diy solar

diy solar

Signature Solar EG4 6.5K Off-Grid Inverter | 6500EX-48

"I think the NEC stipulates that the grounding conductor is to be run with the grounded conductor and presumably with the un-grounded conductor". What?. I am going to act like I didn't read that. Thanks a million, FilterGuy and smooth. I am going to wire it exactly as your 1st diagram that you replied with and disable bonding on only one inverter and never look back.
 
Thanks. I even liked the post the other day, I read to much....
I'm still confused how you could have 2 bonds with both screws removed.
Wouldn't the neutral (bonded at the main panel) just pass through the inverters if both bonding screws are removed?
If both screws are removed, you will need N-G bond in the subpanel after the inverters. The reason why is input Neutral is switched by the internal transfer switch, thus there would not be any N-G bond for ground fault protection.

With a N-G bond in the subpanel, when you enter bypass mode with AC input, you will have N-G bond in the main service panel and the subpanel.

This is why you can't remove both screws unless you will only use the inverters in off grid mode without AC input wired in.
 
You know, I'm looking through the manual and the "Basic Setup" shows a 48V battery connected, and I don't see anywhere, where it says that this inverter can operate without a battery attached. Is anyone certain this is possible? I've only ever seen this inverter used with a battery connected.
Ian at Watts247 showed the LV6548 running only on PV and powering multiple shop tools like chopsaw, tablesaw. There is a Youtube video if you want to see it.
 
What if you didn't have utility power feeding the critical load panel, would you still need the 3 pole double throw?
Main distribution panel; inverters; main panel.
You need the 3 pole double throw to switch Neutral from the main distribution panel.
 
but the interference can be avoided by running all the wires through a single EMC or RMC metal conduit.
That is a good idea no matter what. There is no avoiding a loop in the neutral when you have multiple inverters, so having it all sealed up in a faraday cage would go a long way toward reducing any potential RFI issues from ground or other loops. However, in options with multiple inverters, the conduit itself can become a broadcasting loop if you are not careful. (With multiple inverters, I think I would go with metal cable trays that hold all the wires).

Normally I don't worry so much about loops, but when an inverter is involved, you are dealing with the quintessential RFI noise generator. Consequently, I watch for loops and try to avoid them if at all possible. Loops should be avoided, but sometimes they are almost impossible to avoid...particularly if it is in a metal building.
 
This diagram is gonna cause a fizzing noise between some sets of ears "Dual inverter (Split-Phase 120V/240V)".
Do you see any problem with running L, N and G from both inverters to the sub panel?
I know it will be parralel ground conductors but its only a single and predictable ground fault path.
That was discussed at length and how I came up with my diagram. The only parallel path is between the 2 inverters under inverter power. This was the best design without modifying the unit by removing any screws. My biggest concern with any screw removal is electrons returning to source and in a ground fault situation there could be the possibility of not 100% protection. With both inverters N-G bonded under inverter power, while there is objectionable current for the few feet between inverters on G, it would provide 100% ground fault protection.

Some will argue the bonded N-G in the one inverter will suffice, but as this is a relay, what is the likelihood of both relays failing at the same time?
 
These recent videos of Will's convinced me to go off-grid with 2 6500EX and 30kwh of rack mount batteries (EG LifePower4 x6). I'll have 20x 240W panels.
I plan to duplicate what Will has shown in the videos and his diagrams. I'm hoping he will explain the need for and correct wiring for communications.
Solar is fun but I would rather follow directions rather than fully understand what I'm doing. I have dealt with electricity in home repairs and even some electronics but I want to get this up and running and learn as time passes.
One can always use the units as off grid power only and add an external battery charger for power off the grid with some efficiency loss and the possibly not able to run full loads as desired.

It's not that hard actually, purchase a 3 pole double throw rated for at least 60A and follow the diagrams given.
 
You need the 3 pole double throw to switch Neutral from the main distribution panel.
Hmmmm if he does not have power coming from the main panel to the critical loads panel, why does he need the switch?
I think this is what he was talking about:

1653960098352.png
 
And finally, when I transfer the loads from the main panel to the crit panel, do I have to transfer not only the hots, but also the associated neutrals?

Thank you.
One member here tried a Reliance 310C transfer switch wired where the neutrals remained in the main panel.

It would trip the inverter immediately as it created a ground fault scenario. Remember, electrons return to source.
 
Hmmmm if he does not have power coming from the main panel to the critical loads panel, why does he need the switch?
I think this is what he was talking about:

View attachment 96495
I'm trying to remember, we had that discussion. It would work with one screw removed in an inverter (which you know I do not advocate and you didn't advocate before).
 
Hmmmm if he does not have power coming from the main panel to the critical loads panel, why does he need the switch?
I think this is what he was talking about:

View attachment 96495
Exactly what I had pictured in my head and planned to draw tomorrow. What are you using for your diagrams? I was going to try visio and end up making something really crude in excel ?.
Now I need to make the big decision if I want to be the test dummy seeing how these handle a well pump and other surges like table saws, band saws, etc; I can always add 2 more.

@FilterGuy @Zwy and all others thank you for your help and contributions, it's truly appreciated. Huge thanks to Will for making it all possible here as well.
 
One member here tried a Reliance 310C transfer switch wired where the neutrals remained in the main panel.

It would trip the inverter immediately as it created a ground fault scenario. Remember, electrons return to source.
Do you recall what inverter he was using? Was it an LV6548?
 
Exactly what I had pictured in my head and planned to draw tomorrow.
Did you see the resource I posted with all the different scenarios?


What are you using for your diagrams?
Plain ol' Powerpoint
 
Did you see the resource I posted with all the different scenarios?



Plain ol' Powerpoint
Just downloaded it, made mental note to check it earlier and forgot.

It shows I don't use PowerPoint as much as a should, I dread it because using it normally means I'm doing boring presentations for work.
 
Ian at Watts247 showed the LV6548 running only on PV and powering multiple shop tools like chopsaw, tablesaw. There is a Youtube video if you want to see it.
Yes, thank you. This was the video that gave me the assumption that I could run this unit batteryless. I see in this video he does not connect to the grid and he does not mention any settings on the inverter.. It seems that it could be possible to run this batteryless.
 
View attachment 96017
I thought it was UL listed then while editing the video I found out it was TUV listed. Which Ian from watts24/7 told me couple days later is what the lv6548 had all along. Signature solar told me that the screw terminals for mc4 allows it to pass inspection. But Ian said the first lv6548 has passed inspection "hundreds of times". So I don't know what to think right now. Pretty annoyed by it all. Worked hard on those stupid videos and this happens.

Probably need to make sol ark videos and just get people to spend 3X as much so this issue just stops. Why can't the companies get this thing UL listed instead.
A Sol Ark 15k video would be sweet
 
This is to avoid ground loops that might cause RFI issues.

You could do this as well.

View attachment 96473


This works fine and as far as I know, is to code However there are a lot more connections in the ground path to the critical loads box. I like to try to minimize the connections between any one point and the main grounding spot...... (Yes, my anal-retentive nature is showing :))
Thanks again..

Since the two indoor panels would be right next to each other, it wouldn't be difficult to run a ground wire to the sub panel from the crit panel to match your original schematic. I'm moving hots and neutrals anyways, so one more wire shouldn't be a problem. What gauge wire would be sufficient for this? Guess I'll just have to run two 6 gauge wires from inverter output to the crit box.

You said the second version would cause a ground loop which might cause radio interference issues, is that the worst problem? What are you talking about here? Is there a safety issue also?
 
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You said the second version would cause a ground loop which might cause radio interference issues, is that the worst problem? What are you talking about here? Is there a safety issue also?
I think the second one creates a lot more connections between the critical load panel and the central grounding point in the main box.
This is not a ground loop and is perfectly legit. I just like to minimize the connections between points on the EGC system. (Star configuration vs daisy chain config)
 
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