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What are good connection point techniques for solid connections

C

Chaucer

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Oct 1, 2022
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Hi ,

I recently installed 2 x 100 Lithium battery's and an 2000 inverter. I used 2/0 AWG wiring.

While running the 900W microwave, I checked my wiring and some seemed a bit warm...not hot.

I want to check all my connections. Besides correct torque values, is there any other good practices to do at connection points.

Thank you
 
Picture would be a lot more helpful.

2/0 copper wire at 100a for a few minutes shouldn't really get that warm. 150a+ getting close to maxing the inverter could though
 
justinm001 said:
Picture would be a lot more helpful.

2/0 copper wire at 100a for a few minutes shouldn't really get that warm. 150a+ getting close to maxing the inverter could though
Click to expand...
Hi, A picture of my wiring layout?

The warmest areas are the yellow circle and between the Class T and switch.

Thank you

Battery_Inverter 12_31_2023.jpg
 
Chaucer said:
Hi, A picture of my wiring layout?

The warmest areas are the yellow circle and between the Class T and switch.

Thank you

View attachment 209354
Click to expand...
A Pic of the actual wiring so we can make sure you didn't put a thin lug under a big one or missed a washer or something.

Not digging the 2 positives coming from the batteries either. A Lynx distributor would have been much better and likely cheaper
 
Chaucer said:
Hi ,

I recently installed 2 x 100 Lithium battery's and an 2000 inverter. I used 2/0 AWG wiring.

While running the 900W microwave, I checked my wiring and some seemed a bit warm...not hot.

I want to check all my connections. Besides correct torque values, is there any other good practices to do at connection points.

Thank you
Click to expand...
What voltage? That matters.
 
All the large 2/0 wire are single lug per stud.

I can take pictures, but what is recommendedso I can first check. Is it : Busbar/washer/lock washer/bolt.

TY
 
Chaucer said:
12V; Batteriesi parallel
Click to expand...
2/0 at 75 amps is getting warm? I would be looking at bad washer placement on the shunt and fuse, and also crappily crimped lugs.
There should be NO washer under the lugs.
Fuses can get pretty warm if they are near 3/4 of rating. What is the fuse rating?
 
If only some sections of wires are getting significantly hotter than others carrying the same current, it's likely due to bad connection/ crimp.
 
Warm enough to touch? After how long? 30 seconds? 3 minutes?

Check voltage drop across the entire system then start checking it across every component.

Specifically report back with that voltage drop across the shunt.

Roughly speaking... 900 watts/ 12 v =~90 amps after inverter efficiency. EG: .2 volts x 90 amps = ~18 watts of heat being generated by that shunt. Warm to the touch is just fine.
 
ScrotusGobbleBottom said:
2/0 at 75 amps is getting warm? I would be looking at bad washer placement on the shunt and fuse, and also crappily crimped lugs.
There should be NO washer under the lugs.
Fuses can get pretty warm if they are near 3/4 of rating. What is the fuse rating?
Click to expand...
The fuse is 225A.

I will check all the connections and confirm no washer under the lugs.
 
Chaucer said:
The fuse is 225A.

I will check all the connections and confirm no washer under the lugs.
Click to expand...
I have a 100 amp fuse that sometimes gets 80 amps. I have seen it at 130F on my thermal camera. Its an ANL fuse so not very comparable to a Class T. Im not sure which one would get warmer. Im sure someone here knows.

130F is pretty warm for sure.
 
OzSolar said:
Warm enough to touch? After how long? 30 seconds? 3 minutes?

Check voltage drop across the entire system then start checking it across every component.

Specifically report back with that voltage drop across the shunt.

Roughly speaking... 900 watts/ 12 v =~90 amps after inverter efficiency. EG: .2 volts x 90 amps = ~18 watts of heat being generated by that shunt. Warm to the touch is just fine.
Click to expand...
Ca
OzSolar said:
Warm enough to touch? After how long? 30 seconds? 3 minutes?

Check voltage drop across the entire system then start checking it across every component.

Specifically report back with that voltage drop across the shunt.

Roughly speaking... 900 watts/ 12 v =~90 amps after inverter efficiency. EG: .2 volts x 90 amps = ~18 watts of heat being generated by that shunt. Warm to the touch is just fine.
Click to expand...
Can you please provide me the technique to check voltagre drop so I do it correctly.
 
Chaucer said:
Ca

Can you please provide me the technique to check voltage drop so I do it correctly.
Click to expand...
It's super easy!

-Set your meter to DC volts (of course)

-Place your probes as shown in red below. Hopefully you get a very low reading. Like .1 or less. Your meter may require you to manually select mV.

1713138395930.png

-The shart checking around everywhere. Start with total system on both negative and positive side.

More Voltage Drop x More Amps = Heat


1713138635752.png
 
OzSolar said:
It's super easy!

-Set your meter to DC volts (of course)

-Place your probes as shown in red below. Hopefully you get a very low reading. Like .1 or less. Your meter may require you to manually select mV.

View attachment 209358

-The shart checking around everywhere. Start with total system on both negative and positive side.

More Voltage Drop x More Amps = Heat


View attachment 209359
Click to expand...
Got..it may take me a few days..I'm going camping solo next weekend and will have time to check all connectons.

The voltage drop just confused me a bit when checking the negative. So you just check the current between two points independant of positive or negative. TY
 
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