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Help with 128 batteries each one is 280ah, and want to configure for 48v system.

You could directly connect your inverter, but you might want to have a contactor or shunt trip breaker between the battery and the inverter so the Batrium can offline the battery. That might be moot if Batriums can talk to the Sol-Arks. I have no idea if they can. I use a shunt trip breaker that offlines the battery from one inverter and 3 charge controllers.
Do you have a link or suggested shunt trip breaker that hooks up to Batrium? Batrium does not talk with Sol-Ark.
 
Do you have a link or suggested shunt trip breaker that hooks up to Batrium? Batrium does not talk with Sol-Ark.



I used one like this:


You may have to shop around for one with larger amp rating or use two since you have two inverters. You could easily use two with the batrium (assuming you have the expansion board). You might want to see how your inverters handle being disconnected from the battery while under load.

If you get a shunt trip, make sure it's 24v (or if you can find one that will work with battery voltage). There are a few youtubes on wiring like
. I went the route like this guy did with a 48v->24v converter which powers the batrium and provides power for the shunt trip. The Batrium will run on up to 65 v and you can tap your battery for 24v for the shunt, but I didn't know if I would add any other gadgets like fans and 24v is common. So I went with a converter.
 
Do you have a link or suggested shunt trip breaker that hooks up to Batrium? Batrium does not talk with Sol-Ark.
Older post testing batrium and shunt.
Shunts are hard to get the breakers are decently easy.
 
Do you have a link or suggested shunt trip breaker that hooks up to Batrium?

FYI - Sol-Ark strongly discourages using a shunt trip breaker on the battery side. Can damage the inverter I guess. I believe you would have better success leveraging the 12v RSD switch via Batrium relay. Ex. A cell voltage exceeds some set limit trip the RSD relay and the solark shuts down.
 
FYI - Sol-Ark strongly discourages using a shunt trip breaker on the battery side. Can damage the inverter I guess. I believe you would have better success leveraging the 12v RSD switch via Batrium relay. Ex. A cell voltage exceeds some set limit trip the RSD relay and the solark shuts down.
Thanks for the FYI. I’ll look more into that. Not familiar with 12v RSD? I’ll do research but is the RSD an added external item or a feature of the Sol-Ark I’m not familiar with, yet?
Thanks again for the FYI.
 
Thanks for the FYI. I’ll look more into that. Not familiar with 12v RSD? I’ll do research but is the RSD an added external item or a feature of the Sol-Ark I’m not familiar with, yet?
Thanks again for the FYI.

RSD is standard functionality with the Sol-Ark. There are a couple members I believe that are using the switch already on the board (that is where I got the idea - I don't have it setup yet with my system). ex: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/solark-install-plan.15698/page-4#post-226620
 
RSD is standard functionality with the Sol-Ark. There are a couple members I believe that are using the switch already on the board (that is where I got the idea - I don't have it setup yet with my system). ex: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/solark-install-plan.15698/page-4#post-226620
Great, thanks for the link info. So if you have not yet setup the RSD, how do you have your batteries currently connected to Sol-Ark? Do you have automated battery shutoff/separation system or just fuses etc for now?
I have two bussman class T fuses I plan on installing, one for each Sol-Ark. I really haven’t thought much about putting a “shunt/RSD” type of shut off/separating system inline. My thoughts is Batrium would disconnect batteries if parameters were violated......
 
Several members in this thread have Batrium setup. Did any of you guys have trouble when doing the bypass test on your setup?
I started my Batrium up this afternoon and all went well until the bypass test. 1- 64 Blockmons and it repeatedly failed after 5 going to 6. I changed out the Blockmon, cables, changed minimal temps setting in bypass test options. Any suggestions?
 
Several members in this thread have Batrium setup. Did any of you guys have trouble when doing the bypass test on your setup?
I started my Batrium up this afternoon and all went well until the bypass test. 1- 64 Blockmons and it repeatedly failed after 5 going to 6. I changed out the Blockmon, cables, changed minimal temps setting in bypass test options. Any suggestions?
Has everything else passed,wizard setup, device sync? I made changes one time and forgot to sync and that caused the bypass to fail.
 
Yes that's what's crazy. everything went well. re-synced multiple times after the changes as well.. E-mailed Batrium but it may be Monday before I get a response. It was weird, originally it stopped at 5 -6, then it failed after 4 several times. Then went back to 5-6 fail..so..?
 
I checked settings, temps settings, etc.. nothing seems off?
The only thing I found was if I made changes and forgot to sync the bypass would fail. I will take a few screenshots in the toolkit for comparison and upload tomorrow. I did enable multi-string so a few of the functions will be different.

I combined both banks this evening.
 

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These are my settings with out active cooling the default settings hit the thermal limit very quickly.
 

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Finally got bypass test to pass. Had to uninstall software, reinstalled and setup process again. Passed.
@kromc5 did you finally figure out why you had rogue or runaway cells?
I was not able to determine why but I have both banks of 4p16s connected together and running 1/2 the house again.
If I had to guess prior it was not using any float. I'm still conflicted on float, prior I had it disabled. It's currently starts to float at 53.74. Before during charge and discharge they started to deviate little by little. During the charge they would charge to around .3v of each other but then deviate faster on discharge. It has only been two days but both banks have only deviated by .1v.

Here's what I did to try and make sure all 128 batteries were at close as possible:
 
I was not able to determine why but I have both banks of 4p16s connected together and running 1/2 the house again.
If I had to guess prior it was not using any float. I'm still conflicted on float, prior I had it disabled. It's currently starts to float at 53.74. Before during charge and discharge they started to deviate little by little. During the charge they would charge to around .3v of each other but then deviate faster on discharge. It has only been two days but both banks have only deviated by .1v.

Here's what I did to try and make sure all 128 batteries were at close as possible:
Good deal. I was curious because I don’t remember seeing or hearing a final resolution to the problem that you have posted.
I ended up changing my set up to a 16s4p. It was a little more expensive that way because I ended up buying 64 Blockmons, one for each cell and only using one Batrium.
Do not have my packs in parallel yet, waiting on the last two packs to settle down a little bit before paralleling.
I will post some pictures soon so that you can see what I have got set up. Thanks for the link I will check that out when I have a chance later today.
 
Good deal. I was curious because I don’t remember seeing or hearing a final resolution to the problem that you have posted.
I ended up changing my set up to a 16s4p. It was a little more expensive that way because I ended up buying 64 Blockmons, one for each cell and only using one Batrium.
Do not have my packs in parallel yet, waiting on the last two packs to settle down a little bit before paralleling.
I will post some pictures soon so that you can see what I have got set up. Thanks for the link I will check that out when I have a chance later today.
Definetly post some pictures, with float they are staying very close so far no devation of more than .1v. The seconday affect is the inverter/charge controllers in float take care of the loads. They fluctuate between .1 to .001+/- through out the evening. Also the total kwh production is much higher and the graph is very stable instead the high discharge/charge that it was doing before. Due to the float and low variations I suspect that the soc is also better for the evening before sun down.
 
I used one like this:


You may have to shop around for one with larger amp rating or use two since you have two inverters. You could easily use two with the batrium (assuming you have the expansion board). You might want to see how your inverters handle being disconnected from the battery while under load.

If you get a shunt trip, make sure it's 24v (or if you can find one that will work with battery voltage). There are a few youtubes on wiring like
. I went the route like this guy did with a 48v->24v converter which powers the batrium and provides power for the shunt trip. The Batrium will run on up to 65 v and you can tap your battery for 24v for the shunt, but I didn't know if I would add any other gadgets like fans and 24v is common. So I went with a converter.
Can you provide any info on the 48v to 24v converter used?
 
Sorry about that, I read the message and totally missed the title part.

8 x 51.2v x 280 ah = 114,688 or 114 kWh.

You will basically have 8 batteries of 14 kWh each. (I have 4 in the same capacity ordered)

I plan to make 4 sets of 16, each with their own Chargery BMS.
I am putting all 4 sets to a bus bar, aka a combiner, then to the charge controller.

Each set of 16 as its own battery to me will provide maximum longevity. I think I am overkilling with 4 BMS's going to each set.
My thinking is about the sheer size of the cells having so much capacity, and I want every single cell monitored.


I have 96 cells 280AH and have an overkill bms on each one.

20211127_164756.jpg
 
Most of the time, energy independence come with an other way of consuming this energy.
Lean how to use less, 100kwh of batteries is a lot....


Maybe he doesn't want to consume less. Maybe he's got a home and a couple work shops to run?

I have a similiar sized battery bank, I wouldn't have gone with the 12k if I was the OP though. I would have went with the 240v 5k inverters with a real transformer not the little mini transformer. I have a 37.5KW transformer and I never have to worry about using this or that. I can run 3- 4.5 ton air-conditioned, appliances, tools, dehumidifiers etc etc etc and never worry about anything shutting down Iike the solarks do.

If it's cloudy and rainy for a couple weeks and your panels are not making jack squat you will be thanking your lucky stars you bought that huge battery pack.
 
I had looked at that but many responded that 16s by 8 would be easier to manage and monitor.


Think of it like this..... if something happens.. say BMS gives out or a cell or 2 maybe more lets go that pack is down. If you have separate batteries you can shut one or 2 down to do maintenance and still have battery back up. Or cannibalize one pack to make another pack whole again.
 

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