COP isn’t good enough?Mitsubishi units also have electronic power factor correction for their inverter AC to HV DC power supply. An important consideration if running from a battery powered inverter or generator.
You won't find a power factor spec on most manufacturers' mini-split units. They can be as poor as 50-65% particularly on smaller btu units.
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I just recently learned there are now other companies that do the precharged line sets. I think EG4 is another one.Are the Mitsubishi units hands down better than Mr Cool? My install location is remote and would be easier and more fun to DIY
Coefficient of Performance is based on true power. Nothing to do with poor power factor and its effect on your AC source's additional losses due to poor power factor's higher AC current. (CoP = EER / 3.412)COP isn’t good enough?
I just recently learned there are now other companies that do the precharged line sets. I think EG4 is another one.
Heh... round trip flight included?
Are you sure? The outdoor unit, like most mini-splits, comes loaded with refrigerant, but I have never seen a Mitsubishi (or Daikin or Fujitsu or...) with a charged line set.The Mitsubishi Hyper Heat has a pre-charged line set option too. If you go with a 25 foot set.
Mitsubishi units also have electronic power factor correction for their inverter AC to HV DC power supply. An important consideration if running from a battery powered inverter or generator.
You won't find a power factor spec on most manufacturers' mini-split units. They can be as poor as 50-65% particularly on smaller btu units.
View attachment 163552
Are you sure? The outdoor unit, like most mini-splits, comes loaded with refrigerant, but I have never seen a Mitsubishi (or Daikin or Fujitsu or...) with a charged line set.
Refrigerant Charge | Pre-Charged For: 25' |
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Coefficient of Performance is based on true power. Nothing to do with poor power factor and its effect on your AC source's additional losses due to poor power factor's higher AC current. (CoP = EER / 3.412)
Inverter mini-splits with poor power factor are even worse. The poor power factor is due to their AC to HV DC power supply conversion with high peak current of 3 to 9 times the AC rms current value (high current crest factor). The high current spikes occur at the voltage peaks of AC sinewave.
The peak current spikes drive the PWM L-C filter in inverter crazy causing severe ringing oscillations in the 2 kHz to 4 kHz range of the PWM L-C filter frequency corner roll-off frequency. Reason for most the complaints about flicking lights from inverter powered AC source. The 2-4 kHz ringing impacts the ability of inverter to regulate its 60 Hz output AC voltage.
I believe Victron inverters are the only inverters that actually spec maximum AC load crest factor. They spec a maximum crest factor of 3 near full inverter loading.
We have a Mitsubishi Hyper heat unit in a poorly insulated building we own, and it's amazingly good. Way better than our Daikin units, in my opinion. We had it installed by a local company that does a lot of Daikins but had never installed a Mitsubishi (or at least this crew hadn't), and it went fine. I would NOT DIY it. If you need to go that route, I'd look at a Mr. Cool. I think their newest units are rated to sub-zero temps, but admit I haven't checked that specifically.
I can't exactly, but I know some heat pumps work by being on or off (duh...) and other fancier ones work at various levels. They can ramp up and start slow. The on/off variety tend to have a starting surge current that is quite high. I assume this messes with the efficiency to a noticable degree, but I've couldn't describe the physics going on in the compressor.Can you dumb this down for me? Are you saying our unit will at the end of the day require more electricity to run it than we might think it would from the COP numbers and efficiency ratings and such?
Or are you saying the frequencies and such are not handled by some inverters and so can damage them over time?
Ours will be powered by a Quattro through a Victron Autotransformer.
Or an 80*F day! It must turn off at some pointApparently the Mitsubishi Hyper Heat units with cold climate package use 200W, even if the unit is off, to heat the crankcase or pan and to keep fluids warm. There is some question of whether it only does this at ambient temps of 36F and below, or whether it does this at all times. Would be annoying to be losing 4.8KW a day on a 40F day...
Okay. They mean the outside unit comes loaded with refrigerant, not the line set. In fact, most mini-splits don't come with a line set; we buy the copper lines, a 14/4 cable that connects the inside and outside units, as well as a few other odds and ends separately.I'm never sure about any of this stuff.
Was going off this link which shows:
Refrigerant Charge Pre-Charged For: 25'
Great to know, thanks!Okay. They mean the outside unit comes loaded with refrigerant, not the line set. In fact, most mini-splits don't come with a line set; we buy the copper lines, a 14/4 cable that connects the inside and outside units, as well as a few other odds and ends separately.
Units labelled as DIY, such as Mr Cool, typically include that stuff. The lines sets that are included already have refrigerant in the lines, so no need to apply a vacuum.
Before I bought my Senville Aura Arctic 24k, I considered the the Mr Cool DIY but you can’t custom fit the line sets and if you look at videos many have excess lineset coiled up behind or underneath. Just don’t think it looks professional. A few hundred dollars in tools allowed me to do a custom fit install which looks great and still cheaper than DIY series. Nevermind the condensation line in this pic, it’s going to be routed under the deck via PVC to run down the slope. Other benefit is I have all the tools to do another one which will be cheaper to install.Is there any downside to the pre filled lines, DIY, that come with MrCool?
Are the units just as good as the pro installed?
You don’t have to add refrigerant if the line set is under 25ft long. The outside unit comes with enough refrigerant to filll up to a 25’ line set. For my 24k pioneer it was 16ft.Okay. They mean the outside unit comes loaded with refrigerant, not the line set. In fact, most mini-splits don't come with a line set; we buy the copper lines, a 14/4 cable that connects the inside and outside units, as well as a few other odds and ends separately.
Units labelled as DIY, such as Mr Cool, typically include that stuff. The lines sets that are included already have refrigerant in the lines, so no need to apply a vacuum.
Although the pre-refrigerant gas filled lines are a concern, the inside unit is more of a concern if shipped in a hot environment that raises the pressure on port sealing disks. There is a lot more refrigerant gas in the evaporator to expand at high temps during shipping.Is there any downside to the pre filled lines, DIY, that come with MrCool?
Are the units just as good as the pro installed?
Our Mitsubishi hyper heat unit NOT do that, and I'd be mad as a hornet if it did. Perhaps it doesn't have the cold climate package, but it operates just fine here in Maine. I think that heater turns itself on and off as needed. I have an Emporia Vue electricity monitor in that building, and often see that unit consuming only 14 watts of power, which I assume is used to keep the wifi dongle and IR receiver active. Even when running, I often see it down around 200 watts.Apparently the Mitsubishi Hyper Heat units with cold climate package use 200W, even if the unit is off, to heat the crankcase or pan and to keep fluids warm. There is some question of whether it only does this at ambient temps of 36F and below, or whether it does this at all times. Would be annoying to be losing 4.8KW a day on a 40F day...
Our Mitsubishi hyper heat unit NOT do that, and I'd be mad as a hornet if it did. Perhaps it doesn't have the cold climate package, but it operates just fine here in Maine. I think that heater turns itself on and off as needed. I have an Emporia Vue electricity monitor in that building, and often see that unit consuming only 14 watts of power, which I assume is used to keep the wifi dongle and IR receiver active. Even when running, I often see it down around 200 watts.
Late to the party.
I chose the Hotspot 48vdc 12k btu.
It made the most sense for me. Because I already have a system and batteries. I didn't need to increase any part of my system to accommodate the mini split. Just connect it to the battery bank and go.
I will be installing more of the same units, later in the build.