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What it took to remove delaminated CIGS panels (pics)

jameshowison

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160w CIGS panels from Rich Solar. These were warranty replaced (I received a "store credit" and bought the 200w glass panels). So while I'm bitter about the whole thing at least Rich Solar did honor their warranty. My advice, though: if you have these panels remember to do this before the year is up. AFAICS Rich Solar is still selling these same panels ... they claim to have no info about manufacturing changes. I think they are betting that the "tape the edges" gets them past the *1 year* warranty period.

I thought people might like to know what it took to get these off the roof of our RV. They couldn't stay up there as already one of the full plastic cover sheets that delaminated came off somewhere, can't risk things flying off the RV and I wouldn't expect them to last without the plastic sheet. In case anyone is wondering, we installed these before the advice/requirement to tape the edges came out.

The butyl backing on the panels stuck very well to our smooth fiberglass roof. We were able to get a portion up with much sweat and small putty knives. We tried a few different things. No way to dissolve the butyl using adhesive removers (e.g., mineral spirits). Eventually we noticed that constant peeling pressure stretched the butyl and allowed us to release it with a knife. Did that by hand until we tired (like 6"!) So we rigged up a clamp from two pieces of wood screwed together with rope through holes at the ends. If you peel the connection end and get the clamp behind the connection that seems to work best. Then we used a ratchet clamp to pull a rope (through a turning block/snatch pulley, we swapped from the rachet clamp to the Masdem Rope Puller because that was easier and we had one https://www.maasdam.com/rope-pullers.html ). You want to set it up so that you don't have to move the clamp (which, unsurprisingly, is a pain because the butyl sticks to it ...)

Someone on the roof uses the knife to release the butyl, then calls for more pressure and so on until you hate the smell of butyl and curse the terrible product manufacturing that led to this debacle.

Thankfully the butyl left on the roof comes off surprisingly easily as it sticks to itself more than the roof. Still a massive time sink. I'd estimate it was 90 minutes of pulling and cutting to remove each panel, then an hour per panel of plucking sticky stuff off. Clean up with mineral spirits, and a razor scraper for some bits (especially the caulk we tried to use on the edges to stop the delamination ... that didn't work at all). Probably working in the hot sun helped the butyl stretch a bit.

Either the butyl or the heat stained the roof a smoker's yellow color. However that does seems to be lightening up in the strong sunlight, so it might not be horrendously ugly down the track.

IMG_0826.pngIMG_0827.pngIMG_0828.png

Hope that gives others dealing with this product failure a few ideas of how to tackle this job.
 
What a mess! Thanks for sharing.

We have a wood roof covered in canvas. We opted to screw the flexible (different brand) into the wood roof and small patches of VHB tape at the front edge and side edges. In over 4000 miles they have held strong.

We are re-doing the roof and will re-mount the panels. After watching "RV with Tito's" two different videos on mounting flexible panels, we're going to go with a modified version of his method, so when it comes to replacing the flexible panels (ours are good as new after 3 years, but they have seen little sun and are covered most of the year), it will be quite easy and simple with little messing with adhesives.
 
I'd be interested to see more photos of how the panels failed
 
After watching "RV with Tito's" two different videos on mounting flexible panels, we're going to go with a modified version of his method, so when it comes to replacing the flexible panels (ours are good as new after 3 years, but they have seen little sun and are covered most of the year), it will be quite easy and simple with little messing with adhesives.
Not to sidetrack the thread, but for flexible panels I recommend taping the entire 4 edges with 4” roofing tape.

I tried this method,
IMG_5206.png

and there was not enough contact surface and my rubber roof bubbled at the contact points.

Here is the installation on my roof and I DON’T recommend this method
IMG_5208.png
Because of “bubbling” at the edges, bottom right, which is the roofing tape pulling the rubber roof off the plywood.
IMG_5207.png
 
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and there was not enough contact surface and my rubber roof bubbled at the contact points.
So your roof bubbled before you used roofing tape? Or did you only tape at the grommets before taping the whole edge?

We just had a flexible panel tear loose using a modified version of RV with Tito’s method, the grommets failed due using way too thin washers and didn’t have lock washers either. The panel tore through the thin washer and bolt head, see my thread here:

 
So your roof bubbled before you used roofing tape? Or did you only tape at the grommets before taping the whole edge?

We just had a flexible panel tear loose using a modified version of RV with Tito’s method, the grommets failed due using way too thin washers and didn’t have lock washers either. The panel tore through the thin washer and bolt head, see my thread here:

The take away I’m trying to pass is installation with these flexible panels matters

———

I updated the post #3 with pics of my installation. The bubbling of the rubber roof occurred over the months after the installation. I had only taped by the six grommets.

Wind got underneath and bubbled the panel. The only way I’d install flexible panels on my rubber roof is with 4” roofing tape along all 4 sides, no gaps. I’ve done roofing tape along all edges on two other panels with no issue for 18 months. This is a bit of tape, 12 feet, and the stuff ain’t cheap.

If I had it to do over again, Id likely choose flat glass panels since installation of those IMO is not that much harder or even slightly easier than putting 12 feet of roofing tape on.
 
Wind got underneath and bubbled the panel.
Thanks for explaining that. I thought it meant that your rubber roof bubbled.

We’ve had no bubbling or issues for over 9000 miles on two flexible panels screwed down to a wood roof, single strip of Gorilla tape on the windward edge.

We just installed two more panels using the plastic sheet method similar to RV with Tito, which one failed within 24 hours as I mentioned. I think the sheeting is an issue and we’re going to remove it. Not interested in using roofing tape.
 
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We’ve had no bubbling or issues for over 9000 miles on two panels screwed down to a wood roof, single strip of Gorilla tape on the windward edge.
Screwed to the roof with washers with gorilla tape on the leafing edge seems like a good method, and easy.

I’m interested in reading how the OP @jameshowison secured the be that blew off.
 
Screwed to the roof with washers with gorilla tape on the leafing edge seems like a good method, and easy.

I’m interested in reading how the OP @jameshowison secured the be that blew off.
The panels I posted about had full butyl backing and were completely stuck down. No airflow.

The part that delaminated was a transparent plastic cover that is part of the panel. Search CIGS delaminating for symptoms pics. After whole cover blew off, see pics at https://diysolarforum.com/threads/delaminated-cigs-is-it-dangerous.60054/
 
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