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diy solar

Guidance, suggestions, and help on my Lance 1575 project

I have a new 1575 that I got very recently. The solar on the side port is from Go Power, and has no charge controller. It runs straight to the battery through an inline fuse right behind the battery disconnect (which you have to remove to access it if you blow it like I did, because their sae connector is wired backwards). I bought a 240w used panel from santan solar and mounted a 20a mppt charge controller on it, and plug that into the side when needed. About $150 for that.

Also, the power dynamics converter has a switch to charge lithium (at least the new ones do, check your model). I dropped in a battleborn, flipped the switch, and adjusted the solar charge controller for lithium as well. So far so good, though my power needs are relatively low.
Unfortunately, my PD converter isn’t the lithium option. I’m actually setting up a master/slave system with solar controllers. The sb3024il (master) will control the 420w of panels on the roof and the sb3000i (slave) will control the solar on the side (160+ watts) and all will integrate with the IPNpro remote. Now that I’ve decided to relocate the battery into the pass-thru, I’m abandoning a heated battery option. Even with a -1F windchill factor a couple days ago, my pass-thru never went below 39F. As much as I’d love to have BB batteries, I’ll prob go SOK at this point for the savings.
 
Unfortunately, my PD converter isn’t the lithium option. I’m actually setting up a master/slave system with solar controllers. The sb3024il (master) will control the 420w of panels on the roof and the sb3000i (slave) will control the solar on the side (160+ watts) and all will integrate with the IPNpro remote. Now that I’ve decided to relocate the battery into the pass-thru, I’m abandoning a heated battery option. Even with a -1F windchill factor a couple days ago, my pass-thru never went below 39F. As much as I’d love to have BB batteries, I’ll prob go SOK at this point for the savings.
Makes sense.
 
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Now if the snow would stop so I can plan out component placement!
 

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Class T fuse is usually between the battery and the disconnect switch. You still want overcurrent protection between the bus bar and the inverter, but that's often - but not always - a circuit breaker.

There should be a circuit breaker between the solar panel and solar charge controller. 8 awg is overkill going into the solar charge controller. It's not wrong to use that large of wire, just not necessary.
 
Class T fuse is usually between the battery and the disconnect switch. You still want overcurrent protection between the bus bar and the inverter, but that's often - but not always - a circuit breaker.

There should be a circuit breaker between the solar panel and solar charge controller. 8 awg is overkill going into the solar charge controller. It's not wrong to use that large of wire, just not necessary.
It IS overkill, but I'm going to have it, so I figured use it. This is the part that makes my eyes cross. I've shoved a lot of knowledge in a cluttered space in a short amount of time.

-Could you recommend a overcurrent protection product b/w the busbar and MS2012 inverter, and likewise for the two panels (210w each) in parallel to the charge controller?
-Also, would it be more beneficial to have two of the 103ah SOK's in parallel or just one of the 206ah SOK's? Doesn't the discharge rate double in parallel and would this help me?
-I had another question and POOF, it's gone. Squirrel. Or my brain is frozen.

These are the specs again for the 210w solar panel.
  • Max Power Output(W): 210W
  • Voltage MPP Vmp(V): 16.77V
  • Current MPP Imp(A): 12.48A
  • Voltage Open Circuit Voc(V): 19.83V
  • Short Circuit Current Isc(A): 13.09A
And thank you, thank you, thank you, to you and anyone and everyone who has taken time out of their day to assist me.
 
Oh, make sure your solar charge controller can actually accept 8 awg. My Victron specs say max of 6 awg, so that's what I used.

Here is the DC breaker I'm using for between my panels and solar charge controller.


Blue Sea is the circuit breaker most often recommended when a single pole breaker is called for. Be sure you get one that can handle the amps your inverter will draw.


I'm not familiar with the SOK line of batteries. A 103 Ah battery may have a smaller BMS than a 206 Ah battery. So the charge/discharge amps of two 103 batteries could be the same as a 206.
 
i would get the 2000 not the 3000 watt inverter. Reason is with only 200AH battery you are never gonna really be able to utilize the 3000 watts and if so not for a very long time period.
 
my class a rv , i used the factory oven as the electrical closet. im not a chef, and the range top only gets used when im too lazy to grill, but i grill most every meal.
 
i would get the 2000 not the 3000 watt inverter. Reason is with only 200AH battery you are never gonna really be able to utilize the 3000 watts and if so not for a very long time period.
I already have the ms2012. The only major component I haven't bought yet is the LiFePO4 battery. But my thoughts on the 3000w inverter were the same. It was just too much for my needs.
 
I already have the ms2012. The only major component I haven't bought yet is the LiFePO4 battery. But my thoughts on the 3000w inverter were the same. It was just too much for my needs.
Pixie. Onde year later if you are still out there. Did you finish your project? How did you get your AC wires from the AC box by the oven to inverter?
 
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