All-In-One Solar Power System (12V) in Van Build

[shrekqween]

Has anyone built/is using Will Prowse's All-In-One Solar Power System (12V) and if so, how do you like it?

I am getting ready to build my electrical system and I am torn between building a variant of Will's "The Classic 400 Watt Solar Package", or going with the "All-In-One Solar Power System (12V)". I am also considering the 400 Watt Solar Package w/ Alternator Charging but I have concerns about messing with the vehicles electrical.

The main difference between the two, that I see, is that the All-In-One uses MPP Solar's Solar Inverter - this essentially combines the Solar controller, the Inverter and really anything else AC related into one box. I like that it even provides you with a line for shore power and an automatic transfer switch that can detect which power to draw from when charging up - solar or shore. The alternative, with either of the other 400W packages, would be buying the AC components individually, and building it yourself.

So I wanted to see if anyone was in the same position and ultimately, see what you decided to do and why. I can see pros and cons to both configurations.

I will also note, that I am aiming for a 400W system with 12V 200Ah LiFePO4 batteries.

 

[mikefitz]

A significant drawback to an 'all in one' like the MPP units, is a standby power consumption that will consume 25 % or more of your solar yield.
Your AC power need will effect your selection of components and even the choice of a 12 or 24 volt system.
There are many alternatives to the three variants you are considering with more reliable, but perhaps more expensive parts.
In my experience dedicated parts offer a more reliable performance and redundancy than units that combine functions.

Your style of use for the van will help optimise the selection of major components. For example if you intend to be off grid then AC charging is less important than alternator charging.

If you could outline you expected DC and AC power use then it would help those offering advice.

Mike

 

[shrekqween]

A significant drawback to an 'all in one' like the MPP units, is a standby power consumption that will consume 25 % or more of your solar yield.
Your AC power need will effect your selection of components and even the choice of a 12 or 24 volt system.
There are many alternatives to the three variants you are considering with more reliable, but perhaps more expensive parts.
In my experience dedicated parts offer a more reliable performance and redundancy than units that combine functions.

Your style of use for the van will help optimise the selection of major components. For example if you intend to be off grid then AC charging is less important than alternator charging.

If you could outline you expected DC and AC power use then it would help those offering advice.

Mike

Mike, thank you for your response!

So I will be living in this van full time with my boyfriend. A majority of the time, I hope to be boondocking, but I can see instances where having access to shore power would be nice. As far as power usage goes, I have come to the conclusion that I want to have a system that is capable of far more than I estimate, just for comfort and security. As of now, all that I can think of the system needing to do (in terms of AC power), is to power laptops, phone charging, cameras and a cooler that pulls about 45W/hour. Other than that, for DC, I have yet to decide on installing a maxxair fan or not. Mine is a passenger van with 8 openable windows, so not sure how necessary it is. I will probably install some better lighting. The other thing I am trying to determine, is what type of diesel heater I want.

Also, if you have a better system/components that you would recommend over what's included in any of those guides, please share. Thanks!

 

[Wakintx]

Mike, thank you for your response!

So I will be living in this van full time with my boyfriend. A majority of the time, I hope to be boondocking, but I can see instances where having access to shore power would be nice. As far as power usage goes, I have come to the conclusion that I want to have a system that is capable of far more than I estimate, just for comfort and security. As of now, all that I can think of the system needing to do (in terms of AC power), is to power laptops, phone charging, cameras and a cooler that pulls about 45W/hour. Other than that, for DC, I have yet to decide on installing a maxxair fan or not. Mine is a passenger van with 8 openable windows, so not sure how necessary it is. I will probably install some better lighting. The other thing I am trying to determine, is what type of diesel heater I want.

Also, if you have a better system/components that you would recommend over what's included in any of those guides, please share. Thanks!

Some inverters used in RV industry have built in transfer switches. I have a progressive Dynamics pd1618 inverter, 12v 1800watts that will switch to "shore power" if it's available otherwise it takes battery power and inverts it to 110v. I used it with a 30amp SCC to run small freezer, lights,fan, big screen tv.

My problem with it was I wanted to use battery as priority then grid power. Auto transfer switches can be purchased separately.

I switched to AIO units, can be put into power save mode but also if you turn off the inverter you can have smaller watt inverter(s) connected to the battery that have lower idle consumption.

Having no DC clamp amp meter I don't know my AIO idle consumption but question people claiming 25 percent.

I also have a small 1600watt AIO I've only played with but left it turned on connected to 2 SLA 100amp batteries for a week and the batteries were still strong and that little unit doesn't have a power saving mode.

Idk if this helps, I like the simplicity andAIO hybrid inverter offers in priority of grid/solar/battery prioy

 

[Rednecktek]

The other thing I am trying to determine, is what type of diesel heater I want

As someone with 4 of those, I can give you a few pointers:

1: Get the kit, NOT the all-in-one-pre-housed version.

2: Look for an 8kw model with the coil of WHITE fuel line. You can run an 8kw at 5kw, but not the other way around as the only difference is the firmware.

3: Make sure the controller is an LCD display and NOT a turn knob.

4:They're all made in the same factory so the extra bits are the important part.

5: Spend the $12 on the pink pump silencer and a few bucks on spare gaskets, fuel screens, and glow plug. Having spares is important.

6: The muffler has a hole in the side that needs to be at the lowest point in the exaust.

If you PM me I can send you a link to the step-by-step teardown and cleaning guide I made for my cabin.

 

[shrekqween]

Some inverters used in RV industry have built in transfer switches. I have a progressive Dynamics pd1618 inverter, 12v 1800watts that will switch to "shore power" if it's available otherwise it takes battery power and inverts it to 110v. I used it with a 30amp SCC to run small freezer, lights,fan, big screen tv.

My problem with it was I wanted to use battery as priority then grid power. Auto transfer switches can be purchased separately.

I switched to AIO units, can be put into power save mode but also if you turn off the inverter you can have smaller watt inverter(s) connected to the battery that have lower idle consumption.

Having no DC clamp amp meter I don't know my AIO idle consumption but question people claiming 25 percent.

I also have a small 1600watt AIO I've only played with but left it turned on connected to 2 SLA 100amp batteries for a week and the batteries were still strong and that little unit doesn't have a power saving mode.

Idk if this helps, I like the simplicity andAIO hybrid inverter offers in priority of grid/solar/battery prioy

Thank you for your response! I have been leaning towards getting an AIO for the pros you listed above. Do you have any experience with building a system that has an AIO, but also has a DC-DC charging capability via the alternator?

 

[shrekqween]

As someone with 4 of those, I can give you a few pointers:

1: Get the kit, NOT the all-in-one-pre-housed version.

2: Look for an 8kw model with the coil of WHITE fuel line. You can run an 8kw at 5kw, but not the other way around as the only difference is the firmware.

3: Make sure the controller is an LCD display and NOT a turn knob.

4:They're all made in the same factory so the extra bits are the important part.

5: Spend the $12 on the pink pump silencer and a few bucks on spare gaskets, fuel screens, and glow plug. Having spares is important.

6: The muffler has a hole in the side that needs to be at the lowest point in the exaust.

If you PM me I can send you a link to the step-by-step teardown and cleaning guide I made for my cabin.

Fantastic, I will PM you. Thanks!

 

[AnarchyJet]

Just my opinion but I were you, these are the components I would use. Since you will live here, I would upgrade to better components that a cheap AIO.
Multiplus 2000 - Great inverter efficiency, gives battery charging and shore power options, can turn on/off remotely
EPEVER 40 - Try to over panel by fitting 3 200w panels. Flat roof mount will not be optimal. I don't see the need to pay the premium for a Victron SCC
Victron DC-DC - Make sure your alternator has the capacity to feed this 40 amps.
Shunt - Basic monitoring

 

[Rednecktek]

Shunt - Basic monitoring

If you want to save a buttload of money, the Aili shunt is a very popular choice at less than $50, and if you want a little fancier, Renogy makes a nice one for a little more. Personally, unless you're one of those people who NEEDS their phone to do anything, the extra expense of the Victron isn't worth it. But then again I work for a living.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

If you want to save a buttload of money

I’ve been using a 1012LV-MK for eight months now. 800W of panels. $600. Works great, built-in shorepower charger, and SCC works even if inverter switch is turned off.
I’d recommend that.

 

[Wakintx]

Mike, thank you for your response!

So I will be living in this van full time with my boyfriend. A majority of the time, I hope to be boondocking, but I can see instances where having access to shore power would be nice. As far as power usage goes, I have come to the conclusion that I want to have a system that is capable of far more than I estimate, just for comfort and security. As of now, all that I can think of the system needing to do (in terms of AC power), is to power laptops, phone charging, cameras and a cooler that pulls about 45W/hour. Other than that, for DC, I have yet to decide on installing a maxxair fan or not. Mine is a passenger van with 8 openable windows, so not sure how necessary it is. I will probably install some better lighting. The other thing I am trying to determine, is what type of diesel heater I want.

Also, if you have a better system/components that you would recommend over what's included in any of those guides, please share. Thanks!

Some inverters used in RV industry have built in transfer switches. I have a progressive Dynamics pd1618 inverter, 12v 1800watts that will switch to "shore power" if it's available otherwise it takes battery power and inverts it to 110v. I used it with a 30amp SCC to run small freezer, lights,fan, big screen tv.

My problem with it was I wanted to use battery as priority then grid power. Auto transfer switches can be purchased separately.

I switched to AIO units, can be put into power save mode but also if you turn off the inverter you can have smaller watt inverter(s) connected to the battery that have lower idle consumption.

Having no DC clamp amp meter I don't know my AIO idle consumption but question people claiming 25 percent.

I also have a small 1600watt AIO I've only played with but left it turned on connected to 2 SLA 100amp batteries for a week and the batteries were still strong and that little unit doesn't have a power saving mode.

Idk if this helps, I like the simplicity andAIO hybrid inverter offers in priority of grid/solar/battery prioy

As someone with 4 of those, I can give you a few pointers:

1: Get the kit, NOT the all-in-one-pre-housed version.

2: Look for an 8kw model with the coil of WHITE fuel line. You can run an 8kw at 5kw, but not the other way around as the only difference is the firmware.

3: Make sure the controller is an LCD display and NOT a turn knob.

4:They're all made in the same factory so the extra bits are the important part.

5: Spend the $12 on the pink pump silencer and a few bucks on spare gaskets, fuel screens, and glow plug. Having spares is important.

6: The muffler has a hole in the side that needs to be at the lowest point in the exaust.

If you PM me I can send you a link to the step-by-step teardown and cleaning guide I made for my cabin.

Nice information, I've been thinking about buying one diesel heater for another alternative heat source too?

 

[Rednecktek]

I also have a small 1600watt AIO I've only played with but left it turned on connected to 2 SLA 100amp batteries for a week and the batteries were still strong and that little unit doesn't have a power saving mode.

1600w? Link please? I've never seen anything between 1kw @12v, and 2400w @ 24v. It sounds interesting.

 

[Wakintx]

Thank you for your response! I have been leaning towards getting an AIO for the pros you listed above. Do you have any experience with building a system that has an AIO, but also has a DC-DC charging capability via the alternator?

No, all I have done is read about it. Our travel trailer is setup in our backyard, energized and heated and cooled but basically unused except to keep it alive, storage kills them.

1600w? Link please? I've never seen anything between 1kw @12v, and 2400w @ 24v. It sounds interesting.

It's a makeskyblue 2kva. I don't think they should really call it an all-in-one because the two KVA does not have a battery charger it only has the mppt charge controller and the inverter. They're larger offerings in the same series have an AC battery charger. But it does have pass through of AC voltage either from the generator or a grid. I will pull post a link to the product here

2KVA 1600W Hybrid Pure Sine Wave MPPT Solar Inverter, 12V DC to 120V AC, Off Grid Tie

2KVA 1600W Hybrid Pure Sine Wave MPPT Solar Inverter，12V DC to 120V AC Off-grid tie Pure sine wave inverter Built-in MPPT solar charge controller Selectable input voltage range for home appliances and personal computers Selectable charging current based on applications Configurable AC/Solar...

makeskyblue.com

 

[12VoltInstalls]

It's a makeskyblue 2kva.

It’s a pwm and cloney for $125 and that is disconcerting for a 1200W/60VOC solar charger. There’s cheap- and there’s cheaper
Another 24V but it is pure sine it says
The Giandel light duty hybrid pwm/inverter is modsine and not programmable but at least there’s a lot of people that trust the brand. But too much money when another $100ish buys pure sine and an mppt SCC

Once you start thinking LiFePo and have the slightest consideration for longer term use a QZRELB/WZRELB/Reliable 2000W inverter or Giandel inverter and at the very least a powrMR or better an Epever raises the price of entry but at least they work dependably most often.

EDIT: Thinking about ‘going cheap’ in your case… I’d not advise a cheapo hybrid or AIO but instead just do the ‘normal’ cheap and grab an Epever SCC and some inexpensive pure sine inverter with half a reputation, or look into the victron 12V/3000W plug’n’play unit. In between is MPPSolar but they don’t have more than 1000W output for the 12V units.

 

[Wakintx]

SOI your response is not making sense unless you are stating that the makeskyblue AIO in my link is actually PWM. Or part of your reply is missing?

It’s a pwm and cloney for $125 and that is disconcerting for a 1200W/60VOC solar charger. There’s cheap- and there’s cheaper
Another 24V but it is pure sine it says
The Giandel light duty hybrid pwm/inverter is modsine and not programmable but at least there’s a lot of people that trust the brand. But too much money when another $100ish buys pure sine and an mppt SCC

Once you start thinking LiFePo and have the slightest consideration for longer term use a QZRELB/WZRELB/Reliable 2000W inverter or Giandel inverter and at the very least a powrMR or better an Epever raises the price of entry but at least they work dependably most often.

EDIT: Thinking about ‘going cheap’ in your case… I’d not advise a cheapo hybrid or AIO but instead just do the ‘normal’ cheap and grab an Epever SCC and some inexpensive pure sine inverter with half a reputation, or look into the victron 12V/3000W plug’n’play unit. In between is MPPSolar but they don’t have more than 1000W output for the 12V units.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

It's a makeskyblue 2kva.

It’s a pwm and cloney for $125 and that is disconcerting for a 1200W/60VOC solar charger. There’s cheap- and there’s cheaper

SOI your response is not making sense unless you are stating that the makeskyblue AIO in my link is actually PWM. Or part of your reply is missing?

yups
My first paragraph is…not here.

Summary $560 if that really will do 1600W is pretty cool. Wonder what idle consumption wattage actually is.
My current 1012LV-MK is very very excellent in performance and price- except its 1000W inverter is too small. 1kW won’t start my shopvac or plastiCraftsman table saw; fridge has a shaking epileptic seizure if it tries to start and coffeemaker is running. If that is truly 1500W capable that’s awesome. My Giandel 1200W psw will start all above no issues (although I haven’t tried it with the latest fridge while coffee is brewing).

 

[kbeefy]

Has anyone built/is using Will Prowse's All-In-One Solar Power System (12V) and if so, how do you like it?

No Experience, but it's a pretty small inverter and has high idle consumption. $425 could probably be spent better.

I am also considering the 400 Watt Solar Package w/ Alternator Charging but I have concerns about messing with the vehicles electrical.

I'm working on a hybrid of that at the moment....

 

[Wakintx]

It’s a pwm and cloney for $125 and that is disconcerting for a 1200W/60VOC solar charger. There’s cheap- and there’s cheaper

yups
My first paragraph is…not here.

Summary $560 if that really will do 1600W is pretty cool. Wonder what idle consumption wattage actually is.
My current 1012LV-MK is very very excellent in performance and price- except its 1000W inverter is too small. 1kW won’t start my shopvac or plastiCraftsman table saw; fridge has a shaking epileptic seizure if it tries to start and coffeemaker is running. If that is truly 1500W capable that’s awesome. My Giandel 1200W psw will start all above no issues (although I haven’t tried it with the latest fridge while coffee is brewing).

I actually purchased it from one of the sellers that has misdirected and lost freight. Apparently brand new in the box however looking at the serial number I wonder if it was built in 2019?

I don't know and I've asked make sky Blue for more information because it doesn't the version I have is older and they don't tell you anything to set up user programmable charging discharging etc boost charge points. It's all a mystery so I've only used it with lead acid
I was able to find the older users manual online and download it because the current model shows a lithium battery type but doesn't tell you what the charging parameters are. This older one that I have has a user setting but doesn't let you program much.

I don't use it although I have a couple renergy lead acid batteries sitting here. Put it to use running a small freezer chest type in a remote workshop in the corner of our yard just to do something with it

 

[kbeefy]

As of now, all that I can think of the system needing to do (in terms of AC power), is to power laptops, phone charging, cameras and a cooler that pulls about 45W/hour. Other than that, for DC, I have yet to decide on installing a maxxair fan or not

Spend a little time and make as much as possible run off DC. All the AC loads you list should be compatible with some sort of DC charger.
My last 'camping trip' was 45 days and the only thing I used AC for was charging my electric razor. Wifey sometimes uses a hair dryer but only when we showered at somewhere with shore power. I carried a small inverter in case I needed to recharge some higher voltage hand tools but never had the need. My current build has a microwave so I have a much larger inverter (2000w) but that and the hair dryer may be our only use for it.

The Maxxair or Fantastic fan are worth it, plan on adding one. Vans can get... stuffy.

 

[Wakintx]

It’s a pwm and cloney for $125 and that is disconcerting for a 1200W/60VOC solar charger. There’s cheap- and there’s cheaper
Another 24V but it is pure sine it says
The Giandel light duty hybrid pwm/inverter is modsine and not programmable but at least there’s a lot of people that trust the brand. But too much money when another $100ish buys pure sine and an mppt SCC

Once you start thinking LiFePo and have the slightest consideration for longer term use a QZRELB/WZRELB/Reliable 2000W inverter or Giandel inverter and at the very least a powrMR or better an Epever raises the price of entry but at least they work dependably most often.

EDIT: Thinking about ‘going cheap’ in your case… I’d not advise a cheapo hybrid or AIO but instead just do the ‘normal’ cheap and grab an Epever SCC and some inexpensive pure sine inverter with half a reputation, or look into the victron 12V/3000W plug’n’play unit. In between is MPPSolar but they don’t have more than 1000W output for the 12V units.

I just had to make another reply here. I carefully watch Facebook marketplace Craigslist even OfferUp or nearby or some of these other shopping apps and I managed to snap up an 1800 Watt progressive Dynamics inverter that was being removed from a brand new RV so they could put in a $3, 000watt inverter and it even came with 6 ft of battery cables and yes I got it for $60.

And my solar panels were used found on Facebook marketplace and I had to drive almost 2 hours in two different directions to pick up the panels I have plus I plan to go up to the Dallas-Fort Worth area where Beane Brothers resale panels to purchase even more

My 30w srne manufactured solar charge controller one of the ones that does 1224.36 and 48 volts was also on fleabay at a different seller of open box and Miss routed freight and I think I only paid $70 for it?

Unfortunately I purchased Weize 100 amp 12 volt life po batteries after will did his tear down and they have cold weather protection although I probably won't really need that but he seemed like the build quality was decent. And now those are out of stock I guess they can't get them on a boat from China quick enough and I need to buy more to have matching batteries or I would have to start all over. And yes I switched to 24 volts for my house based stuff.