Hello @Carlos_Sol-Ark , Do you know what time to expect 15K In Ca market or on CEC
Sol-Ark 15K All in One Inverter Released.
- Thread starter robby
- Start date
Balthazar-B
New Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2022
- Messages
- 91
For what it's worth, an installer told me it should be late August or in September. The California Energy Commission does things at its own pace, and it doesn't sound like they've committed to a specific date for a decision.
You can acquire and install a 15K in California -- I think there are at least one or two people here who have done that -- but you won't be able to connect it to your utility's grid before it gets CEC certification.
Ampster
Renewable Energy Hobbyist
This would be a good time to see if the local building department would approve a permit. That way you could get your permit completed by then. You might be able to open a NEM application with your power company so once the install is finalled and CEC has approved it you can submit final request for PTO. Last year at this time I felt under the gun to get mine finaled before NEM 3.0 but today we are still waiting on that but you do not want to miss getting in under 2.0
I asked about the max L-N power since they don't list that in the specs for the 15k. Here's the answer for anyone curious:
"The L-N for each leg of the 15K will be ~7.8kW from inverting. If the grid is passing through power to loads, the limitation will be ~24kW for each leg."
"The L-N for each leg of the 15K will be ~7.8kW from inverting. If the grid is passing through power to loads, the limitation will be ~24kW for each leg."
Lt.Dan
Solar Wizard
I tried to do that in my county, and they denied the permits because its missing the necessary certs. Even after trying to explain that it will be approved soon, they won't allow it. Can't start the NEM process until the permit is approved either ? i just went with a 12k.
Similar boat ,but holding on the 12K for now, will give it a couple of weeks
I see that the manual says it needs 2 inches of space between items mounted nearby. I have a tight area and am trying to install a transfer switch next to the 15K solark. Is the 2 inches from the edge of the main box, or do I need to add the dimension of the wifi dongle that sticks out of the box 45mm or nearly 1.8 inches. My current assumption is the 2 inches is to the main body/metal box and that 2 inches clears the 1.8 inches the dongle sticks out, but.. the manual is not clear on this. Don't want to violate code.
Anyone?
Anyone?
Hedges
I See Electromagnetic Fields!
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2020
- Messages
- 21,088
It would need airflow. Any blocking of vents would reduce that. Column above/below vents allows convection, which will be smoother and more effective without baffles in the way. I wouldn't think a dongle would matter much.
Hello
Agree about needing airflow.. and top and bottom and far right edge will have plenty, its just the L side where the dongle is, that I have limited space.
I spoke with another expert, and he said the 2 inch gap required L-R from the unit is from the edge of the Metal box, since the dongle extends 1.25 inches, a 2 inch clearance will not interfere with that , and I can install/remove the dongle from that gap. So.. plan is to leave a 3 inch gap beyond the metal case, which exceeds the requirement, but doesn't include the 1.25 inches of the dongle (or more like 4.25 inches,) which is space I really don't have on my basement wall , in the logical area to install the solark, and transfer switch.
One of the youtube installers stated that Solark promises that you don't need the transfer switch, as the "pass through" of the 200A service will continue to work if the solark goes down hard or becomes inoperative.
Not needing the transfer switch would simplify my install, but I keep coming back to a nightmare scenario where the solark is dead, or needs to go somewhere for service, and my main 200A feed for my entire home will need to be disconnected, and re-connected to bypass the solark and feed my mains panel. I found a brand new 200A transfer switch online for $50, and I am going to go ahead and install it, then if/when anything bad happens , wife, or future owner can just flip that switch, and the main panel is back direct connected to the grid.
Thanks for your reply.. and now I just need to find a local electrician to help me install the main fused 200A cut off switch code requires to feed the solark. Wish me luck with that, I call, leave messages, with a clear statement of what kind of help I need, and very few electricians, answer the phone, or call back.. just endless messages.
CPU
I
Last edited:
Hedges
I See Electromagnetic Fields!
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2020
- Messages
- 21,088
Do you have a way to disconnect power yourself for installation of cut-off switch? Or does that require yanking meter?
In either case, could still be DIY if you're qualified to operate a torque wrench. (I've taken to rotating wire back and forth under terminal while repeatedly torquing screw, until strands settle fully.)
Normally, being without power until utility returns to reconnect would be inconvenient, but if SolArk is able to supply house at that point, not such a big deal.
Transfer switch (or I used smaller interlocked "generator" breaker in main panel) would connect inverter to main panel and house while waiting for their return.
$50 for 200A transfer switch sounds great.
I got a 200A heavy duty disconnect for that price. My only transfer switches are breaker interlocks.
The front cover is slightly less than 18 1/4” wide.
The dongle sticks out 1 1/4” from that on the left side.
The latches on right side need about 2 1/4” to open.
So to give a little extra room for my hands, I’m installing mine with 3” on both sides.
No vents on sides, just top and bottom. I think they recommend at least 6” clearance there.
The dongle sticks out 1 1/4” from that on the left side.
The latches on right side need about 2 1/4” to open.
So to give a little extra room for my hands, I’m installing mine with 3” on both sides.
No vents on sides, just top and bottom. I think they recommend at least 6” clearance there.
Last edited:
Hello
My current home has the meter on outside wall, with the feed to my main panel in basement through cement in plastic PVC pipe. So exterior the only way to disconnect is to pull the meter, and make the electric company cranky.
In the basement there is room for some Polaris lugs that could be attached to the existing 4/0 aluminum wires , problem is they would be live, fed from the meter outside.
I've sent emails to the tech support at the local electric company and they don't give any answers about what would happen if I just disconnected my main panel breaker switch to ensure no power flowing then pulled the meter outside to work on the wiring inside.
One electrician says he's coming over today (no time or planned visit time shared, so I guess I just sit here all day waiting for him to show up whenever the mood strikes him)..... Sheesh..
Guess I shouldn't bash folks who are smart and work with electricity, but it would be nice if they operated with a little more courtesy to paying customers . (Of which they all have an overload presently).
I understand that the solark has passthrough.. just that the 15K is a brand new , complex box.. and if/when it fails I will need to do something to get it replaced/repaired... guess if I went with a replace always strategy I could just let it sit installed, broken and the power passthrough working and house up and running off 100% grid. Then when the new unit arrives the install should leave my home unpowered for only 1 day, using the main power disconnect to remove all downstream power to work on the replacement install. But since the transfer switch is in my house and was so inexpensive.. I am just going to install it, and label clearly so wife or future owners will know what to do to operate house if solark dies completely.
I was completely shocked at the retail big box prices of 200A fused cut off switches (Required for solark per code), and the transfer switch. Folks need to add $900-1200 to the price of the inverter just for those pieces of hardware, not including wire , conduit, and other incidentals.
Hi, thanks.. I need to edit my earlier post, I misread the dimension and it is only 1.25 inches extended, not 1.77 as I stated.
Can get the recommended fusible disconnect for significantly cheaper from this site.
SQUARE D D224NRB 200A-240V RT SW | Gordon Electric Supply, Inc.
SqD D224NRB General Duty 200A 240V 2-pole 3-wire Fusible Safety Switch. Nema 3R enclosure.
www.gordonelectricsupply.com
Hedges
I See Electromagnetic Fields!
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2020
- Messages
- 21,088
Note that the transfer switch, unless it is fused, doesn't provide the over-current protection probably required before SolArk.
For most residential applications we have a main breaker rated 22k AIC. (The branch breakers are rated 10k AIC).
I happen have underground service to meter and 200A breaker before anything else, which makes all this easier.
Getting all your ducks in a row and then having utility shut off power seems like the way to go.
Cutting their security wire and yanking meter may work, may expose to causing a short without OCP which would be bad. Company probably doesn't approve.
For most residential applications we have a main breaker rated 22k AIC. (The branch breakers are rated 10k AIC).
I happen have underground service to meter and 200A breaker before anything else, which makes all this easier.
Getting all your ducks in a row and then having utility shut off power seems like the way to go.
Cutting their security wire and yanking meter may work, may expose to causing a short without OCP which would be bad. Company probably doesn't approve.
RayofSunshine
New Member
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2021
- Messages
- 98
As much as it pains me to say it, you can get it even $45 cheaper (with free delivery) from Amazon.Can get the recommended fusible disconnect for significantly cheaper from this site.
SQUARE D D224NRB 200A-240V RT SW | Gordon Electric Supply, Inc.
SqD D224NRB General Duty 200A 240V 2-pole 3-wire Fusible Safety Switch. Nema 3R enclosure.
robby
Photon Vampire
- Joined
- May 1, 2021
- Messages
- 4,211
Meh electricians cut them all the time and pull the meter to do their work.
Eventually the electric company will do an inspection and see it. Once you tell them you had an electrical emergency and your electrician removed the meter to fix the issue they pretty much just put on a new seal and leave.
