Daddy Tanuki
Solar Wizard
deleted multipost
Shoot I would love to ask you whats best! unfortunately here in japan there is no chance to pretest something prior to buying, so I have been watching the reviews on various forums to try and figure out which one I should start out with... Currently i run Husky gas powered pro level units. (i rebuild blown units from companies that use them daily for work.) so they are cheap for me. but when i make the jump to electric I will be buying new.I know it's off topic, but as an enthusiast what's your opinion on the Einhell Power X-Change 10 inch 18V Cordless Chainsaw model GE-LC 18/25 Li With 3.0 Ah Battery (it's the one I have)
I bought it as I have a number of Ozito and Einhell tools and the batteries are interchangeable. Been using it to take down a few trees and think it's a great electric chainsaw
100 Kwh is a really large bank, and will run your house for a long time even if you are a power hog. but you will need a large array to keep them charged if you are running them hard. say you get 4 hours of good solar per day, you would need at least 20-25 kw of solar just to charge them and run most of your house at the same time. (these are off the cuff numbers). but if you can afford that big of a battery bank then the peripherals are not that bad as the costs are coming down daily. I bought used panels that were 5 y/o or newer and have 7.2kw here in japan the panels alone would be about 40K usd new, but I spent less than 4k on used panels that were all top tier used <5 years old and removed from houses due to upgrades/new construction etc. etc. Not knowing the costs of panels in your area I cant speak on the cost, but I think if you are diligent you can do it reasonably priced.The house is pretty new and it is not even finished. In purely renewables, I was thinking of making the battery bigger (up to 100kWh) and placing a windmill (there is lots of wind in the winter) as well as a recycle shower.
That way it will become even less, below 500kWh.
I could add a woodstove and use its heat. I would not need so much. I have some laying around, and I would just order a pallet.
We typically have some way to cook anyway.
Lets say that we will see how it goes up to next winter. And it isn't that hard for me to change it.
I will say (without having ever used one) that I am not keen on the twist and lock style bar clamping systems. (From my research) I think I would prefer two lock down nuts as the bar never slips. how well does the Einhell work? Stihl and Husky tried the quick lock system but stopped using them after one model or so as they did not clamp well enough to keep the pro users happy. That's what i base my evaluations off of. electric battery saws are starting to gain acceptance among the pro community, so they are definitely coming up.I know it's off topic, but as an enthusiast what's your opinion on the Einhell Power X-Change 10 inch 18V Cordless Chainsaw model GE-LC 18/25 Li With 3.0 Ah Battery (it's the one I have)
I bought it as I have a number of Ozito and Einhell tools and the batteries are interchangeable. Been using it to take down a few trees and think it's a great electric chainsaw
funny check some of my other threads... I have been looking at a 12kl stainless tank for the same reasons. I keep getting people saying it will not work but I think it will.Might look into stored hot water. Cheaper than batteries at least in the states. 1 50gal water heater is about $600 new or less if scratch and dent. Maybe $700 for hybrid with rebates or $1300 full price...scratch and dent can be half the price. 50 gal stored water is about 8 kwhr.
I like the idea for domestic hot water but also for supplemental heating. The hybrid hot water heater systems are so cheap relatively speaking it can be a poor man's equivalent to geothermal if you have a large basement. The cold air output sinks quickly and hits the concrete floor at 60deg F which warms it to 60F almost immediately as it covers the large surface area. A smaller basement may not be as good in that respect and could steal some of the house heat. I've been using one and this is the effect I've seen but I have a large basement about 2100ft2.
thats a sweet price compared to Japan. shit at that price i would have 25 kw or more!My 3 year old used 250w panels , were $58 each.
I've bought 6kw so far, and will probably triple my array for that low price.
Planning for at least 24kw.
I have the available roof space.
Would rather have too much, than not enough.
Especially at these prices.
Maybe I can make electricity from moonlight. lol
There are like million homes in the countryside of Japan for sale right now. I would love to fix one up. I’m a countryside person100 Kwh is a really large bank, and will run your house for a long time even if you are a power hog. but you will need a large array to keep them charged if you are running them hard. say you get 4 hours of good solar per day, you would need at least 20-25 kw of solar just to charge them and run most of your house at the same time. (these are off the cuff numbers). but if you can afford that big of a battery bank then the peripherals are not that bad as the costs are coming down daily. I bought used panels that were 5 y/o or newer and have 7.2kw here in japan the panels alone would be about 40K usd new, but I spent less than 4k on used panels that were all top tier used <5 years old and removed from houses due to upgrades/new construction etc. etc. Not knowing the costs of panels in your area I cant speak on the cost, but I think if you are diligent you can do it reasonably priced.
Might look into stored hot water. Cheaper than batteries at least in the states. 1 50gal water heater is about $600 new or less if scratch and dent. Maybe $700 for hybrid with rebates or $1300 full price...scratch and dent can be half the price. 50 gal stored water is about 8 kwhr.
I like the idea for domestic hot water but also for supplemental heating. The hybrid hot water heater systems are so cheap relatively speaking it can be a poor man's equivalent to geothermal if you have a large basement. The cold air output sinks quickly and hits the concrete floor at 60deg F which warms it to 60F almost immediately as it covers the large surface area. A smaller basement may not be as good in that respect and could steal some of the house heat. I've been using one and this is the effect I've seen but I have a large basement about 2100ft2.
Yes I am actively working on a product, basically just an electric boiler, but one that makes it easier for a user to store excess energy in there.
And heated in two stages. So half can be always ready for hot water, and the other part is for extra demand.
Lot of technical people, like on this site, might be able to build it themselves, but it should be accessible and easy for an average user. This is al in Europe by the way.
For myself, I cannot fit huge boilers, we built a small house. I will put 100 liters in though, which is enough for us. And instead of having it always have hot water ready, but just by the end of the day, makes a huge difference in solar power usage.
seems to me it would be a 2 stage system.@HarryN yes legionella is the main reason of concern. But you can even put some more intelligence into these desinfection runs. Not needing them when the boiler was very cold (no growth) or just do this run when you are already relatively high in temperature.
All better than my previous house, which just heat the huge boiler up to 60 degrees C on a fixed day, even though it had been way over 60 degrees the day before.
I had solar thermal collectors before. And I like them. But for simplicity I went with all electric, and treating the electric boiler as just another battery.
Stone is much better for really high temperature projects. However, that requires a huge insulation layer, and thus requiring lots of space.
For me, it is not worth it, since I am only short 1000kWh, the installation will be too big.
I really doubt that. Rain forms on dust and all the dirt around you has it. Wear a petri dish around your neck and just see how much Legionella is picked up. I had a girlfriend who had rainwater. Every glass had stuff floating in it. Never ate or drank anything from the tap. That didn't last long. I do have some health standards.
I run pure water thru my shop boiler, radiant floor heat. Have for years, closed loop system. Water is from my well. Yes, it has an anti flow back valve.Well, rainwater can be legionella free. If it is not from a green roof or not too many trees and falling leaves etc.
Every once in a while legionella pops up in the news, claiming a few victims. It is rare, but you have to take precautions.
However for a small boiler at home it is typical used enough that no legionella build up will occur.
Lots of luck on your project. Stratified water systems are starting to take hold and as you can see there is still resistance to the idea. Europe with higher energy prices always leads the way in efficiency.Yes I am actively working on a product, basically just an electric boiler, but one that makes it easier for a user to store excess energy in there.
And heated in two stages. So half can be always ready for hot water, and the other part is for extra demand.
Lot of technical people, like on this site, might be able to build it themselves, but it should be accessible and easy for an average user. This is al in Europe by the way.
For myself, I cannot fit huge boilers, we built a small house. I will put 100 liters in though, which is enough for us. And instead of having it always have hot water ready, but just by the end of the day, makes a huge difference in solar power usage.