diy solar

diy solar

Victron is Over-priced Eurotrash. Why would anybody buy Victron over an AiO?

This constant and over-the-top schilling for a single company's overpriced products has become both annoying and even disturbing. Why would anyone trust advice from any source that only recommends products from a single company?. It makes one appear to be a dishonest crook. However good the quality may be of Victron products, I will now go out of my way to avoid victron products.

We also drink too much colloidal silver...
 
Thanks those were the 32V units for 12/24 but there was a related link to the 70V versions yippee.

 
Are mega fuses “fast” enough for a DC bank?
 
Are mega fuses “fast” enough for a DC bank?
Oh my thought was a class t fuse between battery and the power in end positive terminal, with mega fuses in the power in for SCCs and loads. And then smart shunt between battery negative and power in end negative terminal. Like this as an example, but I'll have the class t by the battery terminals versus right at the power in. Now the problem is my cutoff switch is only rated for 48V max (blue seas 6006)
Screenshot_20240214_070513_Gallery.jpg
 
I use primarily magnum and Morningstar, but quality is quality and Victron is tier one. i would not be afraid to run any of their gear... other than the price... but then i do run Morningstar controllers so its not that bad.
 
I sold my jeep (cost me about $600/mo in just gas) and bought a tesla. I then bought 30kwh of eg4ll batteries, 2 eg4 6500ex inverters and 12x450 watt solar panels with the intention of using the money I saved on gas to pay for the system. Shortly after powering up the eg4 6500ex, I immediately hated everything about them; loud, runs REALLY hot, inefficient, 120/240v split phase kept losing sync with each other, and the software/solar assistant was just trash imo compared to VRM. I got rid of the 6500 ex and replaced them with 2x 5000va multi plus II and 1x smart solar 250/100. It cost me a little less than 2x as much as the 2 eg4ll. In total i spent about $11k for the initial set up but ended up at about $14k after the swap. (I have victron energy systems on my rv and loved the). The full system has been up for about 3 months now and I have been having to work on weekend, meaning driving more. I have saved around $2500 in gas so far by solar charging my car instead of gas for my jeep. So since my victron system was built to replace gas, and not the grid, the system will effectively be paid off by next year and every mile I drive after that will be "free." Sure, I could have charged from the grid and still saved a good majority of that, but then I wouldn't have my hobby/back up power when I lose power.
ouch. I so wish the 6000XP would have been out when you built your system. Have folks heard if 6000XP 120/240 split phase has sync'ing issues?
 
I use primarily magnum and Morningstar, but quality is quality and Victron is tier one. i would not be afraid to run any of their gear... other than the price... but then i do run Morningstar controllers so its not that bad.
The Morningstar puresine inverters are very appealing to me as they are totally passive with no fan noise.
 
Victron eh......the company recent AIO Multi RS Solar is tempting.....then I read the manual and it appears that it requires
1707913956713.png
another victron product (GX device?) instead of directly connecting the CAN communication cable to the Multi RS Solar itself............

Kinda......money grab? Clearly Victron can implement it directly in their AIO.......why would it require another product? :unsure:
 
Victron eh......the company recent AIO Multi RS Solar is tempting.....then I read the manual and it appears that it requires
View attachment 195422
another victron product (GX device?) instead of directly connecting the CAN communication cable to the Multi RS Solar itself............

Kinda......money grab? Clearly Victron can implement it directly in their AIO.......why would it require another product? :unsure:
I'm guessing that was done to save money. Also pretty sure you can just use a diy/non communicating lithium battery with that unit, that note just saying that if you do have a BMS-CAN capable battery you will need a Cerbo etc to enable the comms.
 
Victron eh......the company recent AIO Multi RS Solar is tempting.....then I read the manual and it appears that it requires
View attachment 195422
another victron product (GX device?) instead of directly connecting the CAN communication cable to the Multi RS Solar itself............

Kinda......money grab? Clearly Victron can implement it directly in their AIO.......why would it require another product? :unsure:
Here's a good summary of the differences between the multi RS solar and the easy solar (which does have integrated gx capabilities and decent surge capability.

Post in thread 'Multi RS Solar vs EasySolar-II - Comparison' https://diysolarforum.com/threads/multi-rs-solar-vs-easysolar-ii-comparison.70737/post-895953

Screenshot_20240214_081711_Chrome.jpg
 
I'm guessing that was done to save money. Also pretty sure you can just use a diy/non communicating lithium battery with that unit, that note just saying that if you do have a BMS-CAN capable battery you will need a Cerbo etc to enable the comms.
Exactly what I mean.......to save money, Victron can just integrate the function into the AIO itself.


Here's a good summary of the differences between the multi RS solar and the easy solar (which does have integrated gx capabilities and decent surge capability.

Post in thread 'Multi RS Solar vs EasySolar-II - Comparison' https://diysolarforum.com/threads/multi-rs-solar-vs-easysolar-ii-comparison.70737/post-895953
Hmm....seem like EasySolarII-GX is better option compared to Multi RS........
edit: oh wait...the panel string voltage limitation.....duh......
 
Yes, the cheaper value option without non Victron battery comms, and then the full featured unit which is basically three of their units in a single case (multiplus, 250/100 SCC and a mini GX). If you have the budget then definitely a lot more robust assuming you are ok with 250V max for your strings.
 
I'm assuming you are aware that those are 230/240V units only and can't be used in the US for 120V without an additional autotransformer.
 
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