View with skepticism - Youtube claimant to run his house and charge Teslas

[Checkthisout]

10kW / 12V = 833A

That's why I didn't believe it. I guess it's possible.

Surges to 10k when the DeLorean it's installed in makes contact with the overhead line that's connected to the church steeple that just happens to get hit by lightning at that exact moment.

 

[Hedges]

Simply having an interlock installed in your primary load center may be insufficient and a violation of your utility service providers power agreement, city, county, state or National Electric Code requirements. That breaker in your panel doesn’t provide much of an “air gap” to disconnect your system from the grid. Conversely, a true manual and/or automatic transfer switches will “air gap” the disconnect sufficiently to prevent almost all possibility of a power bridge.

This is something I noticed and have thought about.

Circuit breakers do qualify as an "isolator". I think that is about 1" airgap (crammed inside a small molded case circuit breaker).
Visible blade safety switch is a large box, but if you examine it the blade doesn't pull all that far away from other contact. About 1".

Difference seems to be "visible blade", you can actually see it is open. That is what the utility required years ago.

A "supplemental protector" looks like a breaker but doesn't qualify as an isolator.


An interlocked breaker is sometimes used for backfeed by generator. Works the same backfeeding by inverter.
For an inverter, we put visible blade disconnect on its "grid" connection, where it implements UL-1741 anti-islanding and if firmware works right won't backfeed.
Output of inverter, fed to interlocked breaker, does not do anti-islanding.

 

[ksmithaz1]

That is the one real thing in my entire post. (not that I have one or would ever want one)

"This 10000 watt 12 volt inverter is the best on the market in its class . This inverter can handle nearly any application with its 10000 watt continuous capacity and 20000 watt surge capabilities (40 milliseconds). The Inverter Store sells hundreds of large 12 volt inverters every month, which is why we carry AIMS Powers newest most innovative version of the product in stock. This inverter is the first of its kind in terms of size and weight, making it far more flexible than any other inverter this size. Whether planning to use this inverter for off-grid cabin applications, mobile business or for a back-up power system in your home, this inverter will get the job done while also taking up the least amount of space possible. The biggest innovation regarding this inverter is its weight: a mere 21 pounds, which is unrivaled by any other inverter on the market with that wattage capacity. Its size is also remarkable, because it takes up less than half the space older models require. For jobs that require a lot of power, youd usually have to lug out an inverter thats more than 40 pounds, but those days are over thanks to AIMS Powers game-changing technology featured in this special 10000 watt 12 volt modified sine inverter. Converting DC to AC for you entire home no longer requires an inverter that weighs as much as a boat anchor, and you can thank this product! [FEATURES] 10000W max continuous power Modified sine wave with Pulse Width Modulation technology (soft start) Volt meter on front panel to monitor your battery voltage Amp meter on front panel to monitor your current use (rate at which battery is drained) Over Temperature LED indicator Over Load LED indicator AC direct connect terminal block On/off switch Over Temperature protection Over Load protection Single cooling fan thermally controlled Internally fuse protected AC output short circuit protection Auto reset on most fault conditions Aluminum case for optimal cooling Pre-wired for remote on/off switch Pre-slotted mounting plate [SPECIFICATIONS] Continuous output power: 10000 Watt Surge power capability (peak power): 20000 Watt DC input / operating voltage: 10 to 16 volts Output voltage: 120 volts AC +/- 10% Output wave form: modified sine wave with phase correction Output frequency: 60 Hz +/- 1 Hz Battery low voltage alarm: 10. 5 +/- 0. 5 volts Battery low voltage shutdown: 10. 0 +/- 0. 5 volts No load current:"

View attachment 203956

Wandering back thru. I call total BS. 10000/12 = 834A Your going to need a coupla 4/0 cables or maybe some 500kcmil, you ain't hooking all that to this thing. Gauge reads up to 120A, maybe 1500W (120X13). Which we plainly see on the label ("MAX 1500W). Not even 5000W. I think you'd struggle to get #4 connected to those lugs.

 

[MattiFin]

Wandering back thru. I call total BS. 10000/12 = 834A Your going to need a coupla 4/0 cables or maybe some 500kcmil, you ain't hooking all that to this thing. Gauge reads up to 120A, maybe 1500W (120X13). Which we plainly see on the label ("MAX 1500W). Not even 5000W. I think you'd struggle to get #4 connected to those lugs.

12v lugs seem to be on the other end of the inverter. Amp ”meter” seem to go up to 1200A and 1500W rating is for those wall outlets that are not rated for more than that anyways.

 

[Andrewr05]

This reeks of an "I'm a for hire inspector and not only do I not abide anybody having fun/being different, but they need to do things my way or else" vibe.

 

[littleharbor2]

Wandering back thru. I call total BS. 10000/12 = 834A Your going to need a coupla 4/0 cables or maybe some 500kcmil, you ain't hooking all that to this thing. Gauge reads up to 120A, maybe 1500W (120X13). Which we plainly see on the label ("MAX 1500W). Not even 5000W. I think you'd struggle to get #4 connected to those lugs.

From the manual,
12 Volt Model: 2x set of 4/0 AWG (2 red + 2 black) and quantity 2- ANL500KIT-500 Amp fuse kits for positive (red) cables.

Sems a bit excessive but still under what this beast is capable of. My god man, time to step up to a 48 volt system.

 

[Mattb4]

Wandering back thru. I call total BS. 10000/12 = 834A Your going to need a coupla 4/0 cables or maybe some 500kcmil, you ain't hooking all that to this thing. Gauge reads up to 120A, maybe 1500W (120X13). Which we plainly see on the label ("MAX 1500W). Not even 5000W. I think you'd struggle to get #4 connected to those lugs.

So I take it you will not be buying one? Think of the bragging rights if you had it hooked up to your truck's battery. When disaster strikes an area you could wheel in and supply everyone with power. I am sure it would work just fine with some 12 awg wires.

 

[OffGridForGood]

Easy to "run the whole house and charge a Tesla" on a smallish system, if the daily power use is low and the commute is to the living room to post another YT-vid.
For the average family, 30-50 kWh per day plus the EV use could easily be 70-100 kWh per day, higher if they run a lot of A/C, and depending upon local solar available, could require 20kW PV, and 10-15kW Inverter. If they can charge the EV during the day saves a lot of ESS-battery requirements in a system. A job where they work nights might be the best for EV charging from solar.

 

[MattiFin]

Easy to "run the whole house and charge a Tesla" on a smallish system, if the daily power use is low and the commute is to the living room to post another YT-vid.
For the average family, 30-50 kWh per day plus the EV use could easily be 70-100 kWh per day, higher if they run a lot of A/C, and depending upon local solar available, could require 20kW PV, and 10-15kW Inverter. If they can charge the EV during the day saves a lot of ESS-battery requirements in a system. A job where they work nights might be the best for EV charging from solar.

Looks really easy in most of the US compared to Europe, let alone the northern parts of Europe like Finland.

30 kWp panel set in december:
Alamosa, Colorado: 4100 kWh
Helsinki, Finland 295 kWh (the most southern part..)

 

[plympton]

For the average family, 30-50 kWh per day plus the EV use could easily be 70-100 kWh per day, higher if they run a lot of A/C, and depending upon local solar available, could require 20kW PV, and 10-15kW Inverter. If they can charge the EV during the day saves a lot of ESS-battery requirements in a system. A job where they work nights might be the best for EV charging from solar.

I'm sure these are accurate numbers, but really blows me away. My max in August last year was 24 kWh/day running the AC (granted, 12k window + furnace fan circ only), lots of Plasma TV time, server running 24x7, electric dryer (no line drying), and electric kitchen.

OK, curiosity kicked in and I checked that - it's almost exactly 30 kWh/day average in the US. Still, nice to be below average on this one!

 

[CaliSunHarvester]

My max in August last year was 24 kWh/day

I think the water heater is the #1 factor. Gas or electric? #2 is heating of the space, which in turn relates to house size, climate etc.
The national average of 30 per day will be difficult for an all electric house.

I got billed for nearly 18MWh in 2023, and that was with a 5kW grid tied system that produced about 6MWh, in other words, total consumption was 24MWh. And that was with the EV being charged off-grid.

We are friends with a family that lives in a 2000 sqft house, urban area, same zip code as us, they have gas and electric service by the PoCo. Their bill in summer is under $50 and in winter it's $75. The guy is my age, but no electronics in the house and they go to sleep at 6pm, so they never use electric light. No need to heat either.

On the other end, a 600 sqft cottage got PG&E bills of $455 and $465 in January and February. Occupant is a night owl and likes it warm. (Gas cooking and heat.)

 

[Hedges]

"Portland"

You probably don't use A/C, and you heat with gas.
But how much does your electric security fence consume? (I suppose that depends on how often people try to breach it.)

 

[plympton]

"Portland"

You probably don't use A/C, and you heat with gas.
But how much does your electric security fence consume? (I suppose that depends on how often people try to breach it.)

Lol! PDX the war zone trope. When the "riots" were going on, my Rochester co-workers asked me about it, and I said, "Wut?" so I went down that night to check it out. It was 4 blocks, 2 of which were Federal buildings. There were bullhorn speeches, and between 9p-10p, everyone was on their phone sitting around waiting for "the action" looking bored. I also got bored, and left, and as I got into my car heard commotion and apparently "the action" started.

I'm glad there's a negative view outside the bubble - keeps the migration down! Funny thing is, I lived in Rochester for 5 years - downtown is a scary wasteland!

Anyway, yes, little AC and heat with gas. Though that 117 (122?) degree week broke me and I got AC units after that, for sure. No suffering during the riots!!

 

[ksmithaz1]

So I take it you will not be buying one? Think of the bragging rights if you had it hooked up to your truck's battery. When disaster strikes an area you could wheel in and supply everyone with power. I am sure it would work just fine with some 12 awg wires.

Glowing 12awg wires... I looked online later. Saw some 24v/10KW no 12. DC is on the other side, still kind of light looking. They show like 4 #4, with the "kit" but they don't look to be fused. One pic showed a picnic table with a bunch of #4 or #6 spaghetti'd down to a bunch of batteries under the table, covered with a bunch of appliances, un-fused. It's amazing nobody has been killed yet. (What's that burning plastic smell?)

Free to air 4/0 is 400+ amps @ 75C. #4 is like 100A+, so I guess it'll be fine. What could possibly go wrong? 800+A is some serious current, that means 1000A busses in a portable box, but apparently you can . . .

 

[ksmithaz1]

I think the water heater is the #1 factor. Gas or electric? #2 is heating of the space, which in turn relates to house size, climate etc.
The national average of 30 per day will be difficult for an all electric house.

I got billed for nearly 18MWh in 2023, and that was with a 5kW grid tied system that produced about 6MWh, in other words, total consumption was 24MWh. And that was with the EV being charged off-grid.

We are friends with a family that lives in a 2000 sqft house, urban area, same zip code as us, they have gas and electric service by the PoCo. Their bill in summer is under $50 and in winter it's $75. The guy is my age, but no electronics in the house and they go to sleep at 6pm, so they never use electric light. No need to heat either.

On the other end, a 600 sqft cottage got PG&E bills of $455 and $465 in January and February. Occupant is a night owl and likes it warm. (Gas cooking and heat.)

July last year I hit 120KWH/day when the temps were banging 120F. HVAC hits close to 5KW with a 70% duty cycle. I've never seen 30KWH/day, just under 50 down near 45 when the HVAC never runs. If I turned off all my computer gear I might get close. I'm not sure where the usage really is, but it starts to be a question of scale. If I'm gonna need 120, saving 10 somewhere is just not going to get me super-excited. If you only need ~40, then saving 5 is much more significant, much less 10. It's still about demand.

 

[plympton]

July last year I hit 120KWH/day when the temps were banging 120F. HVAC hits close to 5KW with a 70% duty cycle. I've never seen 30KWH/day, just under 50 down near 45 when the HVAC never runs. If I turned off all my computer gear I might get close. I'm not sure where the usage really is, but it starts to be a question of scale. If I'm gonna need 120, saving 10 somewhere is just not going to get me super-excited. If you only need ~40, then saving 5 is much more significant, much less 10. It's still about demand.

Holy SH*T! That's like $25/day for power!

As for tracking it down, an Emporia meter and a Kill-a-Watt were super useful in collecting data. Moving the chokes to different circuits and turning things on to see the draw was... fun! Really helped inform which things to tackle first. LED's, wall insulation, keep chipping away. I have a mental model of what each action costs - kettle is a few cents, cooking much more, funny - a load of laundry is just $0.02! 2 Freaking Cents!

 

[Bop]

I really am surprised at so many doubting a 12v 10kW inverter- I am sitting here using an almost exactly one decade old 8kw continuous, 16kw peak inverter 12v inverter...
It was mounted in my ute until about 2019 (bought in 2014), when it was pulled out and running my caravan while building the shed, and has run 24/7 since then, with only a few short downtimes (moving the van from the camp site to the shed, and a week off when we had to evac for a huge bushfire that threatened my property...

It couldn't quite hit its full power, the battery bank can deliver the amps, but the main fuse is only rated at 630A (its a fuse that was left in the bottom of my toolbox from when I was an apprentice on the railways lol- in the 1980's...
I am planning on running the 12kw 48v inverter, but not until the house is finished- the caravan is 12v for its lights, water pumps and inbuilt tv, hence why I stayed at 12v at the campsite and then the shed
The 20kwh (16x 400Ah cells, currently in 4S4P, at 12v, eventually at 16S 48v) is well under its limits- at 12v, it can handle (in theory, I simply haven't gotten anywhere near it yet, even with the welder going) a maximum continuous discharge of up to 4800A, so the 8kw inverter wouldn't be stretching them at all- the weak point at this stage (and won't be upgraded either) is the cables and main fuse- the cables are 'doubled up' heavy duty truck starter motor cables (same size as used in a v8 16l diesel Scania truck...)

It's 'only' a 'temporary system', but (despite appearances) is totally safe, with both the inverter and loads fused, and is basically 'parts I had lying around' for much of it...

The 'spare fuse' (and only one I have) so hope I don't start blowing them lol)

So far from 'implausible'
(typed this post sitting in the caravan inside the shed, on a decade old 12v 8kw inverter...)

 

[Dagoth Ur Does Solar]

i ain't reading all that

i'm happy for u tho

or sorry that happened

 

[ksmithaz1]

Holy SH*T! That's like $25/day for power!

As for tracking it down, an Emporia meter and a Kill-a-Watt were super useful in collecting data. Moving the chokes to different circuits and turning things on to see the draw was... fun! Really helped inform which things to tackle first. LED's, wall insulation, keep chipping away. I have a mental model of what each action costs - kettle is a few cents, cooking much more, funny - a load of laundry is just $0.02! 2 Freaking Cents!

Off-peak is 0.08, on-peak depends on time of year: Winter ~0.11, Summer ~0.24, Hades ~0.28. 1400-2000 summer.

Everything is just a few cents. The problem is always too many "things". While we are in the shower, "we" toss the top we are wearing in the dryer to pop out the wrinkles. Only a few cents. I'm running about 300W continuous for all my computer gear. That's 7.2KWH/day (Plus the extra load on the HVAC tossing off 7200 watts of heat, but I digress). In summer:

(6*.3*0.28) + (18*.3*0.08)
.936

A buck a day to run my gear in July. $30/mo. Just a few cents here, a few there . . .
B4 Solar July/Aug ~ $400/mo

 

[ksmithaz1]

It's 'only' a 'temporary system', but (despite appearances) is totally safe, with both the inverter and loads fused, and is basically 'parts I had lying around' for much of it...

Looks umm safe? . . . I don't see a fuse inline. Loose screws, and a lightbulb laying around. Yellow green wire appears to connect to the (+)? Like ROMEX using all three leads as a single conductor from to battery. I'm not sure I would have posted that picture to demonstrate "safe". It looks a little scary as presented.