T-Power 130AH battery internals.

[mill]

I just disassembled a T-Power 12V 130AH LFP battery and these are the cells in it.
Can anyone please identify these cells?
There are no markings on the cells.
The constant discharge current is 60A max and peak current is 120A.
I wanted to change the bms on it and make one pack out of two batteries.
I did a capacity test on the batteries and they came to about 131AH, so it is genuine i think.
I expected to see prismatic cells.
Thanks in advance for any answers.

 

[MisterSandals]

Can anyone please identify these cells?

What are the measurements, length and diameter? In millimeters.

 

[mill]

What are the measurements, length and diameter? In millimeters.

Hi MisterSandals,

I found the specs for the T-power batteries.
but instead of 88 cells there are 90 Cells.
Each is 6Ah

 

[MisterSandals]

Look like 32700 cells (32mm diameter, 700mm length)

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I did a capacity test on the batteries and they came to about 131AH, so it is genuine i think.

It says 4S22P but i suspect it is 22P4S which would work with 1 BMS (instead of 22)

12.8V nominal
6Ah x 22P = 132Ah

I wanted to change the bms on it and make one pack out of two batteries.

Why not just connect the packs in parallel?

 

[mill]

Why not just connect the packs in parallel?

If i just parallel them, i can only get 120Amps out of them.
When i parallel them with a JBD Bluetooth bms, i can pull 200Amps and i wont have the problem of one emptying before the other so current draw is to high for the one left over.
Also they will be balanced with 2Amp instead of 30 to 50 milliamps.
The bms's in these batteries are not Bluetooth.

 

[MisterSandals]

Just out of curiosity, what do you intend to power with these. The 200A part is eye-popping.
For 200A you will need 2/0 awg wires. I cannot imagine any of the existing connectors or possible nickel cell strips supporting that.

The bms's in these batteries are not Bluetooth.

Bluetooth is mighty sweet.

Also they will be balanced with 2Amp instead of 30 to 50 milliamps.

This is less effective than it sounds.

I recommend just paralleling them in a balanced manner like this (w/o battery #2) and see how they perform before doing a frankenstein hail mary first.

 

[mill]

I have a Renogy 2000Watt inverter and going to get a induction cooker.
Might even get another Bluetooth bms then for battery no2 so i can pull 100Amp from each battery.
The reason of a better bms is so that i can have low temp cut off and can set some better voltages for cut off and max voltage.

 

[MisterSandals]

I have a Renogy 2000Watt inverter and going to get a induction cooker.

If you have the option to change this for a 24V inverter it becomes sane.
Are there any DC induction cooker options? Seems silly to invert to AC to heat a wire/element.

2000W / 10V cutoff / .85 efficiency = 239A
You would be BMS limited. Probably need to fuse at 250A. Limit the wiring to as short as you can make it between battery and inverter.

With a 24V 8S BMS, 125A model would handle your needs. But if you are all set with 12V inverter, it makes going to 24V too spendy.

 

[mill]

Thank you for your help.
Yes it is an 12V inverter so going to 24V will make it expensive.
I did find DC induction cookers on Alibaba so will get one from there.