Building the sickest ® VAWT ever. Brilliant minds unite please!!

brandnewb said:

resistive load as if you expect the turbine to grind to a halt?

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No, your blades are huge.
Short circuit might or might not break something.

An 1800W 240V space heater fed 60V is a bit over 100W, good place to start.
A 120V model, 450W.

brandnewb said:

i just do not like those random jabs.

lets not allow for random jabs again

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Et Tu, Brutè!

I found a way.

I am not sure I want to try it though

Hook up the end to breast.
Hmm nothing happens it is too strong!!!


then I thought how about the buttocks muscles?

ahh auw auw ahh


stop it

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noooooooooooooooooooo



'

ayy



yes you see? good purpose

----------------


DISCLAIMER ALERT!!!
this was a joke. It is not a joke to put high powered stuff on your buttocks, or anywhere else/ Especially not near the heart.
It most likely will be lethal!!!!!
Get your game together and just understand that I am trying to entertain myself and my readers here.

but then all things considered.

what would be wrong with going in dry?

ooouuufff. we are in a high pressure pocket at the moment.

there is absolutely no wind to be had 0 nada noppes!!!!

I will continue though moving the battery cells and hand spin the turbine if I have to.

btw I added another set of steel strips to the arms.

now things are sagging less than before. But this wood has got to go sooner or later.

something like this for the triggerd auto folding mechanism perhaps?




yet I like the cassette style of recoil pull starters as found on some power tools like chain saws and what have we better.

I am sooo open to suggestions.

what we see here is one of 2 springs that balance my garage door. So it is easy for the motor that opens and closes the door to operate.

getting ready!!



I think you should as well!!

it is time!!

How do we proceed getting the data we need?

we are now in between 2 pockets of low and high pressure so winds are good now.

if not mistaken I think I already saw 45 watts at almost no wind speed!!

So please let us agree on the ground rules.
How to gather the data and how to lay them bare!!!

@OzSolar now more than ever we need realists like yourself to aid to the cause!!.

Please advice how to proceed.

Once again, a battery is a terrible test load because it will only use the power it needs, not all of the power your device can produce. You will never get an accurate picture of capability using a battery as a load.

I still suggest a bank of incandescent bulbs as a test load. The idea is that you can add more light bulbs to increase the load and get enough data points to chart amps vs volts for a (constant) wind. Ideally, you would have zero volts and high amps at zero ohms resistance (dead short), and high volts and zero amps at infinite resistance (open circuit). Note that both of those are zero power points, and the max power point is somewhere in between. Your job is to find it.

You are looking for enough different resistance points to get an accurate chart of everything in between open and short. Maybe four to seven watt incandescent bulbs like old night lights or Christmas lights (the old large bulbs) would work best. Just keep adding bulbs in parallel and measuring volts and amps. Work quickly so you can assume constant wind. Alternatively, use different wattage bulbs and don't bother putting them in parallel. Over here I could easily find 4, 7, 15, 25, 40, 60, 75, 100, and 300 watt (120v) bulbs if I needed to do such a test. If you get to 300 watts and still need more load, congratulations, you win.

If the wind is not constant enough, you can measure the wind, volts, and amps at the same time, then change the load and repeat until you either stall the mill, blow a wire, or have close to a dead short.

justgary said:

Your job is to find it.

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challenge accepted!

justgary said:

I still suggest a bank of incandescent bulbs as a test load.

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i tried once with car lights. I got intimidated because there was no clear + and - point.

please give me a rough schematic so I can break through this barrier.

A car headlight is 12V nominal, so your ~100V system may blow the filament unless you put several in series. House bulbs are rated for 220V in Europe, so they are a better choice. US 120V bulbs would be best.

A light bulb is like a resistor; it has no polarity. Hook either lead to whichever polarity you choose. Normally, a screw-based bulb has ground on the screw and hot on the button so you don't zap yourself when you grab it or lay it down.

Note that with three-phase power you will need three identical sets of loads unless you plan to rectify and combine the phases.

But OK to just put a bulb across two lines of the three.
That will load the generator mechanically, although electrical load is imbalanced.
Connect one bulb between L1 & L2, then another L2 & L3, then another L3 & L1.
Then add more in parallel.

Can connect multiple 12V car light bulbs in series.

Space heater would be lower resistance. And relatively constant resistance with load, unlike incandescent filament which increases in resistance 10x at operating temperature and voltage.

I agree about the space heater, but that is a pretty big load to start with. I like the idea of increasing the load by swapping/adding bulbs. The resistance change doesn't matter since the measurement happens at steady state.

I'll meet you in the middle: use seed heater pads. They area available from about ten watts up, so a fella could start small and work his way up to Sick (tm) loads, and then his spouse could use them to start tomato seeds in the spring. Everybody wins!

something like this?


Something to thaw the heart

Ahh no. this is 230 AC.

Hmm ok I will look some more

Exactly, although my Dutch is pretty poor. That's a 21 Watt one. Might be an OK size, but you will probably need several of them.

Maybe you can use them with your generator to start Weed after you start producing power. Then open a "Coffee Shop." LOL.

yeah no I never saw 45 watts it most likely read 4.5 watts. well that is a blunder by a factor of 10!! how embarrassing.

Today with good wind (around the 3m/s mark according to my hand held with gusts up to 4.2m/s) I have gotten bad results

The highest I saw was 27.6 watts and it broke the pulley that drives the PMA My heart broke a bit as well at the very moment


What I also notice it that it really fluctuates a lot. Not stable at all.

With most of the times wattages around the 4 mark. Sometimes even 0 to be measured. But plenty of spikes like the following



Now I can already tell that the solution would be simple.

You see I strongly believe that the inertia in the blades has more in store for us. Only how do we extract that energy?
Easy as pie!! Just make the PMA spin much faster and have coils with thicker and shorter wires.

ahahha if only things were ever that simple. so back to the drawing board it is getting this PMA to rotate much faster.


parallel to that of course I will hunt for plant heater matts

So according to the ever ambiguous omni wind turbine calculator we should have available, before any type of losses, 322.8 watts @ 3m/s wind speed having an 8m diam and 2.44m blade height.

27 watts is sooo way out of that mark that I am also starting to blame the blades. Those damned cups.
I am sure everyone knows but just for completeness 2 of them cups are working against the 3rd one pushing the setup around.

But lift types we are not doing this year. maybe in the future if really needed. maybe never!!

First Air Wheels (TM) deserve a fair chance to shine!! But that only after I have pushed the envelope regarding the PMA RPM in combination with our beloved cups .

ahh of course. I can also try not going for 8m diam. I mean if the RPM of both the turbine and thus the PMA is related to the diameter of the blades then who is to say that going wider is always better?
I want to try going narrower. It probably will increase the RPM and so match the available wind power better with what we can extract from it using this PMA without needing any changes other than a new pulley

also let us not forget how happy the wooden arms will be when going narrower

brandnewb said:

yeah no I never saw 45 watts it most likely read 4.5 watts. well that is a blunder by a factor of 10!! how embarrassing.

Today with good wind (around the 3m/s mark according to my hand held with gusts up to 4.2m/s) I have gotten bad results

The highest I saw was 27.6 watts and it broke the pulley that drives the PMA My heart broke a bit as well at the very moment
View attachment 225161

What I also notice it that it really fluctuates a lot. Not stable at all.

With most of the times wattages around the 4 mark. Sometimes even 0 to be measured. But plenty of spikes like the following

View attachment 225162

Now I can already tell that the solution would be simple.

You see I strongly believe that the inertia in the blades has more in store for us. Only how do we extract that energy?
Easy as pie!! Just make the PMA spin much faster and have coils with thicker and shorter wires.

ahahha if only things were ever that simple. so back to the drawing board it is getting this PMA to rotate much faster.


parallel to that of course I will hunt for plant heater matts

Click to expand...

yesss. I figured it out!!

Why it snapped where it did.

I know the solution is to just glue it fully and not only have a single tightener like before.

You see PLA is still not out of the race!!

now this is self promotion if I ever saw it.

should it be not tolerated I will take it down.

+

Yes we are having fun. Have as much as you can before it is too late

even though very funny and I see about the children on the marry go round.

do you really think this en devour is that infantile?