Solar Power for trailer.

[freebird413]

I am in the beginning stages of research and i wanted to get some opinions. I want to take a 5x8(ish) enclosed utility trailer and add a solar power system to it for charging electronics and such.

I just want to make sure i got this right. I can go from the solar panels to the charge controller. Then from the charge controller i can connect to battery to the battery connections and i would connect my inverter to the load connections of the controller. Then I want to have the power inverter connected into a breaker box to run a few outlets around the trailer to plug things in at. The solar panels will be attached on top of the trailer.

This is just research and possibly proof of concept by spring. I have some events next year that i plan on using it for. attached is the system i plan on using. i just need to find an inverter that i can hook up to a small breaker box

 

[HarryN]

Close - all of your larger power connections to to the bus bars. (batteries and inverter) ( 1 000 watt type connections )

common examples: https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/4/BusBars_and_Insulators

The solar charge controller is usually a much lower power level, and sometimes it is better to run it through the fuse block that feeds your other small 12 or 24 volt loads in the trailer. (lights, fans, USB, etc )

Fuse Blocks - Blue Sea Systems

Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance

www.bluesea.com

Most inverters that are used in trailers are only the equivalent of a single breaker in your breaker panel, so if you buy one with the correct internal protections then the need to add the 120 vac breaker panel is potentially excessive.

______

If you run an extension cord out to your trailer to run a coffee maker - does it need a 120 vac breaker box in there to be safe? That is essentially what we are talking about.

 

[tghowe]

Have you checked out this Will Prowse video...

DIY Solar Trailer

Build your own off grid solar power system mounted on a trailer

www.mobile-solarpower.com

 

[freebird413]

Have you checked out this Will Prowse video...

DIY Solar Trailer

Build your own off grid solar power system mounted on a trailer

www.mobile-solarpower.com

No i have not. I just started research in the last week or so. Thank you for the information.

 

[freebird413]

Close - all of your larger power connections to to the bus bars. (batteries and inverter) ( 1 000 watt type connections )

common examples: https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/4/BusBars_and_Insulators

The solar charge controller is usually a much lower power level, and sometimes it is better to run it through the fuse block that feeds your other small 12 or 24 volt loads in the trailer. (lights, fans, USB, etc )

Fuse Blocks - Blue Sea Systems

Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance

www.bluesea.com

Most inverters that are used in trailers are only the equivalent of a single breaker in your breaker panel, so if you buy one with the correct internal protections then the need to add the 120 vac breaker panel is potentially excessive.

______

If you run an extension cord out to your trailer to run a coffee maker - does it need a 120 vac breaker box in there to be safe? That is essentially what we are talking about.

It will be much more than just a coffee maker. It will be used to charge electronics, a small jackery, and possibly run some lights (inside at least) or a small radio. I also have other types of batteries that need to be charged from a wall outlet. I was planning on 1 or 2, 2 gang recepticles on each side of the trailer and run a single breaker for each side. Just as added OCP.

 

[freebird413]

Have you checked out this Will Prowse video...

DIY Solar Trailer

Build your own off grid solar power system mounted on a trailer

www.mobile-solarpower.com

yes thank you. someone already suggested that. I was hoping to do it maybe a little bit cheaper. but hey great minds think alike.

 

[freebird413]

I will be much more than just a coffee maker. It will be used to charge electronics, a small jackery, and possibly run some lights (inside at least) or a small radio. I also have other types of batteries that need to be charged from a wall outlet. I was planning on 1 or 2, 2 gang recepticles on each side of the trailer and run a single breaker for each side. Just as added OCP.

I was also thinking maybe a small fridge as well

 

[chrisski]

I will be much more than just a coffee maker. It will be used to charge electronics, a small jackery, and possibly run some lights (inside at least) or a small radio. I also have other types of batteries that need to be charged from a wall outlet. I was planning on 1 or 2, 2 gang recepticles on each side of the trailer and run a single breaker for each side. Just as added OCP.

Really recommend a power audit with a max amount power rewquirement in Kw and total daily power requirement in kWh.

This appears to be 2 kW peak power with a 5-10 kWh requirement.

Being careful not to make coffee when charging the Jacketies could make the Kw requirement less. I shopped for a low wattage coffee maker and found one. Uses 1/3 from the power of some and does not keep a pit hot.

 

[freebird413]

Really recommend a power audit with a max amount power rewquirement in Kw and total daily power requirement in kWh.

This appears to be 2 kW peak power with a 5-10 kWh requirement.

Being careful not to make coffee when charging the Jacketies could make the Kw requirement less. I shopped for a low wattage coffee maker and found one. Uses 1/3 from the power of some and does not keep a pit hot.

There wont be a coffee maker lol. Just a small fridge(maybe), inside lights in the trailer, maybe some outside lights, it will mostly be used for charging things like laptop batteries and other Lipo-type batteries where the charger needs a wall outlet. And everything will be shut off completely when not actively in use. Hence the other reason for a breaker panel.

 

[chrisski]

There wont be a coffee maker lol. Just a small fridge(maybe), inside lights in the trailer, maybe some outside lights, it will mostly be used for charging things like laptop batteries and other Lipo-type batteries where the charger needs a wall outlet. And everything will be shut off completely when not actively in use. Hence the other reason for a breaker panel.

Still a wide range, but does not seem huge. My battery chargers vary widely. My 18 volt Milwaukee pull about 120 watts when charging.

Those AC items should be easy to measure on a kilawatt meter.

For DC meter, I use a DC Clamp meter. or if in my RV, my battery monitor.

Still need to add this all up. An estimate of hours used will help.

A solar build is pretty expensive if not planned right either having to scrap equipment that is not good enough, or over buying.

 

[freebird413]

Still a wide range, but does not seem huge. My battery chargers vary widely. My 18 volt Milwaukee pull about 120 watts when charging.

Those AC items should be easy to measure on a kilawatt meter.

For DC meter, I use a DC Clamp meter. or if in my RV, my battery monitor.

Still need to add this all up. An estimate of hours used will help.

A solar build is pretty expensive if not planned right either having to scrap equipment that is not good enough, or over buying.

I'm more looking to understand the best way to set it up. I can calculate my power needs later once I figure out everything that will be powered and the power budget for it all. I want to understand the basic concepts of how I would connect everything. Then from there I can figure out my needs.

 

[SamDeleted]

I'm more looking to understand the best way to set it up. I can calculate my power needs later once I figure out everything that will be powered and the power budget for it all. I want to understand the basic concepts of how I would connect everything. Then from there I can figure out my needs.

Reading through your post, it sounds like you've already mostly got the idea....


Solar PV > mppt > fuse > battery > fuse > inverter > AC breaker > outlets > AC loads


Yes pretty simple, just don't mix up the pos(+) and the neg(-) ! ?