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WaterFurnace Series 7 – Total Cost Breakdown

AlyGreen

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Nov 20, 2023
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Location
PA
Total Cost Breakdown
This post provides the complete all-in costs for installing a WaterFurnace Series 7 ground source heat pump (closed loop) in 2021 for our home with full spreadsheet.

Hoping this information helps someone considering a similar project, or just comparing ground versus air-source heat pump costs & ROI. Air-source will always give quicker ROI, speed and ease of installation but ground source gives higher efficiency and longer term lower running costs.

Geothermal First

We did geothermal first so we could accurately size our planned for future solar system to power everything in the house.

Google Drive Attachments

Geothermal Project Total Cost Spreadsheet
Quarter Wavelength Absorption (sound analysis)

Google Sheets will display the above spreadsheets but there are some "N/A errors" with CONCAT functions. If you download the spreadsheets and view them in Microsoft Excel these errors go away and things display correctly. Everything is virus scanned and clean.

Soundbox Photos
Vibration Damping
Low Temperature 2F (-17C)

Return on Investment

The return was calculated over 30 years as we intend to retire in our current home.

Around a 20-year return period – in our case, given all work done outside of the geothermal installation itself. The return period should be much shorter without this additional work.

The quickest return on investment will always be with an air-source geothermal unit, over ground source, as you don’t have the well drilling costs. That said, having had an air-source heat pump in our last home, we wanted ground-source for higher efficiency, offsetting the higher cost. We see the investment as paying off in the long term and helping the environment, a combined goal of ours.

Costs

The attached cost spreadsheet for our WaterFurnace Series 7, ground source (closed loop) geothermal system, gives the actual costs for anyone who is interested in exploring this option.

The cost figures are as of 2021, in eastern Pennsylvania USA, with federal tax rebates (26%). Currently in 2024 there is a federal tax rebate (30%). There may be additional local state incentives or rebates, or in other countries if you live abroad. Costs in your area will likely vary from our numbers but it gives a ballpark as of 2021.

$65,205 – Total upfront costs, before tax rebates.

$53,287 – Total adjusted cost, after tax rebates.

$40,642 – Adjusted cost, (removing non-essential items), after tax rebates.
If you remove the new generator, water treatment and furnace sound proofing (likely unnecessary for most people).

Savings

$2,064 – Annual savings on average, compared to our oil furnace.

$2,786 – Annual savings on average, when oil prices are high.

The savings vary with the oil and electricity rate changes over time.

In the future, once we have solar installed, covering nearly all power needs, then the savings will be even greater with the removal of nearly all electrical costs. Granted you must pay off your solar system investment, but once paid off, then heating and cooling via electricity is essentially free at that point.

Geothermal and solar investments are the long-term factors determining savings over time.

You can look at solar as a pre-payment for future electrical costs. After a certain time, you start winning/saving over what you otherwise would have paid. Geothermal costs less to run than oil. We are acting in both our financial and environmental interests combined. Helping to save the planet’s environment is priceless for everyone.

Lessons Learned
  1. Do not position your unit in the basement, directly under your bedroom, where our oil furnace used to be. The noise and vibration kept us awake till we sorted it out. The sound is constantly variable, being a super-efficient unit, ramping up and down, but when it’s directly under your bedroom it annoys. I analyzed the sound frequencies, then self-designed and built a sound box around the unit giving a 95% reduction in sound transmission so we could sleep peacefully.

  2. Be sure to vibration isolate the furnace from the floor mounts, and vibration isolate the ground loop pipes where they attach to the ceiling/floor joists of the room above, to reduce vibration being passed into the house structure. This was not done by our installer, and we had to retrofit these solutions ourselves after researching the issue.

  3. The geothermal system inherited the oil furnace single zone air duct system. You need to put in at least two zones for a two-floor home (our home is Cape Cod style) as the upper floor temperature is either too hot or too cold with just the single zone we installed. This was true previously with the oil heating’s single zone setup. The Series 7 can handle multiple zones, a reason we went for this unit over the Series 5, to be able to add future zones when we can afford to do so.

  4. Looking to put in three zones in the future, redoing all our ductwork, (1) master bedroom, (2) downstairs (3) upstairs. We decided we need a third zone for the master bedroom, to allow us to better control (lower) nighttime temperatures without having to lower the whole house’s temperatures. Geothermal units run most efficiently when maintaining a temperature, rather than doing large temperature swings. Isolating the master bedroom allows us to just cool/heat a smaller space with larger temperature swings. This is less strain on the system and less cost for a lower night sleeping temperature.

  5. Ductwork sized for the existing oil furnace may not be appropriately sized for a geothermal system. The Manual J calculation said the existing ductwork had enough capacity, but the more powerful fan and less hot furnace exit air temperatures 80/90F (geothermal) rather than 120F (oil) meant the duct air flow was sped up to achieve the needed air exchanges to keep setpoint room temperature. This causes a louder roaring sound in the registers than what we had with oil heat. By increasing the number of supply/return registers, and increasing the size (air flow volume) of the ductwork should slow down the speed of air flow in the future once the duct rebuild is completed.

  6. If using a well, you may need to add a water treatment system to stop mineral build up in the hot water, secondary loop, running to the desuperheater. This loop gets fed by our regular well water. Our plumber also recommended an iron breaker unit as well as a scale prep (demineralization through suspension, not using salt), both of which we installed. If you already have water treatment systems in place you likely won’t need these but be aware they were recommended.

  7. The water in the closed ground closed loop was pretreated one time by the installer, so as not to clog up the furnace heat exchanger and have anti-freeze properties in the ground. This should not need further treatment unless there is a problem over time.

  8. Insulate the house as much as possible before any installation to lower the size unit needed to power your home. Reducing the well size, lowers the drilling cost.

  9. Had to replace our Honda EU7000is (7kW) portable generator with a whole home Briggs & Stratton 20kW generator to have sufficient amperage to run the geothermal unit in a power out situation, plus cover built-in emergency strip heat if the compressor ever died.

  10. Allow money for soil grading and reseeding the lawn after the drilling rig has finished. Our intention was to do this work ourselves but with the heavy shale, rock-filled soil we had to purchase new topsoil and employed a landscape company to take care of the heavy work with machinery.

  11. We took the opportunity of installing underground roof drainage at the same time as the soil work to help with the increased rainfall in our area, causing flooding in our basement. We also put in a sump pump and may add a second as backup. These costs were not directly related to the installation but made sense during the groundwork phase, hooking sump pump in in-ground drainage.

  12. Our well driller recommended drilling an extra ton of well capacity to reduce/remove the need for calling supplemental heat. This was a wise choice as we don’t need it even at 2F (-17C) temperatures, the lowest it has dropped so far for us in the last two years. If you want rapid temperature gains (more than 2F degrees at a time) then supplemental heat will kick in, to speed things up. We program our unit to gradually increase temperature from night to daytime to avoid kicking supplemental heat on in the mornings.

  13. The unit is super-efficient and so far, reliable after an expansion valve replacement under warranty, right at the beginning, the only repair needed to date.

  14. The furnace controls the humidifier unit. The built-in control panel humidity sensor is a little off in its readings, but you just increase the setting a little to compensate which kicks on the whole home humidifier unit, installed in the return ductwork by the furnace.
Hope the cost spreadsheet helps someone considering ground source geothermal with a solar system. Having the details and unplanned for possible costs upfront, I know would have really helped us with our budgeting.

Happy to answer any questions people have on the project.

Alastair
 
Here are our average monthly loads over the last 24 months with the heat pump installed and prior figures.

1704581758671.png
 
Nice but way too expensive. Just get a bunch of reversible mini splits and save the furnace for those really cold days.
 
Thanks @AlyGreen, that is a very comprehensive write up on your new Geo system. The costs do blow me away, but you are in PA, and you had it professionally done. The information given will undoubtedly help many folks.

Twelve years ago I did a renovation on a 22 year old lake house camp. We were retiring, and decided to move to the lake permanently. The original cabin was made of solid 6" thick machined spruce logs (double tongue and groove). I added an addition that doubled the size of the house to about 2400sf, and used ICF for the walls on the addition. While I was at it, I installed a 2 Ton water source Geo system with no emergency strip heating. We have always used a wood stove for the majority of our heating, and as we are located in north Louisisana, we don't have the heating requirements that you do in PA. The Geo unit does have a desuperheater that preheats our water in an 80 gal SS water heater. The water from this tank goes into another 80 gal water heater which is normally heated by two 3' x 10' solar hot water 'panels' on the roof. We originally had 2 solar arrays on the roof for a total of 5.6kw. I have since added a third array of 4.8kw. I built the house and everything else, so I was able to save a ton of money. Since the addition, we have averaged about 800 kwh's a month usage (total electric). With the addition of the 3rd array, I should be net zero on the energy usage, but still have to pay the grid about $26/month, for minimum billing and a hurricane damage restoration charge.

The geothermal and solar hot water heating have been a great investment for us, with the solar pv being the icing on the cake.

Good luck with your upcoming solar install!
 
Expensive is in thw eye of the homeowner.

Minisplits have around a 10year life, have little filtration abilities, and take up wall space...

There is a LOT of benefits to ground loop geothermal equipment.
I have several customers that use them, and there is no comparison to a minisplit...

That said, there are several brands of ECM compressor equipped heat pumps capable of giving ground loop equipment a run for the money.

Geothermal is still far superior for steady uninterrupted heating.
 
Nice but way too expensive. Just get a bunch of reversible mini splits and save the furnace for those really cold days.
I respect the alternate choice of mini splits, they certainly are a good option, technically and financially. The information is offered for those wishing to consider the geothermal path, I wanted to provide some real life figures to help people out.

Alastair
 
Thanks @AlyGreen, that is a very comprehensive write up on your new Geo system. The costs do blow me away, but you are in PA, and you had it professionally done. The information given will undoubtedly help many folks.

Twelve years ago I did a renovation on a 22 year old lake house camp. We were retiring, and decided to move to the lake permanently. The original cabin was made of solid 6" thick machined spruce logs (double tongue and groove). I added an addition that doubled the size of the house to about 2400sf, and used ICF for the walls on the addition. While I was at it, I installed a 2 Ton water source Geo system with no emergency strip heating. We have always used a wood stove for the majority of our heating, and as we are located in north Louisisana, we don't have the heating requirements that you do in PA. The Geo unit does have a desuperheater that preheats our water in an 80 gal SS water heater. The water from this tank goes into another 80 gal water heater which is normally heated by two 3' x 10' solar hot water 'panels' on the roof. We originally had 2 solar arrays on the roof for a total of 5.6kw. I have since added a third array of 4.8kw. I built the house and everything else, so I was able to save a ton of money. Since the addition, we have averaged about 800 kwh's a month usage (total electric). With the addition of the 3rd array, I should be net zero on the energy usage, but still have to pay the grid about $26/month, for minimum billing and a hurricane damage restoration charge.

The geothermal and solar hot water heating have been a great investment for us, with the solar pv being the icing on the cake.

Good luck with your upcoming solar install!
Thanks for the feedback and sharing your own cabin build and geo + solar system setup, really great to hear what other people are doing.

Alastair
 
Minisplits have around a 10year life, have little filtration abilities, and take up wall space...
How long do you think all aluminum coil will last (unit has 8 year warranty)?
alu-coil.JPG
For the price difference you could probably finance 2 - 3 mini split total replacements.
 
Nice but way too expensive. Just get a bunch of reversible mini splits and save the furnace for those really cold days.
OP offered a well thought out detailed description of thier GSHP system. It's a free country and all that but your comment was both unnecessary and offensive.
 
Thought to add an additional spreadhsheet analysis I did for the generator install part of the project, showing an electrical analysis of all appliances in the home (for sizing of generator) and a spreadsheet showing an analysis of the wattage draw of the WaterFurnace Series 7 unit at different heating/fan speeds. Heating takes more power than cooling so this is the higher loading of the unit.

Electrical Audit
Wattage Draw analysis - Series 7
 
We put in a 4 ton ground loop system about 6 years ago. I got estimates at first to have it installed, was in the $30K range.
Did some research and decided to do it myself. Rented a digger, made my own coiled loops, and purchased a Climatemaster furnace.
All said and done, was in under $15K.
 
We put in a 4 ton ground loop system about 6 years ago. I got estimates at first to have it installed, was in the $30K range.
Did some research and decided to do it myself. Rented a digger, made my own coiled loops, and purchased a Climatemaster furnace.
All said and done, was in under $15K.
Fantastic, well done. I lack the machinary and mechanical skills so paid the professionals.

We couldn't do a trench system. Our installer advised that other people in our area who had installed using trenches, suffered shale damage to the coils after a couple of seasons. He recommended vertical well drilling due to the shale rock conditions and his experience over 500+ systems in the area that vertical drilling with bentonite grout mix surrounding the ground loop did not have the same problems as trenching.
 
Thanks for sharing!

In 2011 we installed a 2 Ton closed loop system. They drilled 2 x 150' ft wells that they grouted in bentonite.

$22k before incentives.
ARRA money kicked in $10k
After the federal tax credit on the full 22k and a little bit from our local COOP we were in it for less the $4K and I didn't lift a finger.

No supplemental strips and have never been close to needing them. We've see a handful of sub zero days per winter and it just lumbers along just fine. Even did fine when we had a few days approaching -20F. I monitor the ground loop temps and I don't think I've seen them under 55f.

I wish there was way to tie it into my radiant in floor system. We use wood boiler for that.

We are very high mass house with passive solar so generally speaking we only need supplemental heat after a few cloudy days.
 
I wouldn't have minded wells, but that's not a DIY option. I started with trenching, but it collapsed and I decided I didn't want to be in a trench when it collapsed more. So, I dug a huge hole, would have made a nice pond. Mostly clay and rock.
 
Thanks for sharing!

In 2011 we installed a 2 Ton closed loop system. They drilled 2 x 150' ft wells that they grouted in bentonite.

$22k before incentives.
ARRA money kicked in $10k
After the federal tax credit on the full 22k and a little bit from our local COOP we were in it for less the $4K and I didn't lift a finger.

No supplemental strips and have never been close to needing them. We've see a handful of sub zero days per winter and it just lumbers along just fine. Even did fine when we had a few days approaching -20F. I monitor the ground loop temps and I don't think I've seen them under 55f.

I wish there was way to tie it into my radiant in floor system. We use wood boiler for that.

We are very high mass house with passive solar so generally speaking we only need supplemental heat after a few cloudy days.
WaterFurnace does do a combo unit that can handle radient floors, not that it helps your install unfortunately but just a general FYI for anyone else reading.

https://www.waterfurnace.com/residential/products/geothermal-heat-pumps/synergy3d
 
Thanks for sharing!

In 2011 we installed a 2 Ton closed loop system. They drilled 2 x 150' ft wells that they grouted in bentonite.

$22k before incentives.
ARRA money kicked in $10k
After the federal tax credit on the full 22k and a little bit from our local COOP we were in it for less the $4K and I didn't lift a finger.

No supplemental strips and have never been close to needing them. We've see a handful of sub zero days per winter and it just lumbers along just fine. Even did fine when we had a few days approaching -20F. I monitor the ground loop temps and I don't think I've seen them under 55f.

I wish there was way to tie it into my radiant in floor system. We use wood boiler for that.

We are very high mass house with passive solar so generally speaking we only need supplemental heat after a few cloudy days.
I thought about going radiant, Climatemaster has a version for that. But I wanted air-conditioning, and I believe at the time it was either or. Ended up doing radiant just in my master bath fed from my heat pump water heater.
 
I was a geothermal contractor for 25 years. There's no better way to heat cool and provide hot water to a home.
Nice write up on your experience.
Thanks, we love our geothermal system and it was step one of trying to go all electric in our home so we could then cover all power, heating and cooling needs via solar. This sets us up for retirement in the home to reduce our long-term expenses once we transition to a relatively fixed income from pension savings.

Approximately:
$2,000 - Savings a year heating & cooling with goethermal (over oil, our previous system)
$2,500 - Savings a year on electric (solar covers nearly all)

Knocks $4,500 off our annual budget which really helps us.

For now we have 1:1 net metering in Pennsylvania but I am thinking a battery is a wise choice regardless so we can self-consume any excess power should the net metering rate become less equitable, meaning they pay us less than they charge us for kWh.

We do still need to be grid tied, even with a 19kW solar system that we hope to install, as in the winter the power draw from geothermal is higher than solar production. 1:1 net metering will bank our excess in the better months and should net zero us out in the winter months. That's the hope anyway.
 
WaterFurnace does do a combo unit that can handle radient floors, not that it helps your install unfortunately but just a general FYI for anyone else reading.

https://www.waterfurnace.com/residential/products/geothermal-heat-pumps/synergy3d
Right, if there was any GSHP's that could provide enough BTU's for hydronic heating in 2011 I couldn't find it. Here in southern MO I need to worry more about summer cooling it wasn't the biggest loss.

While it's not GSHP, this outside mounted Air to water heat pump would make a lot of sense for some applications. In fact, I was really thinking about one.

But since I take a few hundred dollars of net metering credits into winter I went with an electric water heater. As insane as it sounds it was the most logical choice for me since I have the wood boiler that will cover 100% of the heat and DHW needs when I care to build a fire. I converted a regular water heater so both elements would run at the same time and ended up with a low cost 11kW electric boiler. It does love the kWh though!
 
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