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WaterFurnace Series 7 - Power Draw on Sol-Ark 15K-2P

AlyGreen

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Nov 20, 2023
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37
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PA
Hi Everyone,
Some power load data to share, from monitoring our WaterFurnace Series 7 ground source geothermal unit in cold weather here in Pennsylvania Appalachian Mountains (elevation 669 feet).

Wanted to figure out the power draw that was going to be applied to a Sol-Ark 15K-2P, that I am considering installing. The double-pole breakers used by the geothermal unit, should split the load evenly across both busbar legs (L1, L2), so not imbalance the inverter.

Trying to work out the maximum combined load from the (compressor, fan, loop pump) throughout the range of heating loads/speeds in our 2,100 sqft home. The unit speeds are constantly variable which gives the greatest efficiency. Each home will be unique in its Manual J calculation, so power draw on their geothermal unit, but I thought sharing this data might help someone else with ballpark figures if they are considering this setup.

Heating gives the greatest loads, cooling much less, so the spreadsheet just shows the heating power draw monitoring (at this time). This does not take into account our backup resistive heating elements 15kW that can assist in an emergency, or if you wish to bump the temperature up rapidly. Typically with geothermal for maximum efficiency, you leave the temperatures alone or program the controller to increase in 1-2F degree increments (in the mornings, if you like to sleep in cooler temperatures) to avoid engaging the resistive heat.

Geothermal works best maintaining a constant temperature than rapidly increasing temperatures over a wide range, that's when you need to engage the backup heat source (in our case resistive heat elements).

For resistive heat you need to be grid/generator tied, to make up the difference between inverter output and load, otherwise it will trip a single Sol-Ark 15K-2P inverter. You could do it with parallel units and not trip the inverters, but still much better to be grid tied otherwise you will rapidly drain any battery.

99.5% of the time resistive heat is not called in our home, so these figures are the true load on the inverter. Our unit can go down to 4F (-15.56 C) and still maintain temperature without a problem. That's as low as we have experienced in the last two years of our install.

1705498055320.png
(update 1/17/2024 - New figures for 12/10 heat and draw breakdown)

Spreadsheet: WaterFurnace Power Draw

Hoping this is helpful to someone.
Alastair
 
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Hi Everyone,
Some power load data to share, from monitoring our WaterFurnace Series 7 ground source geothermal unit in cold weather here in Pennsylvania Appalachian Mountains (elevation 669 feet).

Wanted to figure out the power draw that was going to be applied to a Sol-Ark 15K-2P, that I am considering installing. The double-pole breakers used by the geothermal unit, should split the load evenly across both busbar legs (L1, L2), so not imbalance the inverter.

Trying to work out the maximum combined load from the (compressor, fan, loop pump) throughout the range of heating loads/speeds in our 2,100 sqft home. The unit speeds are constantly variable which gives the greatest efficiency. Each home will be unique in its Manual J calculation, so power draw on their geothermal unit, but I thought sharing this data might help someone else with ballpark figures if they are considering this setup.

Heating gives the greatest loads, cooling much less, so the spreadsheet just shows the heating power draw monitoring (at this time). This does not take into account our backup resistive heating elements 15kW that can assist in an emergency, or if you wish to bump the temperature up rapidly. Typically with geothermal for maximum efficiency, you leave the temperatures alone or program the controller to increase in 1-2F degree increments (in the mornings, if you like to sleep in cooler temperatures) to avoid engaging the resistive heat.

Geothermal works best maintaining a constant temperature than rapidly increasing temperatures over a wide range, that's when you need to engage the backup heat source (in our case resistive heat elements).

For resistive heat you need to be grid/generator tied, to make up the difference between inverter output and load, otherwise it will trip a single Sol-Ark 15K-2P inverter. You could do it with parallel units and not trip the inverters, but still much better to be grid tied otherwise you will rapidly drain any battery.

99.5% of the time resistive heat is not called in our home, so these figures are the true load on the inverter. Our unit can go down to 4F (-15.56 C) and still maintain temperature without a problem. That's as low as we have experienced in the last two years of our install.

View attachment 186219

Hoping this is helpful to someone.
Alastair
That is good information. I wonder how many amps it takes to get it started?
 
@green mountain boys ,

The WaterFurnace Series 7 has soft-start built in so the LRA (Locked Rotor Amp) in-rush is very gentle. Not having a clamp meter at the moment, I have not measured the startup amperage, apologies. To measure that I think I would need to clamp at the breaker panel as to get to the wiring inside the unit, you need to turn off then swing open the computer/electronics bay door. Off and open you could not clamp read at the unit itself.

With geothermal units, they are designed to run near continuously for maximum efficiency, ramping up and down as needed. The unit does turn off when the set temperature is reached and maintained for a while, without loss (measured in 0.1 degree increments) but most of the time the unit is running on low just to maintain temperature.

Just checked out the manual for our unit, it does depend on the model.
https://www.waterfurnace.com/literature/7series/SC2705AN.pdf

Looks like around 10-12 amps.

1704129784211.png
 
@green mountain boys ,

The WaterFurnace Series 7 has soft-start built in so the LRA (Locked Rotor Amp) in-rush is very gentle. Not having a clamp meter at the moment, I have not measured the startup amperage, apologies. To measure that I think I would need to clamp at the breaker panel as to get to the wiring inside the unit, you need to turn off then swing open the computer/electronics bay door. Off and open you could not clamp read at the unit itself.

With geothermal units, they are designed to run near continuously for maximum efficiency, ramping up and down as needed. The unit does turn off when the set temperature is reached and maintained for a while, without loss (measured in 0.1 degree increments) but most of the time the unit is running on low just to maintain temperature.

Just checked out the manual for our unit, it does depend on the model.
https://www.waterfurnace.com/literature/7series/SC2705AN.pdf

Looks like around 10-12 amps.

View attachment 186228
My parents installed a ground source geothermal unit in their home. Not sure of the brand or the specs. I have wondered what it would take to get it to run on backup power when the grid is down. They often lose grid power, sometimes for many days. I had sort of guessed it would need 50amps. I like having a solid backup plan. They are not so concerned as I.
 
@green mountain boys

I agree, my thoughts exactly on a solid backup plan.

Right now I have the WaterFurnace Series 7 installed with a 20kW propane backup generator using an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). This allows me, in an emergency, to run the geothermal full 15kW resistive heat. If the geothermal compressor, fan or loop pump ever went down, the emergency backup heat is covered, plus 5kW capacity for the house, which is more than enough to run everything else.

Speaking with Sol-Ark tech support we discussed the best wiring setup.

They suggested I keep the existing ATS so either the grid or generator can be landed on the GRID terminals, and place a bypass switch. This way when the Sol-Ark inveter is fully functional it can bypass feed either the grid or generator, feeding the extra amperage needed by resistive heat, or if ever the Sol-Ark goes down, needs repair or maintenance, the bypass can directly feed the breaker panel with the necessary power, grid or 20kW backup generator.

Here is the circuit diagram I photoshopped the bypass switch into their standard diagram, following their wiring advice on where to put the bypass switch.

The only thing you have to watch out for is power loss on the generator due to elevation. Every 1,000 ft up you go Briggs & Stratton said in their manual you lose about 3% power generator so we actually only have around 19.5kW output from our generator at 669 ft elevation.
 

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@green mountain boys

I agree, my thoughts exactly on a solid backup plan.

Right now I have the WaterFurnace Series 7 installed with a 20kW propane backup generator using an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch). This allows me, in an emergency, to run the geothermal full 15kW resistive heat. If the geothermal compressor, fan or loop pump ever went down, the emergency backup heat is covered, plus 5kW capacity for the house, which is more than enough to run everything else.

Speaking with Sol-Ark tech support we discussed the best wiring setup.

They suggested I keep the existing ATS so either the grid or generator can be landed on the GRID terminals, and place a bypass switch. This way when the Sol-Ark inveter is fully functional it can bypass feed either the grid or generator, feeding the extra amperage needed by resistive heat, or if ever the Sol-Ark goes down, needs repair or maintenance, the bypass can directly feed the breaker panel with the necessary power, grid or 20kW backup generator.

Here is the circuit diagram I photoshopped the bypass switch into their standard diagram, following their wiring advice on where to put the bypass switch.

The only thing you have to watch out for is power loss on the generator due to elevation. Every 1,000 ft up you go Briggs & Stratton said in their manual you lose about 3% power generator so we actually only have around 19.5kW output from our generator at 669 ft elevation.
Very nice set up. Thanks for sharing.
 
I am glad if the knowledge helps you or someone else to figure their system out. Knowing the figures helps with planning. Glad to share.

Alastair
 
My parents installed a ground source geothermal unit in their home. Not sure of the brand or the specs. I have wondered what it would take to get it to run on backup power when the grid is down. They often lose grid power, sometimes for many days. I had sort of guessed it would need 50amps. I like having a solid backup plan. They are not so concerned as I.

I've got a ClimateMaster Tranquility 30 (49000 BTU version) that is advertised factory as having a LRA value of 104A. I wouldn't doubt it either, based on how much my house lights flicker as it comes on. I need to get the soft start installed on it, as to try to run it on my diesel generator, and perhaps someday in the future solar batteries.
 
This is good info to see, regarding a geothermal unit, as I was starting to look into it for my particular set up. I'm going to assume that the data presented is for a closed loop system, based on your mentioning of a loop pump.
 
This is good info to see, regarding a geothermal unit, as I was starting to look into it for my particular set up. I'm going to assume that the data presented is for a closed loop system, based on your mentioning of a loop pump.
Yes the WaterFurnace Series 7 is a closed loop ground source unit.

Looking at your ClimateMaster Tranquility 30 unit specifications, it runs as a two stage. Thinking about loads on inverters and batteries then you would have two major wattage and amperage levels to design for. A soft start should really help your initial in-rush amperage draw.

In our old house we had a Carrier air-source 4-ton unit without a soft-start and like you, it dimmed the house lights on initial startup. With a soft start that doesn't happen and would be less stress on an inverter and battery capacity.
 
Yes the WaterFurnace Series 7 is a closed loop ground source unit.

Looking at your ClimateMaster Tranquility 30 unit specifications, it runs as a two stage. Thinking about loads on inverters and batteries then you would have two major wattage and amperage levels to design for. A soft start should really help your initial in-rush amperage draw.

In our old house we had a Carrier air-source 4-ton unit without a soft-start and like you, it dimmed the house lights on initial startup. With a soft start that doesn't happen and would be less stress on an inverter and battery capacity.

Yup, not to mention being an open loop system, everytime it comes on, I'm also kicking on a well pump, it's a really high draw system. It's probably the last thing I would ever put on a battery setup, I was really just researching a soft-start for my diesel generator to be able to run it even.
 
Yup, not to mention being an open loop system, everytime it comes on, I'm also kicking on a well pump, it's a really high draw system. It's probably the last thing I would ever put on a battery setup, I was really just researching a soft-start for my diesel generator to be able to run it even.
That's a challenging problem.

I am not a well pump expert but a quick forum & Google search offers some possible ways to handle the high amperage. Maybe not ways you wish to go but I thought to share the potential workarounds. This topic seems to have a number of discussions in this forum.

Just search for "Well Pump" in the forum.

Possible Ways
Replacing the well pump with a Grundfos which has no startup surge.
Using an in-rush limiter or a magnetic-hydraulic breaker
Soft-starter with a 240V 3-wire (though people debate if a soft-starter will not provide the initial surge needed to start the pump)

Don't rely on any of these as being well researched by myself, I have no experience in matching well pumps to solar, battery or generator systems. Just trying to help. Goodluck.
 
(update 1/17/2024 - New figures for 12/10 heat and draw breakdown)

See first post for updated screenshot and spreadsheet download.

WaterFurnace Power Draw

An example draw breakdown for a single reading, how the power draw is spreadout over the geothermal unit's components

1705498326359.png
 
Just run a Schneider XW Pro, Victron 8KW x2, or a Midnite Rosie instead of a Solark.
 
@NC_hydro thanks for the comment, these are options that I have not researched at this time so would need to do some homework.
 
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