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Suspicious about my 200ah battery actual capacity

Endervi

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Jan 31, 2024
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Syria
I have a 200ah lead acid tubular battery connected to my solar system. I notice the voltage drop is too much for the load I am putting on the battery at night time.

On 10 amps load the battery voltage went down to 11.5 in under 2 hours.

I saw a chart that doesn't match my battery's performance.

The load is around 100w so according to the manual I should get 24:30 of backup time.

Should i contact the company that installed the system for me to replace my battery or am i not getting something?

The battery is under 2 months old and it has never been below 10.8v.
 
I have a 200ah lead acid tubular battery connected to my solar system. I notice the voltage drop is too much for the load I am putting on the battery at night time.

On 10 amps load the battery voltage went down to 11.5 in under 2 hours.

Check all connections associated with the battery. Loose or poor quality connections will cause excessive voltage drop during discharge and excessive voltage rise on charge - meaning it's less likely the battery gets fully charged.

I saw a chart that doesn't match my battery's performance.

That's an RC test, 25A. Apples to oranges.

The load is around 100w so according to the manual I should get 24:30 of backup time.

Only if you want to thrash the battery out in a year or less. Lead acid shouldn't be discharged below 50%.

Should i contact the company that installed the system for me to replace my battery or am i not getting something?

Maybe.

The battery is under 2 months old and it has never been below 10.8v.

This indicates you are using it pretty agressively.

You haven't indicated how you're charging the battery. Are you 1000% certain that the battery is getting fully charged?

Battery datasheet?
 
That's an RC test, 25A. Apples to oranges.
The point is, my battery's voltage drop Is higher even with less current and bigger capacity.

This indicates you are using it pretty agressively.

You haven't indicated how you're charging the battery. Are you 1000% certain that the battery is getting fully charged?
I never got the battery below 70% of its capacity. How am I using it aggressively?
The 10.8v is the voltage with the load on. Not a resting voltage.

You haven't indicated how you're charging the battery. Are you 1000% certain that the battery is getting fully charged?
My inverter has a built in charge controller. I charge it with 30 amps of current. 14.6 bulk and 13.5 float.

I'm sure it is full because the voltage is around 12.8v when the sun goes down. That may not be enough but I'm quite new to this and maybe you can tell me if I'm wrong.

I applied a 10 amp load for 3:15 hours and the voltage dropped gradually to 11.1v. Now it has been resting for 3 hours and I am measuring 12v

I thought I included the datasheet in the original post but here it is.

Thank you for your time!
 

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  • TDS_AMAZE_AZ5048TT_200Ah.pdf
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The point is, my battery's voltage drop Is higher even with less current and bigger capacity.


I never got the battery below 70% of its capacity. How am I using it aggressively?
This is the only battery you have?
The 10.8v is the voltage with the load on. Not a resting voltage.

10.8V under load might be aggressive. What discharge rate? As discharge rate increases, the available capacity decreases with lead acid. With a 20 hour rate, the capacity is 200Ah. 10 hour rate is 168Ah, 5 hour rate is 140Ah. What this means is just because a battery is rated at 200Ah, if the discharge rate is at the 5 hour rate, then it is rated at 140Ah.

You really should invest in a shunt and only discharge to 50%. You can use resting voltage but that means you need to cut the loads. 12.2V is 50% discharge.

My inverter has a built in charge controller. I charge it with 30 amps of current. 14.6 bulk and 13.5 float.

What are you using for absorption charge? You need to hold 14.6V for some time as charging amps drop.

Your charge rate at 30A is well above the spec sheet bulk charge of 20A and absorption at 10A. High charge rates will cause excessive heat damaging both the plates and possibly electrolyte if battery is sealed and water can not be added. While you might think 30A is fine, it is higher than manufacturer charge rate plus high charge C rates will affect absorption charge and battery capacity.

I'm sure it is full because the voltage is around 12.8v when the sun goes down. That may not be enough but I'm quite new to this and maybe you can tell me if I'm wrong.
Using solar to charge any lead acid battery can be very tricky as absorption charge may not be completed before discharging occurs. Over time, this will lead to excessive sulfation of the plates resulting in lower battery capacity and lower battery lifespan.

I always recommend a split bank/battery system with lead acid on solar where one half of a bank is fully charged thru absorption charge while the other battery is used for loads. Once the absorption charge is completed, then switch loads to the fully charged half of the battery bank and begin charging the other half. This ensures full absorption charge is reached on a regular basis so short term sulfation is reversed before it causes reduced battery capacity and lifespan. If full absorption charge can not be completed in a day before the sun goes down, then you will probably need to add more battery bank capacity in order to power loads off the battery with the loads overnight. Using the battery before absorption completes can result in hard sulfation and the result is reduced battery capacity and lifespan.

I applied a 10 amp load for 3:15 hours and the voltage dropped gradually to 11.1v. Now it has been resting for 3 hours and I am measuring 12v

Then it is discharged more than 50% as 12.2V would be 50% charge.

Looking at the spec sheet, a 10A load would be 120W and duration should be about 15 hours. (go look at Constant Power Discharge Performance chart).

That is if discharge started at 100% SOC.

Buy a shunt. Fully charge the battery. Ensure battery is at 27°C for 24 hours. Apply a 10A load which is the C20 rate. Run discharge to 10.5V under load. It should run 20 hours. Basically C rate is computed by Ah rating divided by 20 (hours) = discharge rate

You will find lead acid will require a learning curve on your part. It may also be the damage done to your battery is irreversible. Chalk that up to an educational experience. If you want to use lead acid, be prepared to educate yourself on the do's and dont's.
 
The point is, my battery's voltage drop Is higher even with less current and bigger capacity.


I never got the battery below 70% of its capacity. How am I using it aggressively?
The 10.8v is the voltage with the load on. Not a resting voltage.

Cut off is 10.5V loaded at a C20 rate.

My inverter has a built in charge controller. I charge it with 30 amps of current. 14.6 bulk and 13.5 float.

30A exceeds the battery rating. It's rated for 20A.

Are you observing 14.6V AT the battery terminals and a tail current of 10A?

I'm sure it is full because the voltage is around 12.8v when the sun goes down. That may not be enough but I'm quite new to this and maybe you can tell me if I'm wrong.

AGM tend to be around 13.0V.

I applied a 10 amp load for 3:15 hours and the voltage dropped gradually to 11.1v. Now it has been resting for 3 hours and I am measuring 12v

Total swag would put the SoC around 40%

How are you measuring voltage and current?
 
This is the only battery you have?

I do have another battery but It is quite old and damaged and is not connected to the system.

10.8V under load might be aggressive. What discharge rate? As discharge rate increases, the available capacity decreases with lead acid. With a 20 hour rate, the capacity is 200Ah. 10 hour rate is 168Ah, 5 hour rate is 140Ah. What this means is just because a battery is rated at 200Ah, if the discharge rate is at the 5 hour rate, then it is rated at 140Ah.

I never discharge it with higher than 10 amps. Typically less than 5.

What are you using for absorption charge? You need to hold 14.6V for some time as charging amps drop.

Your charge rate at 30A is well above the spec sheet bulk charge of 20A and absorption at 10A. High charge rates will cause excessive heat damaging both the plates and possibly electrolyte if battery is sealed and water can not be added. While you might think 30A is fine, it is higher than manufacturer charge rate plus high charge C rates will affect absorption charge and battery capacity.

This is the charging curve of my inverter/charge controller.

20240201_130633.jpg

I know 30 amps is above the recommended charging current. But this is what my company set it to. And is it really enought to justify the state of the battery? Also it has been like I described from day one before xhatging it many times with this current.
 
Cut off is 10.5V loaded at a C20 rate.

30A exceeds the battery rating. It's rated for 20A.

Are you observing 14.6V AT the battery terminals and a tail current of 10A?

AGM tend to be around 13.0V.

Total swag would put the SoC around 40%

How are you measuring voltage and current?

I'm not sure but I don't think tubular batteries use AGM technology.

I'm using the numbers given by my inverter/charge controller. I also have a circuit that measures the voltage.
 
I do have another battery but It is quite old and damaged and is not connected to the system.

With only one lead acid battery, it will be very difficult to have any lifespan using solar to charge it. The problem is not enough daylight to finish absorption charge, this leads to sulfation and resulting in reduced capacity and lifespan. This problem is worse in winter with reduced daylight hours.

LFP batteries on the other hand work perfectly fine with solar, it does not matter if full SOC is achieved, in fact using the capacity between 20% and 90% will possibly extend lifespan. No worries about sulfation with LFP.

I never discharge it with higher than 10 amps. Typically less than 5.

That is good.

This is the charging curve of my inverter/charge controller.

View attachment 192596

I know 30 amps is above the recommended charging current. But this is what my company set it to. And is it really enought to justify the state of the battery? Also it has been like I described from day one before xhatging it many times with this current.
You need to go into settings yourself and copy all those settings concerning charging. It is quite possible there is absorption not enabled or reduced time as the inverter uses a timed absorption charge.

30A is too high and it will affect the Ah capacity just like higher discharge affects Ah capacity. The electrolyte and plates will heat up as full SOC is reached with lead acid. LFP doesn't care, it will take the higher charge C rate.

In your situation, you would be far better served with LFP instead of lead acid. Lead acid still does have a place with solar. It would be where charging and battery storage are below freezing or in a case of solar charged UPS that is used only when grid power goes down occasionally. In the case of daily usage using lead acid, it will need to be a large bank that is split so full absorption charge is reached on a regular basis. Using lead acid with a UPS system, the batteries are not cycled often and thus full absorption charge is reached and 100% SOC held for long periods of time.

Any of the cheap pre manufactured 12V LFP batteries out there would probably serve you much better. The lead acid could be used as a backup battery if needed but will need to be tested to determine remaining capacity. Personally given the information you have provided thus far, I'd find another use for the lead acid battery or sell it.
 
I'm not sure but I don't think tubular batteries use AGM technology.

Some are, but I see now that yours are flooded. Have you checked specific gravity of the cells when full charged?

I'm using the numbers given by my inverter/charge controller. I also have a circuit that measures the voltage.

I don't see that you answered this:

Are you observing 14.6V AT the battery terminals and a tail current of 10A?

Does your system have temperature compensation? When batteries are cold, they must be charged to a higher voltage. When they are warm, they need to be charged to a lower voltage.
 
Some are, but I see now that yours are flooded. Have you checked specific gravity of the cells when full charged?

No I have not.

Are you observing 14.6V AT the battery terminals and a tail current of 10A?

Yes. This is the reading from the inverter.

Does your system have temperature compensation? When batteries are cold, they must be charged to a higher voltage. When they are warm, they need to be charged to a lower voltage.

I don't but the temperature is not that high. About 16c°.

Thank you for your time sir!
 
No I have not.

There's your answer. After attaining float for 2 hours, check SG.

Yes. This is the reading from the inverter.

Not necessarily. The inverter voltage reading is influence by the current. The voltage reading should be taken AT the battery terminals with a voltmeter or other device.


I don't but the temperature is not that high. About 16c°.

Then you should be charging to a higher voltage.

1706810932213.png

That's +0.03V per °C for a 6 cell 12V battery. -9°C should add 0.27V to the absorption voltage or 14.87V in your case.
 
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