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Valence U27-12XP 12 volt 138Ah

The main thing I'd add to this conversation is just to point out that Valence U27-12XP batteries are not drop-ins; they have internal monitoring, yes, but no true BMS for HV/LV or hi/lo temperature cutouts... so always keep an eye on them, because they will not shut themselves down before any charge/discharge condition might kill them.
Only the U-Charge RT series batteries are drop-ins. Every other model, as expressly stated by Valence, "requires the Battery Management System", which of course is not available for retail purchase, thus the workarounds that people have developed.

I don't see any issues with the charge rates mentioned above, just keep a really close eye on everything until/unless you have your batteries connected to 3rd-party HV/LV cutouts and (ideally) temperature-sensitive cutouts as well. Otherwise, if that Epever ever decides to throw 16v at your batteries, or any number of other possible conditions, the batteries will be crisped rather quickly because they're not capable of shutting themselves down.

I do concur with the use of a 175A Anderson connector, though - those things are great and on my test bench I have consistently run way more than they're rated for through them without any issue... not that I recommend doing that.
 
The main thing I'd add to this conversation is just to point out that Valence U27-12XP batteries are not drop-ins; they have internal monitoring, yes, but no true BMS for HV/LV or hi/lo temperature cutouts... so always keep an eye on them, because they will not shut themselves down before any charge/discharge condition might kill them.
Only the U-Charge RT series batteries are drop-ins. Every other model, as expressly stated by Valence, "requires the Battery Management System", which of course is not available for retail purchase, thus the workarounds that people have developed.

I don't see any issues with the charge rates mentioned above, just keep a really close eye on everything until/unless you have your batteries connected to 3rd-party HV/LV cutouts and (ideally) temperature-sensitive cutouts as well. Otherwise, if that Epever ever decides to throw 16v at your batteries, or any number of other possible conditions, the batteries will be crisped rather quickly because they're not capable of shutting themselves down.

I do concur with the use of a 175A Anderson connector, though - those things are great and on my test bench I have consistently run way more than they're rated for through them without any issue... not that I recommend doing that.
What float voltage do you recommend? Also, just an FYI for anyone interested. I use my inverted for my battery protection. I have my low voltage cutoff set pretty high so when and if I go below that the only thing pulling from my batteries is my low voltage DC circuits which are mainly my LED lighting. So if I'm out and about and that happens I'll be able to crank up the gen set and recharge.
 
The main thing I'd add to this conversation is just to point out that Valence U27-12XP batteries are not drop-ins; they have internal monitoring, yes, but no true BMS for HV/LV or hi/lo temperature cutouts... so always keep an eye on them, because they will not shut themselves down before any charge/discharge condition might kill them.
Only the U-Charge RT series batteries are drop-ins. Every other model, as expressly stated by Valence, "requires the Battery Management System", which of course is not available for retail purchase, thus the workarounds that people have developed.

I don't see any issues with the charge rates mentioned above, just keep a really close eye on everything until/unless you have your batteries connected to 3rd-party HV/LV cutouts and (ideally) temperature-sensitive cutouts as well. Otherwise, if that Epever ever decides to throw 16v at your batteries, or any number of other possible conditions, the batteries will be crisped rather quickly because they're not capable of shutting themselves down.

I do concur with the use of a 175A Anderson connector, though - those things are great and on my test bench I have consistently run way more than they're rated for through them without any issue... not that I recommend doing that.

My EP Ever has a temperature probe that I have routed into the battery box. I'm not sure how accurate or effective it actually is but I'm in San Diego and we don't typically have freezing temperatures although I will be camping in the Sierras on occasion. Any recommendations on an inexpensive BMS? I feel like I'm going down a rabbit hole with the expenditures with lithium but the AGM batteries I just removed were bought used and I think one of the two batteries had sulfated at one point because I lost power completely to my 12v system. Didn't have a multimeter with me at the time but the EP Ever was showing around 5-6v on my last trip.
 
What float voltage do you recommend? Also, just an FYI for anyone interested. I use my inverted for my battery protection. I have my low voltage cutoff set pretty high so when and if I go below that the only thing pulling from my batteries is my low voltage DC circuits which are mainly my LED lighting. So if I'm out and about and that happens I'll be able to crank up the gen set and recharge.
Unfortunately, we do not deal with these batteries (strictly Victron and Battle Born when it comes to batteries) so I can't offer any meaningful advice re float settings for them.

@WinnebagoMan -similar to my answer above- we only deal with Tier-1 components which -generally speaking- either have their own BMS built-in like BBs, or have dedicated BMS systems that work with them, like Victron, so I am unable to recommend any 3rd-party BMS systems. I know plenty of others here have experience with those systems, though, so I'm sure someone else will have some good recommendations for you!
 
Just installed my Valence BMS from Muller Industries on my U27 install of 3PS4.

Works like a champ and has contactor cut-out functionality. 7D3C4CCE-F65A-483A-A9CE-A42FB7D765A8.jpeg
 
FYI, new product on market, a BMS for the Valence U27-12XP batteries Much less cost that Valence (hard to find) units and can program yourself easily. Tradeoffs, less overall features, but will probably handle 80% of users out there. https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/valence-battery-bms.html
I ordered one today. Will report back when I get to take it for a drive.
Adamant- Can't wait to see if this works. I ordered 4 of the batteries. I ordered the vectron multiplex 3000 inverter as well so I'm hoping via some means or settings I can protect the batteries.
 
I have a pair of u27-12xp black valence batteries and i cannot get them to connect to the software for love nor money, what can I be doing wrong ? the software seems to be talking to my usb adaptor through the correct com port but the software keeps reporting no battery found !!
 
Is ebay the best place to purchase Valence u27-12xp batteries or are there other sources.
 
St. Louis, MO
Then I believe eBay may be your best option. I would also do some online research into local EV shops, since they tend to have extraneous supplies of these Valence batteries, harvested from old electric delivery vans.
 
Just bought 2 of these batteries and now starting to think I bit of too much to chew!

Im trying to figure out how I can safely run these in my van. I bought the connectors to see them on my computer. A battery protect will take care of HV/LV put what do I do about being in High/Low temperatures?
 
Just bought 2 of these batteries and now starting to think I bit of too much to chew!

Im trying to figure out how I can safely run these in my van. I bought the connectors to see them on my computer. A battery protect will take care of HV/LV put what do I do about being in High/Low temperatures?

I planned on handling this with the charger/inverter...now looking at the Samlex, and it has an rj-45 jack for the included temperature sensor, but I haven't gotten far enough yet to see how programmable it is.

BTW, re-reading the section describing the temp sensor, Samlex manual says this: "Charging voltages of Lithium Ion Battery are not affected by temperature and hence, Battery Temperature Sensor Model EVO-BCTS is NOT required to be used when Lithium Ion batteries are used. The RJ-45 Jack (6, Fig 2.1) can be used to feed control signals from certain Lithium Ion Battery Management Systems (BMS) that may have capability of enabling / disabling “Stop Charging” or “Stop Inverting” control signals for inverter chargers."

Maybe that's why I haven't gotten to section 5.5 yet.
 
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I planned on handling this with the charger/inverter...now looking at the Samlex, and it has an rj-45 jack for the included temperature sensor, but I haven't gotten far enough yet to see how programmable it is.

BTW, re-reading the section describing the temp sensor, Samlex manual says this: "Charging voltages of Lithium Ion Battery are not affected by temperature and hence, Battery Temperature Sensor Model EVO-BCTS is NOT required to be used when Lithium Ion batteries are used. The RJ-45 Jack (6, Fig 2.1) can be used to feed control signals from certain Lithium Ion Battery Management Systems (BMS) that may have capability of enabling / disabling “Stop Charging” or “Stop Inverting” control signals for inverter chargers."

Maybe that's why I haven't gotten to section 5.5 yet.

The key phrase with the Samlex is the charging OR inverting. I was seriously considering it til I discovered you can only do one or the other .... not both.
 
That’s interesting on the temperature charging lithium because thats my main worry with using them in a travel van.

The key phrase with the Samlex is the charging OR inverting. I was seriously considering it til I discovered you can only do one or the other .... not both.

Huh, did not realize that. What would be the purpose of that?
 
Huh, did not realize that. What would be the purpose of that?
I overlooked that for quite a while but when I was trying to figure out the wiring details I couldn't see how to do both .... sent them an email and they verified it.
They did say they are "working" on being able to do both.
 
I overlooked that for quite a while but when I was trying to figure out the wiring details I couldn't see how to do both .... sent them an email and they verified it.
They did say they are "working" on being able to do both.
Damn. Guess I can stop reading their voluminous manual...they spent a fortune writing that thing, I felt like I was near earning a phd.
 
The epever mppt that Will recommends has the temperature sensor, but is it just for telling you on the monitor or does it actually adjust or disconnect if it gets to cold or hot?
 
The epever mppt that Will recommends has the temperature sensor, but is it just for telling you on the monitor or does it actually adjust or disconnect if it gets to cold or hot?

The AN model says this: "Battery Overheating The controller can detect the battery temperature through an external temperature sensor. The controller stops working when its temperature exceeds 65 °C and begins working when its temperature is below 55 °C. Lithium Battery Low Temperature When the temperature detected by the optional temperature sensor is lower than the Low Temperature Protection Threshold(LTPT), the controller will stop charging and discharging automatically. When the detected temperature is higher than the LTPT, the controller will be working automatically (The LTPT is 0 °C by default and can be set within the range of 10 ~ -40 °C)."

and the BN manual states: " Battery Overheating The controller detect the battery temperature through the external temperature sensor. If the battery temperature exceeds 65ºC, the controller will automatically start the overheating protection to stop working and recover below 50 ºC."
 
The key phrase with the Samlex is the charging OR inverting. I was seriously considering it til I discovered you can only do one or the other .... not both.

I am trying to understand this. So you are saying when the inverter is connected to the grid it will not charge the batteries and supply AC power at the same time? Not doubting you, nor what Samlex told you. I find this extremely odd considering this is supposed to be a premier inverter.
 
Damn. Guess I can stop reading their voluminous manual...they spent a fortune writing that thing, I felt like I was near earning a phd.
I did really like the Samlex .... but decided I am just going to go with separate controller for charge and inverter.
 
I am trying to understand this. So you are saying when the inverter is connected to the grid it will not charge the batteries and supply AC power at the same time? Not doubting you, nor what Samlex told you. I find this extremely odd considering this is supposed to be a premier inverter.
No .... we are talking about being able to wire remote control via the temp sensor port.
 

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