SunDave
Solar Enthusiast
Hmm. Complication is the friend of cheats and swindlers. Not honest people so much. A simple rate adjustment for high demand times would suffice, but be too simple apparently.
I'm going to quote that in my next correspondence with the power company.Hmm. Complication is the friend of cheats and swindlers. Not honest people so much. A simple rate adjustment for high demand times would suffice, but be too simple apparently.
Oh, it's done after "extensive consultation".Hmm. Complication is the friend of cheats and swindlers. Not honest people so much. A simple rate adjustment for high demand times would suffice, but be too simple apparently.
That is great!!Hmm. Complication is the friend of cheats and swindlers. Not honest people so much. A simple rate adjustment for high demand times would suffice, but be too simple apparently.
I'd already initiated a change of retailer last week but I just got notice from my current one of a rate change taking effect a bit over a week from now.I know most of us solar folks might not like it but it would sure simplify things if the connection fee (metering charge, etc) was upped to $50 and included something like the first 250 kWh and 10 kW of demand.
That's what we pay for our minimum bill roughly $30/mo USD to remain connected to the grid.The new retail plan I'm moving to is charging $1.45/day
To be fair here, most of the bizarre charges and details on our bill (SDG+E) comes because laws have been passed that require those items to be listed for "ratepayer transparency."Hmm. Complication is the friend of cheats and swindlers. Not honest people so much. A simple rate adjustment for high demand times would suffice, but be too simple apparently.
I believe this is the problem some companies are trying to solve with smart home management panels and load control panels.Scrutinizing the fancy new appearance of this month's bill with info-bubbles and multi-color graphs, one can discover in the much smaller print on the back that the Demand Charge per kW has jumped 30x from $0.10 to $3.00.
First thoughts are that some contactors with an NC dry contact switch section as a quick and dirty workaround. For example: if the dryer element is ON, the water heater element cannot turn ON. Additional loads could be added and arranged in a most to least important hierarchy. Control wiring and contactor switching noise would be a downside.
I looked into this. Generac make prioritized load shedding modules. They are simply wired inline with the appliance being controlled. Unfortunately it appears that the master controller that decides when load needs to be shed and how much is in the generator. There could also be some issues with doing load shed on some items like A/C compressors. A thermostat has some timing on it so that is will not turn a compressor back on for say 2 minutes after a power failure. This allows the pressure on the high side of the compressor to bleed down before the restart.I believe this is the problem some companies are trying to solve with smart home management panels and load control panels.
Yes, and not a small tank either!Really! They used enough water to notice!
That thought has been percolating . . .Consider tempering valve and higher temperature setting.
Yes, they are separate and full power, and had wondered if might be possible as a way of reducing by a smaller fraction but hadn't tried it yet.Another way to get 50% would be wiring top and bottom elements in series. But separate elements with full power at top may be how it gives quicker partial recovery.
Let's just say I need an autonomous implementation.You may need to post a sign on dryer asking it not be used during the time people are showering.
I think DIY is in the name of the forum!You might be able to "Roll your own"
Where can one find info on how to set up the contactors?Yes a couple of sets of contactors and you can make your own load shedding device. Sense power from the stove but do not turn that one on and off because it buggers the clock up, control the dryer and the water heater.
You could also look for or make your own low power elements for your dryer and there are lower power elements available for water heaters.
I tried a big old diode to cut the power in half on my dryer heating element but it really did not work well at all, the dryer buzzed like crazy and the whole electrical system was grumpy.