Without some sort if credit, you probably want batteries. But just 25% credit and you're better off buying more panels and forgoing battery.
Do you mind sharing some math on this?
Without some sort if credit, you probably want batteries. But just 25% credit and you're better off buying more panels and forgoing battery.
Do you mind sharing some math on this?
You could put in a switch to move the power from the grid system to the off-grid.I will add that based on what I can do with the 3kw of ground mount panels I put in for the off grid system, I'm pretty confident that if I could utilize the 9kw of grid tie panels on the roof for whatever I want, I could have a very comfortable life off grid in a SHTF scenario.
GT PV hardware costs about $1.00/W, maybe $1.10/W with RSD.
5 hours effective sun per day, I come up with $0.025 to $0.03/kWh amortized over 20 years.
I can overpanel GT PV for just the cost of PV panels and hardware, maybe $0.25 to $0.50/W. Multiple orientations, less clipping.
Lithium batteries look like they cost at least around $0.05/kWh over their cycle life, plus inverters that work with them cost more (unless a hybrid that is also your PV inverter.)
My wife uses the electric dryer at least every 2 days.You must not be married.
I just replaced a perfectly good electric dryer with a gas version, simply so I didn’t have to break down the how/why for my wife.
Clearance price $400 LG with smart features felt cheaper an easier. Hell I’d happily spend $400 to avoid the look on her face when I say to only dry clothes at certain times
My grid tie system is SolarEdge. The optimizers aren't compatible with anything else.You could put in a switch to move the power from the grid system to the off-grid.
I've never been able to train mine to not use the microwave and toaster oven at the same time while making a pot of coffee when the air conditioning is on. Upgrading to a bigger inverter than I need was the end solution.My wife uses the electric dryer at least every 2 days.
She is The Official Loads Tester when it comes to checking inverter output.
Your wife is my wife’s spirit animalI've never been able to train mine to not use the microwave and toaster oven at the same time while making a pot of coffee when the air conditioning is on. Upgrading to a bigger inverter than I need was the end solution.
Would it work if you bought a SolarEdge inverter and hooked it up to your off-grid system. Then switch the PV from one Inverter to the other?My grid tie system is SolarEdge. The optimizers aren't compatible with anything else.
I was told I can do whatever I want, as long as when she hits the on button it turns on. WAF Wife Acceptance Factor lolMy wife uses the electric dryer at least every 2 days.
She is The Official Loads Tester when it comes to checking inverter output.
That's why systems like this exist ?I've never been able to train mine to not use the microwave and toaster oven at the same time while making a pot of coffee when the air conditioning is on. Upgrading to a bigger inverter than I need was the end solution.
Assuming you pay $0.12/KWh, can you ever come out ahead going full offgrid?
That's an impressive motor. Pretty massive but the price reflect that also..diysolarforum.com
How many cycles are you using for battery calc? I get about 2 to 3 cents per kWh with my calculations.GT PV hardware costs about $1.00/W, maybe $1.10/W with RSD.
5 hours effective sun per day, I come up with $0.025 to $0.03/kWh amortized over 20 years.
I can overpanel GT PV for just the cost of PV panels and hardware, maybe $0.25 to $0.50/W. Multiple orientations, less clipping.
Lithium batteries look like they cost at least around $0.05/kWh over their cycle life, plus inverters that work with them cost more (unless a hybrid that is also your PV inverter.)
So I might as well add up to 200% maybe 300% more GT PV, no more than the cost of batteries.
Desire for grid-backup of course changes the equation.
If you pay for turnkey GT PV install, cost is more like $2 to $4/W, so battery may be more attractive in comparison.
Much less work, I think. Especially if just a Powerwall or similar AC coupled battery.
Watch out for bad panels that degrade, however. Counting on 25 to 40 year life. Or at least 20 year with above math.
That's why systems like this exist ?
How many cycles are you using for battery calc? I get about 2 to 3 cents per kWh with my calculations.
Grid tie has some major benefits but for many people is not as inexpensive as initially expected. Grid tie requires ul components and usually an engineered design, so sld cost is a factor, engineered racking is more expensive, required shutoffs etc , and of course it may have additional monthly fees.
doing some estimates for my particular use case, it seems I can actually get into a battery system cheaper than a grid tie system for the same monthly bill. I havent lived in this house in the winter so this is just based on summer months. Im sure winter number will change the equations.
That's funny because I was wondering the opposite- why not just one transformer? Most large loads are 240v so I wonder what large 120v loads they plan to powerCouple "5000W" autotransformers. (likely able to transfer 2500W)
I wonder how those are wired, all 120V loads downstream, protected so they never lose neutral? Way more inverter than transformer in that setup.
Do they fix all the ground reference issues we've tried to has out?
Having battery storage bench blocking grid breaker panels probably violates code.
You're supposed to have a certain distance in front of them, not blocked.
When operating a breaker, you should stand to the side with metal door shielding your face from it. Just in case.
Best thing that ever happened when we moved into this house about 8 years ago was the microwave was on the same 20A circuit as the window air in the kitchen and the refrigerator.I've never been able to train mine to not use the microwave and toaster oven at the same time while making a pot of coffee when the air conditioning is on. Upgrading to a bigger inverter than I need was the end solution.
The inverters that have grid connectivity, are they worth having? If you are never planning on selling back to the utility company but instead just have a transfer switch / sub panel to power your house?
The price difference is substantial, so if you are not planning on connecting to the grid should you still get a on-grid inverter?