diy solar

diy solar

Ups with large capacity battery?

What router? Most POE routers have an alternate power method.

My personal challenge is that I have a 48-port POE router that covers access points, cameras, and other stuff... and doing a 48V supply has issues. (Ubiquiti USW-48-Pro) I also have a few other devices that are a little tricky to work with, along with about 400W total average power consumption.
Router is 5v usb powered

GL.iNet GL-AR300M16-Ext Portable Mini Travel Wireless Pocket Router - WiFi Router/Access Point/Extender/WDS | OpenWrt | 2 x Ethernet Ports | OpenVPN/Wireguard VPN | USB 2.0 Port https://a.co/d/gJGgaUM

POE injector is 24v for fixed point wireless antenna that connects to nearby mountaintop radio tower.
 
If I turn off my Growatt while away is there a simple way to monitor the system? I know I could use a GX/raspberry pi and a smart shunt but I'm not sure if that would allow me to see the system while the Growatt is powered down. Would this give me a good idea of what is going on while Growatt is off?
 
If I turn off my Growatt while away is there a simple way to monitor the system? I know I could use a GX/raspberry pi and a smart shunt but I'm not sure if that would allow me to see the system while the Growatt is powered down. Would this give me a good idea of what is going on while Growatt is off?
I would likely not need any backup if I turned off the AIO assuming it will still charge batteries while inverter is off. I would have 1.2 kwh more each day. A good solar day in winter is 3-4kwh a bad day is 0.4-1kwh.

I am told mppt will still function as normal, but haven't tried it yet. If I could monitor the system with a simple device like the raspberry pi or GX.
 
Router is 5v usb powered. Very easy to get that. POE for internet reciever is 24v.

You could go for a 24v battery bank ,

You'd need

2x 12v gel/AGM batteries
24v - 24v DC/DC converter (for POE)
24v gel battery chargers


I could do it over here in the UK for £150 with spare change

 
Regarless of switchtime the internet system is able to turn off and restart

24v-24v converter is needed just to keep output stable?

Yea ,

DC-DC converter stable the voltage, you *could* possibly damage your internet equipment if you don't use one

it's not actually 'needed' , you can just wire direct with a fuse
 
Yea ,

DC-DC converter stable the voltage, you *could* possibly damage your internet equipment if you don't use one

it's not actually 'needed' , you can just wire direct with a fuse
I would definently use a converter just to be safe. They are only $15-$20.

I could add 2 sealed gel batteries and power the internet from that bank as you suggest. I could also just turn off the inverter and use DC from battery bank we have now which would be the simplest and lowest consumption option, but then adds the complexity of adding a monitoring system. Do I only need a raspberry pi and a shunt to see what is happening?
 
I could also just turn off the inverter and use DC from battery bank we have now which would be the simplest and lowest consumption option, but then adds the complexity of adding a monitoring system. Do I only need a raspberry pi and a shunt to see what is happening?

Yes good idea , I guess it's swings and roundabouts



You either have to add to your current system OR make a new small set up , both adds complexity but in different ways



Personally I would make a new separate tiny solar rig with its own independent panels (250w~ ??), battery, wiring , all completely separate from existing system ,, run it off grid off grid ?

this would help add redundancy to your set up
 
Yes good idea , I guess it's swings and roundabouts



You either have to add to your current system OR make a new small set up , both adds complexity but in different ways



Personally I would make a new separate tiny solar rig with its own independent panels (250w~ ??), battery, wiring , all completely separate from existing system ,, run it off grid off grid ?

this would help add redundancy to your set up
Redundancy is great. I could set up another system. I have 3x 350w panasonic modules that I plan on adding with a Midnite Kid 30A scc to our bank. I had hoped to add to the current system because it allows the fast charging bank to be fully charged and then any remaining energy can be diverted to heat water or in inside air.

If I add another standalone system I would have to overpanel to make sure that that system stays charged. This kind of defeats the purpose as I could just add more panels to system and avoid any shutdown.

It seems that putting all power into the bank and then just charging the auxiliary system via AC out of main system is the most efficient use of available energy without much cost. This way the the bank can be charged at high wattage and the auxiliary battery can be charged in a manner that will keep it topped off. Solar input would not be crippled by the low wattage that 12-24v require.
 
Seems like the cheapest thing would be to just add on to the existing system. If your batteries are running down to low cutoff you need more solar or more battery or both.
 
If I add another standalone system I would have to overpanel to make sure that that system stays charged.
I just charge up extra batteries and power stations when ever my main system is full and panels producing excess.

I have two 200Ah LFP for that and several small power stations.

Also several portable panels if needed.

That redundancy helps if a main system component goes down or in the winter low sun days.
 
Seems like the cheapest thing would be to just add on to the existing system. If your batteries are running down to low cutoff you need more solar or more battery or both.
This is true. The catch to this is that 3x almost nothing is still almost nothing so solar can only do so much when our 2000w of PV are collecting so little. If I add on to the system without at least a separate battery in system we will still have to deal with the idle consumption of the inverter eating up battery. If the secondary battery were like a small energy reservoir downstream of the AC system and main bank then once the cutoff setting of the inverter is reached then the secondary battery will be running without the inverter eating into the charge. This is assuming it is all set up for DC to power the loads. If I size the battery large enough then I should be able to keep the internet connection online for many days. I can make it through many crappy days in a row now with the inverter and its idle consuption so this would see the system through all foreseeable weather we may have.
 
So, a separate DC system just to run the internet stuff. Size the battery for however many days you need it to run and use a DC to DC charger from the other system battery to keep the mini system topped off.
 
I just charge up extra batteries and power stations when ever my main system is full and panels producing excess.

I have two 200Ah LFP for that and several small power stations.

Also several portable panels if needed.

That redundancy helps if a main system component goes down or in the winter low sun days.
That is a great way to do it, but we are not there full time so we need any system that we setup to be self sustaining. Being on site the majority of the time would be great and allows for many options to keep things working smoothly, but we can't always be away from home. If we were living there I would just use generator once a week to top off bank. Then I would charge all my batteries, tool batteries, flashlights etc and use them to keep things going. I have used a small portable battery bank inverter and Ryobi tool battery inverters to keep things running while working on main system. Tje method works great, but requires me to be present.
 
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