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What Mini-Split did you use, and Why?

Is there any downside to the pre filled lines, DIY, that come with MrCool?

Are the units just as good as the pro installed?

Tools and testing really do make a difference. The lines of an air conditioner / heat pump operate at much higher pressures than most consumers have any experience with. Checking for leaks using a vacuum does not mean that lines are sealed under pressure.

The vacuum checks are mostly for making sure that the oxygen is removed and to prevent air traps - but again - most consumers have no experience with really doing this and don't own the right tools - and I don't mean harbor fright.

A $15 wire crimper is not a $400 wire crimper - and similar for the other aspects of the installation.

No - they are not mechanically or electrically the same.

It would be better if they were R290 refrigerant based IMHO but most in the US are not.

Are they good enough? If you are really careful is it good enough? I don't know - it is always very tempting and my garage is more or less unusable 1/2 of the year. I am not going to pay someone $10K to do an install.
 

Another 48 volt offering - mostly telecom oriented though.

I don't really understand why you would want to do this for telecom stuff. Would not AC be there already for the equipment.

I don't know telecom stuff, but I do know a thing or two about radio towers. They all have AC for the equipment, they are all very cool for the equipment and they all have standby generators, diesel or propane. I guess as just another way to power it all?
 
Yeah its kind of hard to believe lmao
lt.Dan, what system did you go with? and are you happy with it? I have a senville Aura 26 seer1200 which cools my whole house and only uses 4-5 hundred watts. I also have a senville Leto 9000 in a small studio and it uses at least a 100 watts more and has been a problem child from day one..
 
lt.Dan, what system did you go with? and are you happy with it? I have a senville Aura 26 seer1200 which cools my whole house and only uses 4-5 hundred watts. I also have a senville Leto 9000 in a small studio and it uses at least a 100 watts more and has been a problem child from day one..
I went with the Della 12000BTU 120v system with 21 SEER. For the price, im very happy. It does run a lot to cool my garage, but IMO that's because of the lack of insulation and of no fault to the Mini Split itself. The 12000BTU is enough to keep the garage at 78*, when its 110* outside and the sun shining on the door, but just barely. 18000BTU would probably have been a better idea, but the SEER rating went down with more BTUs.

I plan on putting a mini split in my living room to help the cooling/heating there, but I'm torn on if I want to put a more well known brand in for that one.
 
I went with the Della 12000BTU 120v system with 21 SEER. For the price, im very happy. It does run a lot to cool my garage, but IMO that's because of the lack of insulation and of no fault to the Mini Split itself. The 12000BTU is enough to keep the garage at 78*, when its 110* outside and the sun shining on the door, but just barely. 18000BTU would probably have been a better idea, but the SEER rating went down with more BTUs.

I plan on putting a mini split in my living room to help the cooling/heating there, but I'm torn on if I want to put a more well known brand in for that one.
the 1200 btu senville dropped my 1200 squ.ft. house to 75 degrees when it was 106 degrees outside, with help from some fans. the 26 seer really makes a difference in electric consumption. I bought it on ebay with a bid $200. less than the stated price of $1300.
 
Or an 80*F day! It must turn off at some point
I have the hi2 18k unit I have the extra wifi control for a Honeywell thermostat that I can control from anywhere. Unit is off just checked with clamp meter on my breaker box. 2 legs each read .6 amps so that means it’s pulling 140 watts 24/7. Glad I browse this form or I would not have known it’s costing me approximately $30 a month when not on use. Needless to say I will be turning off the breaker when not in use. I really only use it for cooling in the summer.
 
I don't really understand why you would want to do this for telecom stuff. Would not AC be there already for the equipment.

I don't know telecom stuff, but I do know a thing or two about radio towers. They all have AC for the equipment, they are all very cool for the equipment and they all have standby generators, diesel or propane. I guess as just another way to power it all?

There are an increasing number of data centers that do not have much or any 120 vac near the computers.

48 volt DC is very common and there is quite a bit of ~ 400 VDC now as well. Here is an older article on it, probably there is more up to day info as well.


Running off of DC eliminates the need for an inverter or mixing AC and DC power runs.

There is a telecom steel box in our neighborhood that has an air conditioner on it. I assume that it is for DSL or cable - not sure.
 
I don't really understand why you would want to do this for telecom stuff. Would not AC be there already for the equipment.

I don't know telecom stuff, but I do know a thing or two about radio towers. They all have AC for the equipment, they are all very cool for the equipment and they all have standby generators, diesel or propane. I guess as just another way to power it all?
I work on telecom sites. 48vdc is the way to go. All of the equipment runs off of -48v. Some sites don’t have a generator. They just use the battery’s for backup. Some have a 48v generator.
 
I work on telecom sites. 48vdc is the way to go. All of the equipment runs off of -48v. Some sites don’t have a generator. They just use the battery’s for backup. Some have a 48v generator.
Learning every day. Every radio tower I have been to has some form of fuel generator. NONE here have any solar stuff....at least none of the ones I have been to.
 
I installed a Pioneer 220v 1 ton mini-split. Best 900 bucks I ever spent. I was going to go with MrCool but the price didn't justify the pre-filled lines. Plus I didn't want to have extra lines coiled up. In my single car garage I installed two EG4 6500's and 6 EG4 LifePower batt rays. In the summer the garage was running about approx. 95F. So I ripped off all of the exterior drywall and insulated the walls. Then added insulation to the ceiling. I also Insulated the garage door. While the drywall was off, I ran 220v wiring to the exterior and installed a disconnect. I also ran the lineset and drain line within the wall for a cleaner look on the exterior. Now my garage is always 76F. Been running for 3 months now.
 
I installed a Pioneer 220v 1 ton mini-split. Best 900 bucks I ever spent. I was going to go with MrCool but the price didn't justify the pre-filled lines. Plus I didn't want to have extra lines coiled up. In my single car garage I installed two EG4 6500's and 6 EG4 LifePower batt rays. In the summer the garage was running about approx. 95F. So I ripped off all of the exterior drywall and insulated the walls. Then added insulation to the ceiling. I also Insulated the garage door. While the drywall was off, I ran 220v wiring to the exterior and installed a disconnect. I also ran the lineset and drain line within the wall for a cleaner look on the exterior. Now my garage is always 76F. Been running for 3 months now.
sounds like you did it right! o that must be a 12k btu system. how many watts does it use ? what seer is it rated at?
 
sounds like you did it right! o that must be a 12k btu system. how many watts does it use ? what seer is it rated at?
I'm also running a pioneer 12k and think it's some of the best money I've ever spent. They have multiple seer ratings, I'd recommend the inverter++ series for max efficiency. I haven't seen it pull more than 1500w on max cool or dry mode, the heating hasn't gotten a great workout yet since I installed it in the spring.
 
I'm also running a pioneer 12k and think it's some of the best money I've ever spent. They have multiple seer ratings, I'd recommend the inverter++ series for max efficiency. I haven't seen it pull more than 1500w on max cool or dry mode, the heating hasn't gotten a great workout yet since I installed it in the spring.
in California where electric rates are $.40-$.50 /kw, you have to get the high seer units. I have a senville aura 12k , at 26 seer it consumes 450 watts/hr. doesn't seem to matter where the temp is set. they are less efficient at heating , but way cheaper than natural gas.
 
in California where electric rates are $.40-$.50 /kw, you have to get the high seer units. I have a senville aura 12k , at 26 seer it consumes 450 watts/hr. doesn't seem to matter where the temp is set. they are less efficient at heating , but way cheaper than natural gas.
My 24k Aura at my cabin is really amazing. It’s been running since mid July. Our cabin never had AC and only electric baseboard heat. When here in winter, try to use fireplace and mostly wood stove on lower level in to offset the baseboard heat. Looking forward to see how this Senville performs in winter.
 

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At 450 watts it would be running at reduced rate of about 5-7 kbtu.

Because of high crest factor AC load current you cannot figure power by just multiplying a clamp-on amp meter reading by line voltage.
 
21.4 SEER. 1,095W in cooling mode.
SEER has little to do with EER. (yes, all other things being equal, higher EER will increase SEER). You gain SEER by being efficient when full btu output is not necessary after room temp and humidity is reduced.

EER on most inverter variable speed compressors (most modern mini-splits) is worse than a conventional air conditioner, since EER is specified at full rated btu. If you buy an undersized mini-split for indoor area, you will get less efficiency than an undersized, similar btu capacity conventional air conditioner.

Primary reason mini-split EER rating is worse than conventional unit is due to the three-phase inverter having about a 10% power loss at full btu output. Most mini-splits also have a smaller outside condenser heat exchanger than a conventional split unit air conditioner.

On a properly sized unit for the air-conditioned area, once area is cooled and humidity brought down, the required btu load drops to 20-30% of peak btu capability. This is where variable speed compressors shine and you get the higher SEER numbers.
 
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My 24k Aura at my cabin is really amazing. It’s been running since mid July. Our cabin never had AC and only electric baseboard heat. When here in winter, try to use fireplace and mostly wood stove on lower level in to offset the baseboard heat. Looking forward to see how this Senville performs in winter.
That is very efficient, you'll probably nix the fireplace come winter!
 
SEER has little to do with EER. (yes, all other things being equal, higher EER will increase SEER). You gain SEER by being efficient when full btu output is not necessary after room temp and humidity is reduced.

EER on most inverter variable speed compressors (most modern mini-splits) is worse than a conventional air conditioner, since EER is specified at full rated btu. If you buy an undersized mini-split for indoor area, you will get less efficiency than an undersized, similar btu capacity conventional air conditioner.

Primary reason mini-split EER rating is worse than conventional unit is due to the three-phase inverter having about a 10% power loss at full btu output. Most mini-splits also have a smaller outside condenser heat exchanger than a conventional split unit air conditioner.

On a properly sized unit for the air-conditioned area, once area is cooled and humidity brought down, the required btu load drops to 20-30% of peak btu capability. This is where variable speed compressors shine and you get the higher SEER numbers.
we don't have humidity issues in Ca., and the min-split does use a little more kw's than my former 4 ton gas conventional heater did, but there is no gas bill which was over $400. last December
 
At 450 watts it would be running at reduced rate of about 5-7 kbtu.

Because of high crest factor AC load current you cannot figure power by just multiplying a clamp-on amp meter reading by line voltage.
I use my solar monitor for quoting kw usage. I have no way to measure btu's, all i know is that it keeps the house at 74 when it is 97 outside.
 

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