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Solar Shed with Transfer Switch

EJansen

Solar Enthusiast
Joined
May 3, 2021
Messages
277
Location
Northern, VA
Hi Guys, I haven't been getting much traction in the other posts revolving around my question, so I figured I'd start a new thread here - since maybe it's not a beginner question that belongs in beginners corner. I short, I want to cut my teeth on a smaller project but at some point I want to install Solar for my whole house. I figured I’d start a bit smaller and go with a shed install first to make sure that the requirements are met for passing an inspection, so I sent the attached drawing to my county POCs (in Va) for permitting to ask what I might need to do to pass their inspection. One of the guys responded back, but just said to call him. So I give him a call, and he says that there's several issues with the diagram, but wouldn't tell me what the issues were the only 'example' / hint for one of the issues was in regards to the use of a power cord that plugs the shed into the garage a few feet away (which, I definitely understand that one - if permanent, it should be in conduit and tied in to the house). Regarding his not telling me what the issues were, I'm assuming that it's some sort of conflict of interest? I just thought it was odd, because if I were to pay for the permit and have an on-site inspection, they'd tell me what was wrong / why I failed the inspection, so I don't know why he couldn't say.

This is essentially what I sent to them in an email:

"Attached is a drawing I did for my shed, but wanted to get your thoughts to see what I might be missing. I have some questions based on the diagram that I was hoping you guys could provide me some guidance on:

As you can see in the diagram, I don't show grounds on the panels. To maximize roof space on the shed for where the sun first hits, it'll be one 200w 24v panel that's run in parallel with two 100w 12v panels (different roof pitches would allow for different panels). The single panel would be at the cusp of 50v, if going to 125% of PV Imax, but the two 12v panels in series would be just over. Regardless, my plan is to ground the panels, but where in the diagram would you guys recommend tying the ground in? I was thinking that I should just go straight to the grounding bar in the automatic transfer switch, which ties to the house ground using 6ga wire – which, I know is overkill.

Another Monkey wrench to throw in: The house power would come from an extension cord that's plugged into the back of my garage a few feet away from my shed (which has a 15amp flanged inlet on the back of it).

Would the proposed diagram (with the addition of panel grounds / proof the equipment was UL rated) pass your inspection? The questionable part for me, is when the transfer switch {which only transfers hot and neutral} is on solar (the primary source used). Though both solar and home would connect to the same grounding bar in the transfer switch, which would connect to the homes single grounding point, I think all would be well if the transfer switch was connected to ‘shore power’, but most of the time the shed would be on solar.

So if I had a load that had a fault within the shed, and current then travelled over the ground trying to get back to the source, the GFCI would pop, but if for some reason it didn’t, the Inverter should detect it cut off power and go into an alarm state, but I’m pretty sure the breaker would never pop because of the other two safeties before it. Anyhow, just curious if my setup is ok or not and was looking for feedback (even if it's something else that you see missing in the diagram) for passing an inspection?"


With that said, can anyone on poke holes in the drawing / let me know what what issues they see other than the power cord?

Thanks in Advance,

Eric
 

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dealing with inspectors can be very fustrating some just think its not right because they don't like it wether its code or not .
my advice is to you is get a future generator transfer switch installed and inspected then plug into that that with your shed power ,the shed then becomes like a plug and play appliance (as long as its removable) or have it connected to a critical loads panel then you you shouldn't have to deal with multiple building codes
 
For now, I just ended up buying the Mike Holt training series on PV that's based on the 2020 NEC to learn the ins and outs. I just started watching it yesterday and I'm learning quite a bit and taking notes on anything that's relevant to my project. So far, based on the training videos it looks like I'll need to do the following to fix my setup:

  • Hard wire the inverter to the transfer switch, since it currently just uses a plug, apparently is not ok.
  • Have a DC Disconnect between the charge controller and the batteries.
  • Have a DC Disconnect between the batteries and the inverter.
  • Since I just recently learned that I needed a zoning permit for my shed, upon trying to get that fixed, I learned that apparently isn't supposed to be within 10 ft of my house, so I won't be hard wiring my shed to my garage - I'll just keep the plug flange on the back of the shed and use it / plug into the garage, on an 'as needed' basis.
  • Figure out a grounding solution, since based on the bullet above, I'm not supposed to be permanently connected to the house with a plug, even if that plug is shielded and going into a waterproof outlet box.
    • For this I suppose I could use a grounding rod for the shed and ground to that.
    • If connected to the house grid on that temporary basis, I could switch (figure out some automatic transfer switch or relay option) the ground depending on which power source I use.
Once I get everything figured out, I'll update the drawing and re-post if anyone is interested. It'll probably be far more complicated than any 'solar shed' should be. ;)
 
OK, attached is my updated and wildly over complicated diagram that I think fixes all of the bulleted issues above. If anyone sees any issues, please let me know.


Solar Shed w Alternate Grounds & AC Contactor Powered by Shore.jpg
 
Nice work. But my inspector always looks for 6awg bare copper for ground rod connections.
 
Ah ok, I'll fix that. I also forgot to add the grounds that are on the panels themselves. Once updated, I'll post the latest. Just trying to get everything figured out before I procure the rest of it. As it currently sits, it looks more like the original upload, with the addition of the disconnects that I put in place between the charge controller and battery bank, and the inverter and battery bank

Thanks for the feedback!

Cheers,
Eric
 
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Updated diagram attached. Not sure if people use contactors for grounds, but I don't see why not. Just not sure if I need to get a contactor that's rated for 75 amps, since it's a 6 awg grounding conductor (vs the 63 that I have in the diagram), especially since it's for just for ground strikes and not direct lightning strikes.

Thanks,
Eric
 

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Amazing how complex it can be to get ONE solar powered breaker in your shed ain't it?
 
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The go power ATS only supports # 10 wire as it a 30 amp switch.
The wires in it are a a stranded 10 with a quick connect on all of them.
I have the same ATS and was easy to setup.
 
The go power ATS only supports # 10 wire as it a 30 amp switch.
The wires in it are a a stranded 10 with a quick connect on all of them.
I have the same ATS and was easy to setup.
Ah ok, i'll update the diagram - I made other changes as well, based on the contactors that I ended up buying, which I'll note in the diagram.
 
OK, here's the latest, with updates on pick points, the ATS wire gauge, and part numbers for the contactors that I just bought online.
 

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Amazing how complex it can be to get ONE solar powered breaker in your shed ain't it?
Yeah, the addition of the ATS and my idea of automating the isolation of the ground as well as the bonds didn't help. ;) If I just went without the ATS it would have saved me a lot of time and money - but I'm more doing this for learning purposes, in prep for doing my whole house, so I don't mind.
 
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For anyone interested, I finally got the Eaton Contactors in to integrate into the system based on the drawing, and though it looks good (at least to me) on paper, if I plug in the house power, it pops the GFCI on the house side.

In troubleshooting, if I remove the neutral wire from the second contactor (Blue Normally Closed contactor as depicted in the image, that bonds the ground and neutral, if Power Comes from the inverter), it'll switch back and forth between house power and Solar/Inverter Power. Am I missing something obvious or is it possible that I need to somehow integrate a delay in that contactor?

1628634978263.png
 
Just circling back to see if anyone has any ideas why that GFCI pops / what the issue is? I haven't looked at it in a while since I haven't been able to kill the new 200AH LiFePO4 battery, until recently.

Thanks,
Eric
 
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