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I need help selecting a busbar size

Please keep discussion civil. Remember we all have different levels of knowledge and skills. We're here to help each other out, not attack one another for not knowing something.
 
@Santa the suggested link is a solid choice. The black one for negative and the red one for positive. Thinking about the function of a bus bar, it allows us to safely connect high current wires together. The selection requirements will be dictated by your loads. I'm about to nod off at the moment but I'll be back in the morning to try and clear up your question.
 
@Santa the suggested link is a solid choice. The black one for negative and the red one for positive. Thinking about the function of a bus bar, it allows us to safely connect high current wires together. The selection requirements will be dictated by your loads. I'm about to nod off at the moment but I'll be back in the morning to try and clear up your question.
I understand positive and negative, but why didn't Will use 2 in his blueprint? Its just confusing to add something I have no idea how to place it. Sweet dreams.
 
He's used the breaker terminal as a interconnection point. Since there's only a limited number of things in the mix - battery/inverter/charger - its a fair enough thing to do. If you had more devices a bar for + distribution would be the way to go.
 
You can use 2 bus bars, or 4, or whatever works for your components. Depends on how much space you have, and how many things you wish to connect. As long as everything is rated to carry the load, you can wire it however you wish.

I think I should make a video about this. Have seen a few questions about it. I think it is because people just want a direct blueprint to follow. But every system is different and it really depends on what is being connected. And yes, using a circuit breaker as an interconnection point works great. But it needs to be calculated to work for the components/wire so OCPD can protect wire and component from short circuit or overload situation.
 
When it comes to busbars, short answer could be "Trust me from experience, you want more than one." and a longer answer follow-up "When it comes to using DIY solar, you never seem to have enough spots to hook stuff up, because you will regularly be adding, changing, reconfiguring, etc.."

Coming from a background in ham radio, we never use chassis ground for anything. We always run a ground wire back to the battery for anything. That is where a negative bus bar comes in. I don't want a bunch of wires hanging off the battery ground, so a single wire to a busbar is a better choice for me. Same for the positive side.
 
@Santa what sort of loads are you looking at servicing? Never hurts to buy a busbar bigger than needed as they are relatively inexpensive.
 
You can use 2 bus bars, or 4, or whatever works for your components. Depends on how much space you have, and how many things you wish to connect. As long as everything is rated to carry the load, you can wire it however you wish.

I think I should make a video about this. Have seen a few questions about it. I think it is because people just want a direct blueprint to follow. But every system is different and it really depends on what is being connected. And yes, using a circuit breaker as an interconnection point works great. But it needs to be calculated to work for the components/wire so OCPD can protect wire and component from short circuit or overload situation.
That would be great if you did a video Will. I am trying to follow your blueprint to a T. So, should I buy a 250a busbar (that's the maximum it shows)? I clicked the link in your blueprint to select one, but I don't know which amperage to select. Looking forward to a video when you have time. Thank you for all you do!
 
I am making a new blueprint and board set up @Santa
A slight suggestion will. Apply the "Rule of Three". If you are asked the same question 3 times or more, it's time to write it up as one answer and post it to a "Sticky", reference section or FAQ list. This way when the Q is asked again, just point them there. It keeps things consistent, easier to update and saves a heap of time & effort as well. Much more fun ripping apart a pack than typing answers all day no ?
 
@Santa what sort of loads are you looking at servicing? Never hurts to buy a busbar bigger than needed as they are relatively inexpensive.
I am adding things up now. Most is just for shorter bursts, but a few like a fridge , laptop and light for longer time.
 
When it comes to busbars, short answer could be "Trust me from experience, you want more than one." and a longer answer follow-up "When it comes to using DIY solar, you never seem to have enough spots to hook stuff up, because you will regularly be adding, changing, reconfiguring, etc.."

Coming from a background in ham radio, we never use chassis ground for anything. We always run a ground wire back to the battery for anything. That is where a negative bus bar comes in. I don't want a bunch of wires hanging off the battery ground, so a single wire to a busbar is a better choice for me. Same for the positive side.
But how big should I select - in Amps? For Will's newest blueprint with the dc-dc renogy mppt alternator one? The link shows up to 250amp on the Amazon link. I plan to expand too. So, what you're saying is, all grounds will attach on the (negative) busbar on the wooden board you make right? I will get the red and black separately then. Will will be updating the blueprint he says. Thank you. P.S. After I get everything settled and on the road full-time I plan on learning HAM!
 
Don't forget your Coffee Maker and any items that have a parasitic draw even when not in use.

I have to share this: Coffee Maker ! Ohhh boy, people go blind in small ways costing them. How many "Energy Conservative" people realize that a Coffee Maker without a Thermal Carafe (simple glass carafe) are using one of the worst appliances out there for Solar Power ? Not Many ! and these are anywhere from 1200 to 1500 watts to boot. Using a maker tat has a Thermal Carafe that has no warmer is far more efficient. You also get better tasting coffee (doesn't get burnt by the warmer) and it stays hot till you empty the carafe, even 10 hours later !

One small and simple appliance that many of us depend on but one which can cost you huge power usage. I have used several of these ovr the decades and they haven't ben the easiest to find and some were downright junk (Black & Decker for one, leaked, zapped one daughter good (she was lucky) I have since discovered a Very Good one which I can only praise, se link below.

 
Don't forget your Coffee Maker and any items that have a parasitic draw even when not in use.

I have to share this: Coffee Maker ! Ohhh boy, people go blind in small ways costing them. How many "Energy Conservative" people realize that a Coffee Maker without a Thermal Carafe (simple glass carafe) are using one of the worst appliances out there for Solar Power ? Not Many ! and these are anywhere from 1200 to 1500 watts to boot. Using a maker tat has a Thermal Carafe that has no warmer is far more efficient. You also get better tasting coffee (doesn't get burnt by the warmer) and it stays hot till you empty the carafe, even 10 hours later !

One small and simple appliance that many of us depend on but one which can cost you huge power usage. I have used several of these ovr the decades and they haven't ben the easiest to find and some were downright junk (Black & Decker for one, leaked, zapped one daughter good (she was lucky) I have since discovered a Very Good one which I can only praise, se link below.

I do a French press now (pour over) or instant. Works great and only propane or butane used for about a minute and a half to heat the water. I put more hot water in a thermos for later if you want more. EDIT: unplug anything you don't use all the time. I do that at home and turn the circuits off at the circuit breaker in the sticks and bricks unless I use it every day. I've heard it called "vampire energy". In case anyone didn't know, unplug everything you don't use all the time per the Electric company. P.P.S. a rocket stove would heat the water with twigs for basically free!
 
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