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Compact 4S compression enclosure using Eve LF280K cells

boywonder

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Jul 23, 2022
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I'm replacing two aging 170ah AGMs in my camper van with this battery. The AGMs were Lucent/Alcatel server backup batteries and were about 7.5" wide, and the enclosure in the van just fit them.........so I'm limited to a width of 7.5" for the new pack. I'm fabricating it from aluminum because I'd like to have a non-combustible enclosure, I want stiff end plates for compression, and because I have a fair bit of scrap aluminum from other projects in the garage. :cool:

Cells are Eve LF280K 280ah cells each measuring 3.29V as shipped. They show some slight bulging, I'm assuming that's normal.

The end plates are 1/2" thick. I'm using female binder bolts/sex bolts typically used for furniture construction along with Belleville spring washers and 1/4-20 allthread for a compact enclosure design. The top, bottom and side plates are 1/8" aluminum and are free to slide around in 1/8" wide saw kerfs cut in the end plates with a non-ferrous saw blade....the end plates can easily expand/contract since the side and top/bottom plates are not fastened to either end plate.

Each all-thread rod and binder bolt has 4 stacked belleville spring washers that apply between 110 and 175 lbs on the pack providing between 6psi and 10psi and allows for about .048" or 1.2mm cell expansion total. If I need more travel I can add additional washers; each washer provides .012" of travel. I can also select stiffer bellevilles for additional load if needed. The bellevilles were purchased from McMaster as well as a bunch of other misc hardware and material.

The cells are separated from the case with 1/8" ABS sheet and some .050" thick stiff plastic between the cells (cut from old plastic three-ring-binders).

I've also machined up some delrin shoulder spacers for the external battery terminals.

I'm waiting on a JBD 200A BMS; it hasn't arrived yet, but my plan is to mount it to the underside of the top cover for additional heat sinking.

A couple of questions:

Can I mount the JBD BMS directly to the aluminum enclosure? ...that's my present plan although I can mount it isolated if required.

I'm planning on using 5/16" brass screws for the battery terminals; I threw some 18-8 stainless screws in there as placeholders for now.....assuming brass is a better choice than stainless are far as conductivity goes. Are stainless screws/bolts for terminals a bad idea?

Not shown are the side covers......my plan is to have full covers so the case is completely enclosed with the BMS cooling augmented by using the top cover as additional sinking, but I can also easily provide venting around the top of the cells and the top cover. I like the idea of completely enclosed since the tight space it fits in is also lined with fuzzy trunk liner material. My loads are light except occasionally using a 700W microwave through a 1000W inverter that draws about 100 amps.
 

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I would use copper or aluminum for the terminals. Brass, stainless, steel, bronze are all relatively poor conductors. Check for heat at 100 amps.
 
^^^ +1.

I would isolate the BMS off the aluminum plate. It will prevent any odd/accidental current and it may help keep the BMS cooler.

Will your bottom plate be floating in the groove or will it be a pivot point for when the upper rod is tightened?
 
I would use copper or aluminum for the terminals. Brass, stainless, steel, bronze are all relatively poor conductors. Check for heat at 100 amps.
Thanks! I've done some homework here on the forum and reached the same conclusion.....thinking about some machined rod stock through the end plate isolated by larger delrin or nylon shoulder washers. I have aluminum.........and copper is $$$ so aluminum will likely be first try.
 
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^^^ +1.

I would isolate the BMS off the aluminum plate. It will prevent any odd/accidental current and it may help keep the BMS cooler.

Will your bottom plate be floating in the groove or will it be a pivot point for when the upper rod is tightened?
The bottom, sides and top all just slide a little in the saw kerfs.......the trick to the whole stack-up (besides springs rates and preload) is when the cells are discharged and clamped to the target psi that the bottom, sides and top are not bottomed in the groove. ....and as the cells expand a little when charged they are less bottomed in the groove, but still in the groove!

I was hoping to use the enclosure (or at least the top of the enclosure) as additional heat sinking for the BMS if it was fastened to the underside of the top since I'd like the enclosure totally "enclosed" but I can vent the top and upper parts of the side panels and isolate the BMS......or perhaps mount it to the top with a layer of kapton tape between them and non-conductive screws for electrical isolation.
 
That JBD 200a BMS has fins on the entirety of bottom, so a very small surface contact area if directly mounted to aluminum.

If anything having the unit vertical for added air flow wouldn’t hurt.
 
I was planning on mounting the non-finned side to the top.......although I'm still going through various configurations in my head. I'll be working on it today.

Edit: I have it right here and mounting the smooth side to the top isn't going to fly...........so on to plan B, C, D....
 
Well I don't have vertical airflow.......but I've put a fan with a speed control on the top......no idea how I'm going to control the fan though, but on the lowest potentiometer speed setting it's silent. I checked for continuity between both the plate and the heat sink to the B- and C- terminals.........everything over 40 meg Ohms. The heatsink and bottom plate are screwed together so they have continuity between them.

So it appears that directly mounting the BMS to a metal plate may be fine...but I isolated it anyway.

The screws mounting the BMS are isolated from the enclosure with shoulder washers and PEEK washers on either surface of the top plate as shown.

I decided to go with the Blue Sea bulkhead terminals for the loads since I'm not able to fabricate a robust terminal with my lathe/mill....

The two things I couldn't solve are:

Coming up with a way to not have the threaded terminal spin when tightening the cables.

......and not being able to fabricate a "shouldered" threaded terminal since I don't have the talent to cut male threads. I thought about tapping threads in a cylindrical slug of copper and screwing copper allthread through it and isolating that with shoulder washers but still couldn't come up with an easy and robust way to keep the whole thing from rotating when tightening/loosening. From some reading here and other places it's not good practice to pass the current through the threaded fastener.

Here are a few pics of the BMS/top plate:
 

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I have two sets of fans in my setup. One pair of fans in the battery compartment and another fan in the inverter compartment. I control the fans with my Victron Cerbo GX. That works well and eliminated the need to buy a separate thermostat.

I have separate thermostats that control the warming pads on my batteries. One thermostat for each battery. These thermostats could easily control your fan.
 
Can you point me to an appropriate thermostat? I'm planning on venting my electrical compartment and adding a fan. It's fairly large and has worked fine un-vented for years but while I'm there.......why not. My solar controller, fuse blocks, inverter, charger and batteries are all in there together.
 
Here is the thermostat that I'm using. Quite a few others on the forum are using the same one. No issues in two years.

 
Some used the BMS bolts that secure top to bottom as a mounting point for a z type mounting bracket, there’s enough threads to slid in 1/8” aluminum under the bolts.
 
Some used the BMS bolts that secure top to bottom as a mounting point for a z type mounting bracket, there’s enough threads to slid in 1/8” aluminum under the bolts.
I'm Using the BMS threaded holes to mount it to the top plate with longer 3mm screws and plastic shoulder washers and spacers for isolation.
 
More progress........

The Amazon thermostat for the fan is on order.

When I first laid out this design I had the height at 12".........when fabricating the end plates I decided I could likely get away with an 11" tall enclosure. That proved too tight for comfort once I got the 2 AWG wires and buss bars etc above the batteries.

So I fabricated some "extenders" since I didn't have enough 1/2" aluminum plate laying around to re-make both end panels. I also got the Blue Sea bulkhead connectors mounted.

I bought a cheap Ebay terminal crimper that lasted two whole crimps......PITA......I also need 1/4" crimp terminals for the battery studs; the ones shown are 5/16". The first pic is the original height and the second is with the height extenders.

I'm also going to order more belleville washers since I don't think three stacked washers will provide enough travel from flat to bloated. I'll post a few diagrams and calculations for determining the spring preload in case anyone is interested in using belleville washers for compression.
 

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Thanks! ......the BMS screws that I have on-hand are not fully threaded, so they have to go in from the top, screw into the heat sink snuggly then nut off the bottom plate. With fully threaded fasteners screwed from the bottom up you can remove the BMS from the top plate without the bottom cover of the BMS coming loose. Fully threaded 3mm screws are on the shopping list.

The thermostat just showed up; smaller than I was expecting which is great......I'll likely mount that right on the top plate too.

I did a test-fit of the case into the van.......smidge too wide....so I spent the last hour and a half making it skinnier.
 
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