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diy solar

how much inverting power would you need to run your whole house 100% of the time

Yes. Just need the outside temp to be lower than the inside temp. Add "water wall" at an intake area (window/door) and you have a "swamp cooler." That can cool incoming air by 30F. i.e. 100F outside the "water wall," 70F on the inside of the "water wall." Being in a low humidity area helps.
A swamp cooler will essentially split the difference between the real temperature and the dewpoint. Works great in the desert where you have no water. 😁
 
A swamp cooler will essentially split the difference between the real temperature and the dewpoint. Works great in the desert where you have no water. 😁
Sure, you do need water. Our oversized unit used about 35 gallons of water in a day. But that’s still the less than 72 kWh of battery storage for nighttime air-conditioning use. But if you don’t have the water, then yes, it won’t work.
 
Yes. Just need the outside temp to be lower than the inside temp. Add "water wall" at an intake area (window/door) and you have a "swamp cooler." That can cool incoming air by 30F. i.e. 100F outside the "water wall," 70F on the inside of the "water wall." Being in a low humidity area helps.
Swamp coolers don't work in Iowa, you can get just slightly cooler air, about 2 to 5 degrees maybe but the humidity would be like standing in the shower with your clothes on. Today is like the tropics, air so heavy you could almost wring the water out. Showers keep firing off as this warm front/cold front keeps showers building. Rains, then sun comes out, rains again, sun comes out and keeps repeating. Expecting 3 inches by 10 pm.

The corn will shoot up 6 inches overnight with this muggy crap. Makes for some real nice bug hatches. Skeeters will be out in full force.

In the shop the mini split drain is running like a water hose. If I lived in an area of low humidity in the summer, I'd use a swamp cooler. Way cheaper to run. I remember using desert water bags back in my Twenty Nine Palm days, nice cool water.
 
Disclaimer: I currently work for a Carrier distributor in IT. I read things and talk to sales droids so I happen to know about these units. It is without a doubt the best one on the market, at least, as long as you don't ask the Trane guys about theirs, or the ... :rolleyes:

Every major HVAC vendor has a variation of these units, Trane, Goodman, etc. This is the future of Central air and will put the likes of MicroAir out of business at some point. Technology just keeps rolling along. Somehow people think the technology of a mini-split only exists in a mini-split. The big SEER advantage is the elimination of the ducting, but you stuff 20 mini-splits in your house, in 10-15 years you have 20 problems instead of one. Just don't fall into a trap, a mini-split can be a huge win as well depending on the application, but again, there is a reason we didn't stick with window units which are also more efficient.

So Carrier for example. . .

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Mini-splits are attractive because of the cost, but they ain't the same as central air conditioning.
Except the much rest of the world lives in everything from mud huts to double walled masonry structures to high rises. Many don’t have I joists. Many do have suspended concrete floors.

Asia, Africa, and Central and South America also have votes on what is demanded by the market.

Take East Asia. Even high rise apartments use mini splits.

Take the Middle East. Even a mud brick dwelling might have a mini split up on the roof.
 
So many options here… I supplement my home, though could install enough to do the whole home, but my roof line faces the wrong way, but I do have room for many trackers or ground mount. I currently run 2 Eco-Worthy trackers, one for my office building and one for my workshop. I use an MPP Solar inverter in my workshop with 3000 watts of EG4 batteries, and a Bluetti AC300 in my office with 3000 watts as well. My trackers are so efficient that I can add more battery and likely will. Oh BTW, we had a Tornado with 120mph winds and the tracker was unscathed with no broken panels and golf ball+ sized hail. I also have the EG4 hybrid mini-split with its own panels and it’s wired to the Bluetti since it’s in and for the office space. The reason I mention this is your design can be modular or targeted towards certain areas with possible changes. For example I will be adding the EG4 hybrid 24k btu mini-split in my living space to reduce load/demand on my 4 ton AC/heater. Also allows for easier AC/Heater when power is out and running on a generator or solar. Solar or not, the mini-split is so much more efficient then my 4 ton AC heat pump doing my vaulted space, that I can now have zones in my home. So your design may take these sorts of things into account to size your design. Also roof mounted panels are becoming an insurance issue, not covered, or will be soon, micro-investors seem to be the main cause it seems with fires as some states are doing, so be prepared this IS coming… additional insurance is likely the end game for insurers like earthquake or flood insurance. Another reason not to have roof mounted. Also our storm I mentioned prior did not cover removal or replacement of damaged panels on roofs of homes that had them, nor… removal and reinstall for the roof replacement shocking my neighbors.. and the additional price NOT covered by insurance. So lots to consider when designing your home. I have a hybrid 220v water heater, so a heat pump water heater also to reduce grid demand. Tax incentives can also pay for some of these improvements helping your design. In a cabin as I am planning a Bluetti type solar generator, Anker, Ecoflow, etc. could be considered too and take some or all of it with you when you leave if you want to shut it all down in the winter.
 
Been building out my solar power plant over a few years, each step adding in more of the base loads, based on what I can support with 13kW of PV. Which during summer is 'everything' but will not be the case come October-Nov-Dec.
Inverter output to run the whole house = 18kW does it for us, but we are also running a business next door, and ultimately we would need 24-30kW output, except retirement will cut off a good chunk of the power needed.
We plan on 24kW of inverter, 20kW of PV, 200kWh of battery ESS, plus two EV's with V2H capability. Grid as off-peak backup.
 

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