My wife would not object. It would mean less cooking for her.
Unfortunately, my PD converter isn’t the lithium option. I’m actually setting up a master/slave system with solar controllers. The sb3024il (master) will control the 420w of panels on the roof and the sb3000i (slave) will control the solar on the side (160+ watts) and all will integrate with the IPNpro remote. Now that I’ve decided to relocate the battery into the pass-thru, I’m abandoning a heated battery option. Even with a -1F windchill factor a couple days ago, my pass-thru never went below 39F. As much as I’d love to have BB batteries, I’ll prob go SOK at this point for the savings.I have a new 1575 that I got very recently. The solar on the side port is from Go Power, and has no charge controller. It runs straight to the battery through an inline fuse right behind the battery disconnect (which you have to remove to access it if you blow it like I did, because their sae connector is wired backwards). I bought a 240w used panel from santan solar and mounted a 20a mppt charge controller on it, and plug that into the side when needed. About $150 for that.
Also, the power dynamics converter has a switch to charge lithium (at least the new ones do, check your model). I dropped in a battleborn, flipped the switch, and adjusted the solar charge controller for lithium as well. So far so good, though my power needs are relatively low.
Makes sense.Unfortunately, my PD converter isn’t the lithium option. I’m actually setting up a master/slave system with solar controllers. The sb3024il (master) will control the 420w of panels on the roof and the sb3000i (slave) will control the solar on the side (160+ watts) and all will integrate with the IPNpro remote. Now that I’ve decided to relocate the battery into the pass-thru, I’m abandoning a heated battery option. Even with a -1F windchill factor a couple days ago, my pass-thru never went below 39F. As much as I’d love to have BB batteries, I’ll prob go SOK at this point for the savings.
Nice3.0
Now if the snow would stop so I can plan out component placement!
It IS overkill, but I'm going to have it, so I figured use it. This is the part that makes my eyes cross. I've shoved a lot of knowledge in a cluttered space in a short amount of time.Class T fuse is usually between the battery and the disconnect switch. You still want overcurrent protection between the bus bar and the inverter, but that's often - but not always - a circuit breaker.
There should be a circuit breaker between the solar panel and solar charge controller. 8 awg is overkill going into the solar charge controller. It's not wrong to use that large of wire, just not necessary.
I already have the ms2012. The only major component I haven't bought yet is the LiFePO4 battery. But my thoughts on the 3000w inverter were the same. It was just too much for my needs.i would get the 2000 not the 3000 watt inverter. Reason is with only 200AH battery you are never gonna really be able to utilize the 3000 watts and if so not for a very long time period.
Pixie. Onde year later if you are still out there. Did you finish your project? How did you get your AC wires from the AC box by the oven to inverter?I already have the ms2012. The only major component I haven't bought yet is the LiFePO4 battery. But my thoughts on the 3000w inverter were the same. It was just too much for my needs.