Some starter battery wiring questions...

[Gueyog8a7]

1. How or moreso where to install starter battery disconnect? I know the process generally of how from doing leisure battery electrics though with installing a starter battery disconnect I am not sure where you fix it since there is no circuit board under the hood that I could see like with leisure ones? So where would you fix it down? Also is it possible to route it so that you can have the disconnect hidden inside the van cab or living area somewhere rather than under the hood?

I think that would be better than having to fiddle under the hood when wanting to leave the vehicle somewhere and just more practical. So two queries; if fixed under the hood where would it go? If fixed in the van itself how to wire it back out to starter batt and would it be bad it terms of long wires and resistance? I suppose you would have to run the positive all the way into the van and then back out again. Also due to the thickness of the wire required it might cost a bit to run it back and out again?

2. How to disable the van's alarm system, or rather better, could a switch be added, again inside the van to turn it on and off as I pleased, maybe in the same hidden place as the starter battery disconnect perhaps in a locked box? I am living in the van and on more than one occasion the alarm decided to go off, once in the middle of the night when I am turning in bed. Not only is it a nuisance for me but also has been really embarrassing when I am trying to stealth camp and the alarm is suddenly blaring.

I have already put tape over the sensors in the front and I think what is a sensor in the back I have covered over with insulation so I guess it was from moving the suspension or something. So can I make it so I could switch it on only when I want it on? Are these alarms much of a deterrent these days anyway? I have no idea of thieves' habits. If it is no longer worth much then disable completely would be ok with me. If it still has some value as a deterrent I would like to know how to switch it only when I want it on, namely when not at the vehicle, rather than when I am inside.

 

[Bop]

Two types- manual switch (commonly found on commercial equipment and quite cheap)- but needs to be near the battery (usually put in the engine bay right next to the battery)

These are what I used to fit to mining 4wd's- obviously you don't need both, just the starter isolator switch (they are actually both identical switches fitted to a plate and 'pre-wired' in this case- the switch is available by itself though- mining regs in Australia require seperate lockable isolation switches for both the battery and starter motor that can be locked with your 'tag out' lock... but they are available in non lockable versions as well for slightly less)


The other 'looks' like the starter solenoid found in some older cars- but note- they are NOT the same- you need to have one that is rated for 'continuous duty', not the 'intermittent duty' that the starter motor version is rated at- these need power to turn them on- but will again be mounted right next to the battery or starter motor, but can be switched on by a remote mounted dash (or hidden) switch...

Be aware- you should select one rated at the same current capacity as the CCA/CCC rating of your battery (cold cranking current)- these all look very similar, but can range from as little as 200A up to 800A or more...- you need to select the appropriate rating for the capacity of your battery!!!

Wiring one is easy as- disconnect the battery negative lead and remove it... unbolt the starter motor lead at one end or the other, fit that lead to the solenoid on one of the big connection bolts (along with an inline fuse holder), put a new 'short' lead from the other big one back on the connection you removed the original lead from, connect one of the small connections to the battery negative or the bodywork somewhere, then run double insulated 'figure 8' lead- connect one lead to the other half of that fuse holder you added, and the other to the other unused small connection- then run that fig8 cable to wherever you want to put the switch, and at the far end, fit a SPST switch to it (a rocker or toggle automotive switch is fine- if it is on the dash, you might want to use a LED illuminated switch so you know it is on- if so this switch will also need a wire to the chassis somewhere nearby...) and when finished, reconnect the battery negative...

You want a heat resistant, waterproof fuse holder, only needs a small fuse 1A is far more than needed, but you may have to use a 3A or even a 5A- that won't matter..
eg

Fig 8 double insulated automotive cable (rating really isn't that important- as the solenoid draws very little- 5A would do with more than adequate capacity- but you may have trouble finding the smaller double insulated cables so the smallest of whatever you can find easily...

And of course the switch...
or illuminated LED

Be aware- these will use a small amount of power whenever they are turned on (ie battery power to the starter is 'live') which will longterm lead to a shorter time before the starter battery goes 'flat' if left on...
So it is a good habit to 'turn it off' every time- which of course increases the safety of your vehicle when unattended and avoids flattening the battery if left unattended for extended periods...

 

[mikefitz]

starter battery disconnect?

Not a good idea.
If you only need to disable, then a 12v low power switch is the feed to the starter motor solenoid is an easy option.

disable the van's alarm system

Again not a good idea. It won't activate if you don't lock the van fully.

Messing with the vehicle electronics can 'brick' the vehicle unless you have the skill and equipment.

 

[Gueyog8a7]

Two types- manual switch (commonly found on commercial equipment and quite cheap)- but needs to be near the battery (usually put in the engine bay right next to the battery)
for extended periods...

Thanks for the detailed reply.

I have actually been looking at this one. They custom key for security purposes as that is the main reason I would want it. I noticed many have just generic key so anyone could carry them with them although I guess that is pretty unlikely the opportunist theif will carry around a bunch of those keys especially out in the country where I park. I just get paranoid though when then van is out of site even though it is statistically low anything would happen to it. Other reasons previously was to stop the battery being drained when parked for longer periods due to peripheral electrics that I don't use when stationary and living in the but but are still draining battery. I had a flat battery on several occasions when wanting to drive after a week of not going anywhere. Not happened lately though as I have been taking longer drives which is keeping it topped up but that won't always be the case.

Not a good idea.
If you only need to disable, then a 12v low power switch is the feed to the starter motor solenoid is an easy option.

Why not a good idea? I wanted for both increased security when parked and leaving the vehicle but also to stop battery drain for peripheral electrics which are not being used when I am living in there and not driving for longer periods,

Again not a good idea. It won't activate if you don't lock the van fully.

Messing with the vehicle electronics can 'brick' the vehicle unless you have the skill and equipment.

Yea I know the whole point is so it won't activate and won't go off when I am in there and inconvenient times, what is wrong with that? I thought it is just a case of taking out the relevant blade fuse. I have looked under the hood and seen where the fuse box is. I thought it would just be a case of locking up to activate the alarm then removing fuses and putting back until I found the one which will turn off the alarm indicator then leave that one out. Why would that brick the whole electronics? The van could still be locked with the keys manually.

 

[Bop]

100A isn't very much- I really wouldn't advise using that one... that switch's limits would literally be motorbike sized motors or a little 1L motor or similar... You really should choose a switch with the same rating as the CCC rating on the battery... as if the starter is drawing a lot of current (cold morning/low battery or similar) your switch has to handle up to the CCC/CCA rating of the start battery...
Thats the drawback of modern vehicles- the number of parasitic drains has gone way up- some vehicles are literally down to a day or two before they are starting to slow down on their cranking- but in many cases, disconnecting the battery has other consequences, so vehicles 'lose their minds' and have to relearn the characteristics all over again, so your fuel economy and power goes down for a while...

 

[RV8R]

Starter Battery;

None Remote & on “negative” battery terminal are these;





But you are interested in a “solenoid” ?

 

[Bop]

Starter Battery;

None Remote & on “negative” battery terminal are these;

View attachment 197315



But you are interested in a “solenoid” ?

Not a fan of those- seen way too many alternators bricked because of them...
They need to be tightened quite firmly, or they vibrate loose when driving, open-circuiting the alternator and that is bad for them, often leading to having to replace the diode plates and regulator...

 

[RV8R]

Not a fan of those- seen way too many alternators bricked because of them...
They need to be tightened quite firmly, or they vibrate loose when driving, open-circuiting the alternator and that is bad for them, often leading to having to replace the diode plates and regulator...

Like All things ,,, There are Pros & Cons

We have to pick our poisons in this life.

One has to be diligent if using them for sure.

 

[Bop]

Thanks for the detailed reply.

I have actually been looking at this one. They custom key for security purposes as that is the main reason I would want it. I noticed many have just generic key so anyone could carry them with them although I guess that is pretty unlikely the opportunist theif will carry around a bunch of those keys especially out in the country where I park. I just get paranoid though when then van is out of site even though it is statistically low anything would happen to it. Other reasons previously was to stop the battery being drained when parked for longer periods due to peripheral electrics that I don't use when stationary and living in the but but are still draining battery. I had a flat battery on several occasions when wanting to drive after a week of not going anywhere. Not happened lately though as I have been taking longer drives which is keeping it topped up but that won't always be the case.


Why not a good idea? I wanted for both increased security when parked and leaving the vehicle but also to stop battery drain for peripheral electrics which are not being used when I am living in there and not driving for longer periods,


Yea I know the whole point is so it won't activate and won't go off when I am in there and inconvenient times, what is wrong with that? I thought it is just a case of taking out the relevant blade fuse. I have looked under the hood and seen where the fuse box is. I thought it would just be a case of locking up to activate the alarm then removing fuses and putting back until I found the one which will turn off the alarm indicator then leave that one out. Why would that brick the whole electronics? The van could still be locked with the keys manually.

IF the alarm is on its own fuse (rare, but sometimes it is bundled with other things like the radio 'backup memory line' or other permanent power items like the interior dome light that 'aren't important' to have switched off) then rather than 'pulling fuses' you can get plugin 'fuse power taps' like these, meant for adding accessories without cutting wires...

These make adding a switch instead REALLY easy- buy two, pull the fuse out and plug one in in its place, put the fuse back into the left holder in this pic ie as far from the 'blades' as possible plug the other one into the right holder, but with the wire coming out in the opposite direction then again plug a fuse into the holder furthest from the blades-then connect the two wires together with a switch...
If it doesn't work when the switch is turned on, then unplug the whole lot from the fusebox (as a unit) spin it 180 degrees and plug it back in, it will then work

(you 'can' do it other ways but thats often the easiest lol)

 

[RV8R]

IF the alarm is on its own fuse (rare, but sometimes it is bundled with other things like the radio 'backup memory line' or other permanent power items like the interior dome light that 'aren't important' to have switched off) then rather than 'pulling fuses' you can get plugin 'fuse power taps' like these, meant for adding accessories without cutting wires...
View attachment 197356
These make adding a switch instead REALLY easy- buy two, pull the fuse out and plug one in in its place, put the fuse back into the left holder in this pic ie as far from the 'blades' as possible plug the other one into the right holder, but with the wire coming out in the opposite direction then again plug a fuse into the holder furthest from the blades-then connect the two wires together with a switch...
If it doesn't work when the switch is turned on, then unplug the whole lot from the fusebox (as a unit) spin it 180 degrees and plug it back in, it will then work

(you 'can' do it other ways but thats often the easiest lol)

I used that on a remote solenoid ,,, Worked Great;






Luck for me the access hatch to that fuse block is right below the switch I installed

Too Easy

 

[0truck0]

simple as finding the ignition wire that goes to the starter and put a toggle switch on that, or use a relay switch. A good thief can just use a screwdriver at the starter motor and crank it, so you need to make a cover so that cannot be done either.
Safer to use the 800 amp solenoid on the 12v cable going to the starter motor, it will be easy to hide in a van given you cant see anything anyway - this way the starter motor sits with zero volts when parked. It still needs a little toggle switch. I used to use them to send power to a trailer, but not for a starter motor.
The starter motor only runs a second or two because when the motor is running the starter motor and the power feeding it are not needed. You can literally flip your new anti-theft switch back to off as soon as the motor is running.
A seasoned thief will know how to look for your switch, so you gotta be creative.