Do I need to do anything special to use individual inverters for individual circuits?

OffGridInTheCity said:

I have 2 x 12,000w inverters that power separate circuits. And indeed, the efficiency rises ~7% (78% -> 85%) as I load them ~40% and greater. In winter/low PV I only run 1 to keep efficiency up as I don't run as many circuits to use all the PV. Each inverter goes to it's own distribution panel but they are cross-wired so that 1 inverter can run both in either direction.
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So yes, one can have multiple inverters from the same battery powering independent circuits.... one could do 10 inverters of 2000w each and even cross-connect the circuit distribution boxes to offer manual load management adjustments but the complexity rises as it's easy to temporary pull unexpected hi power from any 1 circuit.

Take my kitchen for example.... it has 2 x 20a circuits but on either one of them there are counter top plugs and microwave and refrigerator and k-cup and toaster ovens. Depending on what my wife is doing, power can go to the max with no notice or be low most of the time - very hard to 'manually' optimize at this level.

Also, I feed my inverter power via ATSs and having 10 inverters would required at least 10 ATSs to make this automatic with grid assist.

I did the 2 x inverters because I couldn't find a single cheap 24,000w. The manual efficiency game I play of falling back to 1 inverter in winter is more of a hobby than something I'd recommend as a deliberate design. The easier route might be to add few panels to make up for efficiency losses.

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Looks like a lot of packs of sweet tarts exploded and found a home in your basement.

ricardocello said:

Yes, but superb redundancy! what are the odds of all 8 failing at the same time?

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Well, it's percentage wise 8 times more likely to fail than just the one unit...
Just sayin' ...

It's a tiny home ... distances just aren't that great in one of these, and OP is wiring it up. I'd put in two inverters & battery banks, if you can find the room for them, or have an insulated/heated shed nearby:

1. big guy (24v) powering the high-draw long-running loads, but only at the patterns/times you do that (breakfast, lunch, dinner, etc.) ... if an aio, it's a simple on/off switch, doesn't take a long time to start. or, use an on/off relay with a bit of surgery, and now you've got remote control.

2. little guy (12v) powering the constant, low-draw and vampire loads, and it stays on all the time ... could be a low-draw victron 12v or 24v, and if sized right, would do all the lights, all the fans, all the little stuff, and occasionally a larger quick load. This powers, as sunshine_eggo labels it, "the background noise" load. Even this could be turned off at night, as that's 8 hours that vampire loads might not be needed.

You'd be amazed how quiet a house is, when *all* loads are off ... and, most of our devices are battery-operated to begin with. We've got countless battery-integrated, usb-rechargeable devices, and now go out of our way to make sure a device has that before we buy it.

Perhaps do an exercise where you find all the loads needed for the TH, and see if they and your *usage patterns* fall into line for the above. We definitely have patterns to our large loads ...

Use the same 12v300ah batteries (or 400ah, or whatever you can afford), and any of the batteries can be pushed around to support either system, or added to (use busbars) ...

Hope this helps ...