diy solar

diy solar

EVE 280ah 24v battery frame

I'm going to use the Victron Multiplus 24/3000/70. They recommend a 300A fuse and up to 100mm2 cable (2 x 50) depending on length . 4/0 cable is 107 mm2.

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Here are the overload ratings of the Victron inverters (link). So it could handle 6000w for 1/2 second and 3900w for 30 minutes. All values would be de-rated based on increased temperatures. I'd rather oversize than undersize.
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Thank you for this i formation. I will be using same inverter . Where do you planning install your fuses (as close as possible to the battery enclosure?)
What type fuses
 
I'm going with these 300A battery terminal fuse (unfortunately the M10 hole is oversized for EVE cells)

Attaching fuse to Cell ? Well, that's new...
Usual, would be Cell to Cable, to Battery Terminal Lug, to fuse, to wire to BusBar > Devices.
Directly attaching a fuse to a cell I do not think is wise, please I urge you to reconsider that and instead make use of Case Battery Terminals. The connection at the cell you want to be as stable & "fixed" as possible, you do not want anything on a cell that can move in any way, it's an invitation for trouble.

Options:
 
MRBF Fuse with Block:
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I started by using these on the Battery (+) terminal but due to reconfig of my powerhouse & shelves etc I have moved the fuses to the Big Busbars. My BATT Shunts and DCC Contactors are on the (-) side, so no problem.
 
Ohh, I should mention. Eaton bought Bussman so the two product families cross and are all High Quality products.
When it comes to Fuses & Breakers there is little room for using anything that isn;t top grade. Your equipment, property & life could depend on it, so no point in taking a silly risk on these items.
 
Ohh, I should mention. Eaton bought Bussman so the two product families cross and are all High Quality products.
When it comes to Fuses & Breakers there is little room for using anything that isn;t top grade. Your equipment, property & life could depend on it, so no point in taking a silly risk on these items.

Agreed. It's kind of like tires and brakes on a car. Not a good place to go cheap.

It took me a while to figure out that the Eaton and Bussman stuff was the same. A search for one would come up with different results that a search for the other. I switched to looking for Blue Sea Systems, which are the Eaton Bussman product I believe.
 
I'm curious as to what others think . You have giant cables hooked to cells then you have those relitavely small studs. Would this create a choke point for the energy? But nice job no matter what.
 
I believe the surface area of the terminal on the cell making good contact with the bus bar and the cable lug making contact with the bus bar is where the majority of the current is flowing through. When I get to the point of running a single A/C from battery I will definitely test terminal, lug and cable temperatures. I also am planning to use the MRBF fuses.
 
The MRBF fuses don't pass current through the stud. In the case of battery terminals, the stud carries little current, and is not typically considered in the calculations. Instead a smooth low resistance contact between the bus bar and cell terminal is the primary path.
 
Attaching fuse to Cell ? Well, that's new...
Usual, would be Cell to Cable, to Battery Terminal Lug, to fuse, to wire to BusBar > Devices.
Directly attaching a fuse to a cell I do not think is wise, please I urge you to reconsider that and instead make use of Case Battery Terminals. The connection at the cell you want to be as stable & "fixed" as possible, you do not want anything on a cell that can move in any way, it's an invitation for trouble.

Of course using the Fuse block with the fuse, that's what the Amazon link was supposed to show, I don't know why the forum coverted it to "Robot Check"
 
Note the MRBF are only rated to break 2kA for 16s batteries. I still use them and like them, but it's a risk that you can ameliorate by going external.

The other problem with MRBF is that the lug size is M10, and I haven't come up with a good way to make them fit on an M6 diameter terminal like the EVE 280Ah cells have. So far, I'm just using a grub screw and lots of torque, but I think getting some custom M6-M10 studs would probably be better. I tried to find an M6-M10 sleeve or spacer, but the thinnest ones I could source were M6-to-M12.

If you put a bigger plate (like, a bus bar) underneath the MRBF, I think the inevitable sliding won't change the surface contact area, so it's probably okay. But still not ideal.
 
Nebster, you are the only person I've seen trying to put an MRBF on a Cell, they are designed to go on a 3/8" Battery Terminal. These do not belong on the cell.
 
The other problem with MRBF is that the lug size is M10, and I haven't come up with a good way to make them fit on an M6 diameter terminal like

Mcmaster has drill bushings.

There is also this aluminum tubing. 0.39" is 10mm, and you could drill out the ID to whatever diameter you like.
Aluminum Tubing
 
Nebster, you are the only person I've seen trying to put an MRBF on a Cell, they are designed to go on a 3/8" Battery Terminal. These do not belong on the cell.
I agree they dont belong on a cell, especially one with a 6mm stud. However you can add me to the list of people using one on a cell. After reading this post I ordered a 3/8" terminal and will be rewiring my 12 volt battery. I was never comfortable with the loose fit and the leverage that the pigtail and the MRBF created on the cell terminal. This is a portable pack that I hobbled together to power a small inverter to keep my elder sisters refrigerator running and give her some lights in a power outage.
 
Mcmaster has drill bushings.

Now that looks perfect. I wish I knew how to click around better on Mcmaster and find random stuff. "Show me everything cylindrical with an OD of 10mm and an ID of 6mm" would be a cool search feature, too.
 
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