diy solar

diy solar

Can you run 2 devices off 1 charge controller

Austin68

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2020
Messages
60
I currently have a solar panel that is keeping a 12v battery charged for a electric fence shocker. I am wondering if its possible to run a inverter and the fence shocker off the same controller, and if so how would you wire that up? Would you just put the leads for the inverter in the same terminals as the fence shocker is in?
 
Can you give us a bit more information?
What is the charge controller? Does it have a load output terminal? What is the solar panel wattage? How much load do you want to run on the inverter? For how long?

Yes, you can connect an inverter to the battery and it will give you power. The reason for the other questions is to see how long this might work and if you might damage the battery.

The solar panel provides the energy. Depending on where you are, the time of year, and weather you can figure out how much energy is actually usable. I am in So Cal, and on average at this time of year, we can still get over 4 "sun hours" which basically means that here in early November, I can get 400 watt hours per day from a 100 watt solar panel. Sun hours x Panel watts = Watt Hours of energy. If you have a 100 watt solar panel, a 300 watt inverter, and want to run a 200 watt power drill for an hour, no problem. Want to keep a refrigerator running all night, nope. You will need more solar panel. You probably would also need more battery. The charge controller takes the energy from the solar panel and charges the battery and should stop the charge to prevent overcharging. If the controller has a load terminal, it may also have a cut off to keep you from pulling the battery too low. Pulling a battery below safe levels will damage the cells and greatly reduce capacity. The battery is what actually is running the loads. In your case it is just the fence shocker now. It should have a spec on it for how much power it uses in a day. As long as the solar panel is making more watt hours than you use, it all works fine. When you add the inverter, you will pull more from the battery. If it is still less than the solar makes, you are fine. You may even get away with using a bit more one day, as long as it can get it back the next day. If you need a constant load, then you need to make sure the solar can keep up. If you are only going to use it when the sun is up, then the battery size is not too important, but if you want to use the power over night, then the battery needs to store all of the power while the sun is up for you to use when the sun is down.

So if you have an idea how much power you need and when, and what the solar can produce, then we can help you figure out what can work and what may need to be upgraded.
 
Apologies. Let me try to explain this better. I have a 30 watt panel that is currently running a DC powered fencer shocker. In the area of the panel I am wanting to add a security camera and would like to use the setup I already have. The camera is AC powered. So I'm wanting to know if you can have a dc powered device (fence shocker) and a inverter running off the same controller? I dont know the make or model of the controller off the top of my head. Im not so concerned about it having enough power as much as if what I'm wanting is a possibility. I can provide pictures of my setup if that would help. Im really new to solar and don't understand everything the best, so please forgive me.
 
Does the camera use a wall pack? I have a few different net cams I use around my home and they all actually run on 5 volts DC with a wall pack. You can likely use a DC-DC converter to run the cam. An inverter will work, but that is more losses.

30 watts is pretty small. Even at 4 sun hours that is just 120 watt hours. That only gives you 5 watts for the whole day (120 WH / 24 H = 5 W)
That is probably just enough to run the electric fence shocker. My lowest power WiFi web cam needs about 5 watts to operate. Solar panels can run a lot of things, but I think you are going to need a bot more solar panel. Try to find the ratings on the battery, charge controller, fence shocker, and the cam you want to use.
 
Looks like the camera requires 6 watts. The fence shocker i have no idea. I had found a place that was selling solar setups for electric fences and they had a 30 watt panel running a 3 joule output shocker. Mine is only a 1 joule output so I figured this panel would be enough. I had tried to find info on how much power the shocker took, but never could find anything. The battery I will have to check, its a deep cycle but as for its AH rating i will have to look.
 
Unless you are near the equator, a 30 watt panel won't be enough to run the camera 24/7 in the winter.
6 x 24 = 144 watt hours needed. 144 / 30 = 4.8 sun hours with zero losses. Even here in So Cal I am not getting that for 1/4 of the year. To be on the safe side, you need at least a 100 watt panel to keep the camera alive.

For the battery, it should be sized so that 1/2 capacity can run the camera all day. So at least 288 watt hours of battery for just the camera. That works out to 24 amp hours at 12 volts. That is a pretty good sized battery. My UPS that keep my PC alive for 20 minutes is a 10 amp hour battery.

If the camera is not mission critical, and you are okay with it possibly cutting out for a few hours before the sun comes up, you might be able to cut the solar panel and battery a little, but even at the 100 watt panel and 24 amp hour battery, it is going to be close if you have a cloudy day. My system will drop to half energy output when clouds move in.
 
Wow really?! I wouldn't have expected the camera to use that much more then the fence shocker. Guess my plan won't work. I greatly appreciate your assistance on this.
 
You know the fence outputs approx 1 joule per pulse so all you really need to know is the pulse rate. If the fence fires every 10 seconds and we assume an efficiency of 50% (this is a typical efficiency, 2 joules in for every 1 out) the average wattage is ... 0.2W, < 20mA at 12V. The actual draw will be a resetting slope of some kind but since there is a battery involved, you can ignore that and just use the average.
 
Back
Top