@hammick Does the Schneider not accept CAN bus messages from the Orion to stop it? The fault codes definitely work to disable my Victron charge controller if there is an issue.
The Jr.2 is supposed to be able to stop charging and/or inverting based upon high or low cells and temperature. Orion figured it out but it is not sanctioned by Schneider. Orion sent me a custom profile that was supposed to work but it does not. Orion tech is going to work on it on Monday. But they have made it clear to me that communication with my equipment is no officially supported by Orion and that I need to get a contactor. If I get a contactor why do I need the BMS to control my equipment? It's just on or off. Not fancy current reduction like the Victron. If I had to start over again I would get Victron equipment I think.@hammick Does the Schneider not accept CAN bus messages from the Orion to stop it? The fault codes definitely work to disable my Victron charge controller if there is an issue.
So I have another problem. I finally installed the hall effect sensor and the current reading is all over the place. Plus I get an error when I try to zero the hall effect sensor. I even removed it from the battery cable and tried to zero it. Same error. I assume I have a faulty sensor. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks.
Luth can you point me to the "average" setting in the utility. I'm not seeing it. I post a video shortly showing how erratic mine is. To the point that having current information is useless. Thanks.You should be able to verify the sensor output with a multimeter. Supply the sensor regulated 5V and ground. Then put a volt meter on the two outputs and compare to ground. Each will be a voltage from 0.5-4.5V. One is the low current circuit, the other is the high current circuit.
If you are using an inverter or AC charging source as the load/source, the instantaneous current will jump all over the place. This inverters and AC chargers have significant DC ripple current (can be very large if viewing on a high speed scope). The BMS has a value called average current which smooths these pulses a bit. If you put a pure DC load (such as a DC motor, or even some MPPT controllers), the current should be much more stable.
My thought is that shouldn't need to zero the sensor in most applications, as they are calibrated at the factory. Note that negative current is charging, and positive current is discharging. You can reverse the sensors direction in software if you get it backwards by mistake.
You can extend the hall sensors harness, but I suggest using a grounded shield cable, or adding a shield yourself if needed.
Luth can you point me to the "average" setting in the utility. I'm not seeing it. I post a video shortly showing how erratic mine is. To the point that having current information is useless. Thanks.
So I graphed the pack current and average pack current. Are you guys seeing such a huge variation as I am? If so I'll forget about the HES and move on to my Canbus issues. As you can see my HES is around three stacked Basen buss bars which are attached to my 500a shunt for my battery monitors. Maybe the shunt is causing a lot more ripple than normal. I can put the shunt below the HES if needed.As cinergi says, its a live text value. It can also be logged/graphed in that tab. Its not perfect, but was a fair bit more reliable when running my inverter. Only 20% oscillation vs 70-80% with the instant/raw value.
Thank you. You answered my next question about why my shunt based battery monitors only vary by a few tenths of a volt.Most battery monitors and current meters apply an averaging method, either software or hardware, to produce a human friendly value.
Thanks. I will double check everything before I button it up. Until today the shunt was on the negative battery post but I couldn't take the shit wiring show anymore. 18 cell taps wires are shit show enough for the new enclosure.Also as a note, your signal wiring (shunt etc) should never run parallel to AC wiring. It can cross it (45-90 degrees). Don't pass it through the same knockout/hole as AC wiring. If they must run parallel, several inches of separation is suggested.