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Want a meter that'll do everything, maybe not so cheap.

circus

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Want one meter, other than an oscilloscope, that can test all circuit component and measure everything. Even features I don't understand, yet. Cheap. Tired of learning I have the wrong tools.
 
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This one comes close.

DMM with AC/DC clamp ammeter, $100
1000A max, sufficient for battery current in a large system or automotive starter.
0.01A resolution, good for PV strings.
Inrush feature (couldn't get it to register DC though, maybe just for AC motors)
All the usual AC/DC voltages, ohms, diode check, Hz, non-contact voltage.



What it doesn't have, that some other meters offer:
oscilloscope
thermal imaging camera
 
AC/DC clamp ammeter
Bought one for a "no anxiety if not used" price. Maybe now I'll be able to fix my obsolete washer. Can anyone help with where to start? Keypad is dead unless it's pressed while plugging in. Then it operates normally. :unsure:

maytag & clampmeter reduced.jpg
 
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Depending on the keypad type. Look up hair drying the keypad panel. I’ve fixed buttons that won’t work. One is still going 10 years later.
 
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Back to the original request, returned the faulty meter. Want a value meter, other than an oscilloscope, that can test all circuit component and measure everything. Particularly capable of testing capacitors. Feel kind of guilty returning stuff when the seller looks small. :(
 
Back to the original request, returned the faulty meter. Want a value meter, other than an oscilloscope, that can test all circuit component and measure everything. Particularly capable of testing capacitors. Feel kind of guilty returning stuff when the seller looks small. :(

Back to my earlier suggestion. Not unreasonably expensive at $100. Measures in particular Capacitance: 99.99mF.

 
Want one meter, other than an oscilloscope, that can test all circuit component and measure everything. Even features I don't understand, yet. Cheap. Tired of learning I have the wrong tools.
I recommend ideal, or UEI for lower cost quality meters. Ideal is on the shelf at lowes. UEI is on the rack at r.e.Michael Hvac distributors… fluke is PRICY, and their multi use meters are a pain, but they do work.
 
I recommend ideal, or UEI for lower cost quality meters. Ideal is on the shelf at lowes. UEI is on the rack at r.e.Michael Hvac distributors… fluke is PRICY, and their multi use meters are a pain, but they do work.

What is DC amps resolution?

I don't find that in the link at Lowes for Ideal:

A major reason I selected the HF one is it has 0.01A resolution on 60ADC scale. That is good for comparing PV strings. Many of the meters only had 0.1A resolution. Others were several $hundred
 
What is DC amps resolution?

I don't find that in the link at Lowes for Ideal:

A major reason I selected the HF one is it has 0.01A resolution on 60ADC scale. That is good for comparing PV strings. Many of the meters only had 0.1A resolution. Others were several $hundred
I'm not sure which model you are looking at but scroll down to the specs (page 22) and I think you'll find what you're looking for...it appears to match the resolution of the HF one. https://www.idealind.com/content/da...mpmeter/ND 9010-1 61-747_757 Clamp Manual.pdf
 
I'm not sure which model you are looking at but scroll down to the specs (page 22) and I think you'll find what you're looking for...it appears to match the resolution of the HF one. https://www.idealind.com/content/dam/electrical/assets/TestMeasurement/Clamp Meters/61-747_400ampclampmeter/ND 9010-1 61-747_757 Clamp Manual.pdf

More complete than the "manual", just a partial data sheet, that Lowes linked.

"DC Current (A) 40.00A 60.00A 0.01A ±(2.0%+9)"

Yes, same resolution 0.01A
600A max (another scale), good for most PV/battery systems. HF model has 1000A, 600A, 60A scales.

HF manual


"DC Current Accuracy ± 2.0% of rdg + 8D"

Almost exactly same accuracy, same percentage of reading and one fewer counts of least significant digit.

Both are about 0.1A accuracy. The 0.01A resolution is useful, e.g. when sun is off angle and you're comparing two parallel strings while they only produce about 1A each. Having resolution of 1% not 10% of the reading lets you see differences, detect if some panels degraded.

The Ideal 600A meter is $126 at Lowes:


Ideal has other meter lines as well, including 1000A but considerably more expensive.


$95 "View lower price in cart" for 400A meter drops to $90 when added to cart.

Harbor Freight 1000A is $100, 600A is $90



Quality and Quality control may vary. We expect better from Ideal and other typical brands long used in the trades.
FilterGuy bought one after I recommended it, had flaky readings until he reflowed a bad solder joint.


Harbor Freight is good about short-term return policy. They have become my go-to place for many tools.
Replacement parts are mostly unobtainium.
 
Bought one for a "no anxiety if not used" price. Maybe now I'll be able to fix my obsolete washer. Can anyone help with where to start? Keypad is dead unless it's pressed while plugging in. Then it operates normally. :unsure:

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Back to the washer. I would look for a stuck button. I bought my LG washer cheap that way. Once computer matrix finds a button pressed it will not go further. Pressing start before powering indicates that is one of the first buttons scanned.
 
Scanned keypads are often wired as a matrix. 16 buttons is 4 rows & 4 columns. Drive one of 4 rows, read voltage on each of 4 columns.
This can produce aliasing if multiple buttons pressed (or stuck). uP could scan in order and accept first detected as you suggest.

Ohm meter could be used to buzz out keypad. On some meters, diode-check scale drives enough current/voltage to detect diodes in ICs, while ohms scale is lower voltage so would see switches but not transistors.
 
I seriously doubt that anything can be checked except for mechanical interference. Every washer module I have seen has been seriously potted.
 
Maybe potted.
Mostly I worked on the old electromechanical ones (they are all the same).
But I've also opened up Miele and others. Nothing potted there. And a keypad won't be, although a chip-on-board would be globbed.
Likely some vias and connectors available.
I've been successful repairing the old washers, but none of my electronic ones.

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