Which charger+inverter?

[hardtop]

Interesting that!
Ain’t a hillabeans difference betwix 7.66 and 7.5 is there?

Its the same thing.

One improvement for the Progressive Dynamics charger is they require a pin to stick into a tiny blind hole and feel around for a switch. Once the switch is found then it can be toggled from Lifepo4 and AGM. A simple button would be much better because its a PITA to find the pin tool. Its a lot like the pin used to remove a SIM from a phone.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

Umm... the MPP 1012-LV anyone? Set it to UBS and ignore the solar input?

My 1012LV-MK hangs on the wall, inverter switched off. It is an excellent SCC, and whenever the generator gets fired up it automagically charges at 60A. Beautiful machine. I wish they made a “2512” version.

 

[hardtop]

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[RF_Burns]

When I attempt to charge the pack with the Progressive Dynamics 60A charger, it will draw 7.x amps from the AC source but the BMS says it is only charging at 30A at most.
The charger power leads are 8g wire 3' long and terminated using jumper cable clamps. Neg from charger is connected to C- on BMS and pos. from charger is connected to the positive of the battery itself. Is there anything I can do to make it charge at 60A or is this by design?

You need larger cables from the charger to the battery. Read the voltage at charger and compare it to the voltage at the battery and you will be surprised at the difference. Better yet, read the voltage across each of your wires from the charger to the battery terminals. I also bet that you are losing some voltage using those jumper clamps instead of a bolted terminal.

You may find that your charger is actually at a constant voltage output because of the voltage drops in your wiring.

 

[hardtop]

You need larger cables from the charger to the battery. Read the voltage at charger and compare it to the voltage at the battery and you will be surprised at the difference. Better yet, read the voltage across each of your wires from the charger to the battery terminals. I also bet that you are losing some voltage using those jumper clamps instead of a bolted terminal.

You may find that your charger is actually at a constant voltage output because of the voltage drops in your wiring.

I tried to delete, but yeah I thought it was the cables too but the BMS is throttling it from 60A down to as low as 6A. Not sure wtf. One cell in the BMS app is red, about .05 higher than the other 3. Would that cause throttling?

 

[740GLE]

BMS doesn’t throttle current when charging, you toss 60a at it and it’ll take it all until it hits over voltage disconnect.

It’s up to your charger to throttle back current once it reaches CV setting.

 

[hardtop]

What I observed was when I stopped charging for a few hours, then began charging it will put out 59.xA to the BMS. All cells in the app are the same color (yellow), all is good for a minute or two then cell #3 will turn red and eventually charging will throttle down to about 6A. I put a 2A charge on it and cell #3 still gets red.

 

[hardtop]

BMS doesn’t throttle current when charging, you toss 60a at it and it’ll take it all until it hits over voltage disconnect.

It’s up to your charger to throttle back current once it reaches CV setting.

Something is miss-configured or broken then because the charger throttles WAY down.

 

[hardtop]

I added a phoenix 12/1200 inverter to my kit and the separate charger and inverter was the better configuration option vs the AIO regardless of price.
With the Progressive Dynamics charger, I can charge my SUV starter battery to keep it topped off while running off the DIY battery pack while having the inverter in the tent powering all my gear. That use case would be hard with the Multiplus. The 120A charger in the Multiplus is still a super compelling feature and that is what I wanted tbh.

The home depot wire is too stiff as others noted and the jumper cables I bought are probably like 8G at best and too thin gauge, the inverter calls for 4G wire. I would like to move the inverter to reposition it to be either sitting on the battery pack or on the other side of the battery on the floor. More flexible wire would allow that.

There is a Cal Ranch nearyby that I found aside from Lowes, Ace, etc and they have welding wire that is either 2G or 4G for $5 a foot, its flexible having finer copper strands. Has anyone tried that kind of wire or does everyone buy all parts online?

There are also battery cables in the automotive stores. Has anyone tried using automotive battery cable for their inverter and charger connections?

 

[12VoltInstalls]

Has anyone tried that kind of wire

All my current battery and inverter cables are welding cable.

does everyone buy all parts online

On amazone look up windyNation for assembled cables made with welding cable or plain lengths of welding cable. They are quality and fairly priced.

2G or 4G…the inverter calls for 4G wire

FYI: It’s 2AWG, 4AWG, 2ga, or 4ga, or 8ga/8AWG.
4G is a cellular packet/speed protocol.

would like to move the inverter to reposition it to be either sitting on the battery pack

That’s not a good approach.

There are also battery cables in the automotive stores. Has anyone tried using automotive battery cable for their inverter and charger connections?

My prior FLA battery band was a mix of walmartha battery cables and welding cables. Battery cables are normally a couple of different ‘regular’ sizes and 2ga is one of them. Walmartha might have 4ga.
I bought ~60” cables and cut them in half, then hex-crimped on tinned terminal ends to make two for one saving $$.

The problem with automotive battery cables is that the commodity cables are often plated steel and eventually will corrode.

That use case would be hard with the Multiplus

Use case? A use case is parameter-driven definition-contained study in education, industry, intellectual discourse, or scientific endeavors. But I digress ?

 

[hardtop]

All my current battery and inverter cables are welding cable.

On amazone look up windyNation for assembled cables made with welding cable or plain lengths of welding cable. They are quality and fairly priced.

FYI: It’s 2AWG, 4AWG, 2ga, or 4ga, or 8ga/8AWG.
4G is a cellular packet/speed protocol.

That’s not a good approach.

My prior FLA battery band was a mix of walmartha battery cables and welding cables. Battery cables are normally a couple of different ‘regular’ sizes and 2ga is one of them. Walmartha might have 4ga.
I bought ~60” cables and cut them in half, then hex-crimped on tinned terminal ends to make two for one saving $$.

The problem with automotive battery cables is that the commodity cables are often plated steel and eventually will corrode.

Use case? A use case is parameter-driven definition-contained study in education, industry, intellectual discourse, or scientific endeavors. But I digress ?

Why isn't putting the inverter on top of the battery a bad approach?

 

[12VoltInstalls]

Why isn't putting the inverter on top of the battery a bad approach?

Most inverters have a metal back. Most batteries have posts/bolts on top. Inverters should be pretty secure installed.
Seems like inviting a representative from Murphy’s Law sticking it

 

[hardtop]

Most inverters have a metal back. Most batteries have posts/bolts on top. Inverters should be pretty secure installed.
Seems like inviting a representative from Murphy’s Law sticking it

I have another plastic piece to fit the case that is not shown. It will slide over the cells to protect the entire top of the cells and double as a mount for the inverter.

 

[JRH]

If there are no good alternatives, does the efficiency curve really matter? If you found 2 or more products that meet your need, then by all means compare whatever features are important to you.

Running an inverter at 30-40% of load is probably in a good part of the efficiency range. Especially if you will be running in harsh environments. I wouldn't want to be running an inverter at 80% of load when it is 40c degrees. It may get warm at 40%, and hot at 80%. You should also consider power stability at the higher end of the operating range. A lot of inverters can't put out the name plate rating. Headroom is your friend. Finally, VA is not the same as watts. At 75% of the watts, you could be close to 100% of VA.

I'd be more worried about the efficiency of your generator at the power point you will be using.

Who when starting out ever bought an inverter/ charger / panels / and accessories.. And NEVER thought later…
“ I wish I had bought more ,bigger and better stuff at first.“..?

No one I ever met …. and surely not me…

J.

 

[Rednecktek]

Who when starting out ever bought an inverter/ charger / panels / and accessories.. And NEVER thought later…
“ I wish I had bought more ,bigger and better stuff at first.“..?

No one I ever met …. and surely not me…

J.

I'm glad I started small and I didn't have any desire to go larger until I took my cabin to a 24v system.

 

[JRH]

I'm glad I started small and I didn't have any desire to go larger until I took my cabin to a 24v system.

You’re a clever boater I see….hmmm….but no so quick Cap’t ….I never conditionalized the timing of wanting bigger and more stuff ,just the fact that it would occur later ….and it did… later…
”later“ is an evolving concept…. it’s Fluid…. It morphs…..

BTW , I like your cabin …it looks like a fun place for a poker game with friends…

J….

 

[Rednecktek]

I put it in the same category as my 3 tatoos, I got all I need and if I need more I'll cross under that bridge when I get there. ?

When I can get a fat wad of cash and a house I'll look into a larger system then, but I'm not gonna worry about it until then.

Fir now I've got my cabin and a new pop-up camper to revamp so I'm happy for now.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

new pop-up camper to revamp

Interesting. Are you going to use it mobile or for a stationary purpose?

 

[Rednecktek]

Interesting. Are you going to use it mobile or for a stationary purpose?

Mobile. So I can get away from the world for a few days without an 8 hour drive each way.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

Mobile. So I can get away from the world for a few days without an 8 hour drive each way.

Spend time underneath with some aluminum flashing and polyurethane caulking. That will thwart the cute little Mickeys and Minnies. ?
You can eliminate them

NEVER thought later…
“ I wish I had bought more ,bigger and better stuff at first.“..?

Well you haven’t met me.
The original 200W windy nation kit and Giandel 1200W was exactly what I needed then.
My upgrades only happened when I expanded my money saving project and thereby needed electricity to run the fridge. Then I progressed to winterized and needed to accommodate a furnace, and then I added 315W panels and additional SCC options. I never wished id done more because I got exactly what I needed when I needed it.

Scaling up as needs changed or I enhanced my goals was just that. I never regretted what I got or wished for more other than being annoyed at needing a couple warranty issues resolved.

I’m a boat guy- small boat guy- and I just never succumbed to one-foot-itis either.