I have that exact one on my 200ah Chins 48v battery.Oke wy not use a breaker like this model?
I use this models for my self .
Its use in marine base systeem
It base on .Ceramics
I am adding one to every battery, Great idea.Oke wy not use a breaker like this model?
I use this models for my self .
Its use in marine base systeem
It base on .Ceramics
Those fuses are rated to interrupt 2,000A at 58VDC maximum. A bolted fault with parallel strings could exceed that rating, which is what happened in the OP's case; the Mega fuses are rated 1,000A at 58VDC IIRC.Oke wy not use a breaker like this model?
I use this models for my self .
Its use in marine base systeem
It base on .Ceramics
Correct, however there are also 70V MEGA fuses rated at 2.5kA (littelfuse sf51).the Mega fuses are rated 1,000A at 58VDC IIRC.
Those fuses are rated to interrupt 2,000A at 58VDC maximum. A bolted fault with parallel strings could exceed that rating, which is what happened in the OP's case; the Mega fuses are rated 1,000A at 58VDC IIRC.
A Class-T fuse in contrast is rated to interrupt 20,000A at 125VDC maximum.
You are right, Your english isnt great, but it is perfectly fine. I understood exactly what you wanted to say.Sorry my Engelse is not that great.
It wasn't the plastic that likely caused the OP's fire, it was the plasma arc that was caused by a fault greater than the interrupting capability of the fuse. The plasma arc then ignited an explosive atmosphere. For batteries installed in a confined space like a boat this is still a concern. (An arc fault can melt metal, so the difference between metal and plastic is insignificant. A ceramic fuse that is exposed to a current higher than its interrupting rating will not be able to break an arc.)But the fuse wat i use my self will not burn
No plastic house need it .
the mega fuse was not the problem, the not existing bms per paralel battery bank was.The plasma arc then ignited an explosive atmosphere.
You need both the BMS and the fuse for different reasons. We are in agreement on the OP's situation given the information available. (BMS logs would have been useful in determining just how quickly the battery failed and if the correct protection mechanism was a BMS alone or if a fuse was required to isolate the string.)the mega fuse was not the problem, the not existing bms per paralel battery bank was.
of course something else can ignite a explosive atmosphere if a cell vents hydrogen.
a class t fuse would not have saved his house
at all, again and again.
a fuse does not protect the battery a bms is needed on each paralel bank!
A fully boat that use full electric systeem and not fuel.You need both the BMS and the fuse for different reasons. We are in agreement on the OP's situation given the information available. (BMS logs would have been useful in determining just how quickly the battery failed and if the correct protection mechanism was a BMS alone or if a fuse was required to isolate the string.)
Personally, on a boat I wouldn't consider anything but a UL9540 battery installed fully within the manufacturer's parameters. I am not aware of a solution yet that is well suited to marine applications over ~15kWh on a single bus.
i agree.You need both the BMS and the fuse for different reasons.
You can use either connection. There are two connections so you can put boxes in parallelLooks like it is designed for two cables in parallel, only one burned up.
Were you using two? If so, it possible the undamaged one has slightly higher resistance, so the other one took the hit.
How much current was going through there? 50mm^2 welding cable is rated for 255-345A depending on manufacturer.
Not clear what the connector is rated for, but I would guess 200A.
Translation:I agree
But the fuse wat i use my self will not burn
No plastic house need it .
This is one of the reason we use it in boats.
Its direct by the battery and if a kabel break thanks to the water go up and down .
The systeem wil be save .
Do not forget a boat is steel (well what i have 12ton of steel)
Sorry my Engelse is not that great.
And i'm dyslexie (look up if you need to know what that is )
Is a good use for cars to boats and wy not use it in a house .
Just a safety by the battery.
But normal if a lipo4 is not diy model.
The bms had shut it down .
Other thing i use is a victron battery protect unit .
But that can only handel 220 amps continu on 12/24volt systeem so its not for use in a house.
Model Victron battery protect bp-220 .
Its just a extra save systeem i use so that i do not need the bms .
The systeem go off for that the bms shutdown to low volt or if thare is a problem by overload .
My lipo4 do 150amps continu and about 600amps for 10 sec .
After 3 time over the limit the systeem shutdown.
And i have to restart from the app .
The bms is for me a last save systeem .
But i life on the boat its my home.
So i have to have a good systeem .
If i'm on the sea (North Sea ) i'm alone if somtings happens.
No fire truck no help nothing .
A quality DC breaker like a Midnite MNEDC250 with 250A capability and 50,000 AIC rating will generally be in the $90+ range. It is nice to be able to use one as a battery disconnect as well.Can you just use breakers? Isn't it the same thing just you can reset it?
If the amp draw is on the graph, that means it came from the inverter. Right??if that is the data from the event? so you have a time scale to go along with it?