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Xuba Electronics: DEAL - 280AH LiFePo4 cells. Purchase & Review

12AWG is good for 25A (6' or less) - that is total length of the pos + neg wires for a 3% loss
i think you need a larger gauge wire if you want a smaller voltage drop

mark
 
BAD DEVICE REPORT THE CELL CHARGER
Running it con't.


PHOTO of my Charger... from IC Cogogo (do not buy)!
View attachment 10073
Bottom Labels: Dial = [AMPS] Set Screw = [VOLTS]

Considering the ADVERT is terrible and this unit cannot be dialed down to do single cells only with 3.65 volts @ X Amps. I've gone ahead and setup a 4S of new 280AH cells, set the charger to 14.6V and dialed it to 50A. It is now charging away "but" see below.

  1. This thing generates a high pitch sound when operating, "very nasty"
  2. The dial and set screw for Voltage are extremely finicky / fiddly ! so be VERY CAUTIOUS and make sure you check and recheck BEFORE connecting battery. AMPS should be ZERO but Volts set to Target Voltage desired PRIOR to connecting Pack.
  3. Set the Amperage using the dial AFTER the pack has been attached.
  4. Once connected it shows the "Actual Voltage" of the pack being charged and increememnts up while it is charging.
  5. The Small Fan WILL Kick on and I have to say, it's such a little fan but Holy Macaroni it's LOUD and blows a LOT of Air.
  6. Presently charging first 4S set to 14.6V @ 50A, on my 24V System, it is pulling 32A from the battery bank.
  7. The leads from the PS to teh battery clips get quite warm but not hot, I'm feeling that is the edge of the capacity for the wire in question. It would have been prudent to use a thicker wire set I believe.
  8. VOLT Display is OFF by 0.2V from charger to battery. Confirmed with two different DVOM's. (Digital Volt Ohm Meters)
  9. The Charger does not get very warm, so the cooling does work, even if it's noisy and annoying. (don't use it in a occupied living space, it will make you nuts)
Ongoing Charging: Cells were at 3.29V / 13.16V for the 4S pack,
All cells were equal @ start
View attachment 10297

Hope it helps.
That sucks I still yet gotten mine but I did get the 75 amp one as I will not be able to set it down to 3v. So the voltage is off from the charger a -0.2?
 
A ICECO VL60 dual zone. I had it on a Amazon list and checked it multiple tames a day.
When it dropped to $628, I put it in my cart and checked out before the price changed again.
This link has 5 different models. The 6th a VL60 w/padded case price can be beat if you catch it at the right time.
The padded case is $89 by itself. That is what I did.
It fits perfect on a Harbor Freight large furniture dolly when I have it in the house to make it moveable.
I started with it plugged into 110ACV to make sure it worked OK and see if the noise bothered me at night.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0831JVRMQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081N7VCL1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


View attachment 10594
Oh these are very efficient i have the ICECO GO20
 
They are. The Blue is a shrink wrap used to cover the cells.
Ahhh, I see. But still the different sizes all seem to look identical. Are there differences that can be seen between the different manufacturers, or are they indeed from the same factory?
 
Ahhh, I see. But still the different sizes all seem to look identical. Are there differences that can be seen between the different manufacturers, or are they indeed from the same factory?
Every maker has their own thing. Some have different vents, or different coloured terminals, sizes vary by capacity 100AH vs 200AH for instance.
 
Ahhh, I see. But still the different sizes all seem to look identical. Are there differences that can be seen between the different manufacturers, or are they indeed from the same factory?
The basic design is the same, but each company has their own take on it.
They're all a Aluminum Cased Rectangular Cell and most have blue shrink wrap around them.
Just Google Aluminum Case Prismatic LiFePO4 cells and look at images.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Alu...aHTQIHfA6DYcQ_AUoAnoECAwQBA&biw=1431&bih=1133
 
Wanted to update about my order. My 16 (280 ah) batteries were shipped by Amy at Xuba on 3/7 via sea freight and arrived today 4/9 via Fedex to my door in the USA. Packaged very well and everything arrived in order. No other amounts were owed beyond what I originally paid for the shipping. Very happy with this purchase - now I get to weld together some kind of cart to hold them all as they are pretty heavy.
 
Wanted to update about my order. My 16 (280 ah) batteries were shipped by Amy at Xuba on 3/7 via sea freight and arrived today 4/9 via Fedex to my door in the USA. Packaged very well and everything arrived in order. No other amounts were owed beyond what I originally paid for the shipping. Very happy with this purchase - now I get to weld together some kind of cart to hold them all as they are pretty heavy.
I would say so... probably about 240 lbs..... Are you building two 24V or a 48V? Did they come in 4 Boxes?
I guess Amy was pretty close on the 30 days by sea.... My Air shipment took a couple extra days, too.....
 
I would say so... probably about 240 lbs..... Are you building two 24V or a 48V? Did they come in 4 Boxes?
I guess Amy was pretty close on the 30 days by sea.... My Air shipment took a couple extra days, too.....

Building (2) 24 volt batteries; it came in 4 separate boxes. Going to use some left over rectangle steel tube (2x4 .120 wall), and some left over sheet metal (18g and some 1/8th inch plate) from a project to construct a rolling cart (similar to a welding cart) and have the batteries in an enclosure and the controller, inverter, ect on the outside of the cart and place a piece of Plexiglas over the top to protect the batteries. So all I will need to do is roll the cart over to the wires that come in from the combiner box and plug those into the charge controller, attach the earth ground and it will be good to go. That's the idea thus far... Going to start building it tomorrow. I'll post some pictures of it when I'm done.
 
Building (2) 24 volt batteries; it came in 4 separate boxes. Going to use some left over rectangle steel tube (2x4 .120 wall), and some left over sheet metal (18g and some 1/8th inch plate) from a project to construct a rolling cart (similar to a welding cart) and have the batteries in an enclosure and the controller, inverter, ect on the outside of the cart and place a piece of Plexiglas over the top to protect the batteries. So all I will need to do is roll the cart over to the wires that come in from the combiner box and plug those into the charge controller, attach the earth ground and it will be good to go. That's the idea thus far... Going to start building it tomorrow. I'll post some pictures of it when I'm done.
Maybe use Anderson Plugs for the disconnect. Depending on the load, you could go all the way up to the SB350, which will hold 350 mcm cable and are rated for 500A. They have sizes in that part of the line, starting at the SB50. It all depends on the wire size and amperage you are using.

https://www.andersonpower.com/us/en/resources/SBseriesResourcesPage.html
 
So Sarge , what do you think of the BMS so far ?
I haven't found anything to complain about. The lowest of the 4 cells has gotten closer as I've been running this test. Before it was off 0.015V, now it's off by 0.003V. Once I figured out how to switch the Dashboard from Driving Mode to Display Mode I'm even happier with its readouts. The newer version of the App V3.1.1001 blue square white Elephant is much better then the Yellow Elephant version and everything is in English now.

I haven't put a big draw on the battery or BMS. I don't think I've pulled more than 12A at the most, if that. The fridge and phone charger are using 3.5-5.5A. The fridge runs about 10 minutes every half hour. I think I have about 24 hours of battery left. If so, this test ran everything for 4 days without any extra charging.

After recharging the battery, I'm going to repeat the test, but with both sides of the fridge set to refer, instead of half fridge/freezer. If what I have read about these type fridges plays out, I should get even a longer run time next time.

I'm at 13.2V and 29%.. Cell voltages are (3) 3.282V (1) 3.279V.... I have the bottom cutoff set for 2.875V or 11.5V and the top cutoff at 3.5V or 14.0V
 
I haven't found anything to complain about. The lowest of the 4 cells has gotten closer as I've been running this test. Before it was off 0.015V, now it's off by 0.003V. Once I figured out how to switch the Dashboard from Driving Mode to Display Mode I'm even happier with its readouts. The newer version of the App V3.1.1001 blue square white Elephant is much better then the Yellow Elephant version and everything is in English now.

I haven't put a big draw on the battery or BMS. I don't think I've pulled more than 12A at the most, if that. The fridge and phone charger are using 3.5-5.5A. The fridge runs about 10 minutes every half hour. I think I have about 24 hours of battery left. If so, this test ran everything for 4 days without any extra charging.

After recharging the battery, I'm going to repeat the test, but with both sides of the fridge set to refer, instead of half fridge/freezer. If what I have read about these type fridges plays out, I should get even a longer run time next time.

I'm at 13.2V and 29%.. Cell voltages are (3) 3.282V (1) 3.279V.... I have the bottom cutoff set for 2.875V or 11.5V and the top cutoff at 3.5V or 14.0V
Unfortunately I cannot comment on your 1st paragraph as I am using the PC app and iOS on my iPad.
Your test seems to be going well. The cells appear to be tracking each other with low delta V. Your settings are very similar to mine and they only require small tweaks as the tests are ongoing. Would love to hear your comments at higher discharge loads. During testing I typically discharge at 38 amps and increase up to 89 amps for 10 -15 min. So far very happy and can achieve capacities of between 1360 and 1580Wh depending on BMS settings. Waiting for my next batch of 10 x A grade cells to arrive - stuck somewhere due to Covid.
 
Unfortunately I cannot comment on your 1st paragraph as I am using the PC app and iOS on my iPad.
Your test seems to be going well. The cells appear to be tracking each other with low delta V. Your settings are very similar to mine and they only require small tweaks as the tests are ongoing. Would love to hear your comments at higher discharge loads. During testing I typically discharge at 38 amps and increase up to 89 amps for 10 -15 min. So far very happy and can achieve capacities of between 1360 and 1580Wh depending on BMS settings. Waiting for my next batch of 10 x A grade cells to arrive - stuck somewhere due to Covid.
I have a bunch of Macs and hardly ever go into Windows, although I have Win 7 Pro on 1 and Win 10 Pro on another. So I haven't tried the PC App, yet. I could launch Windows in a VM, but haven't tried it yet. I think I'm going to see if the PC app will run under XP, as I have an old Thinkpad gathering dust.

The largest thing I had to put a load on them, was a Bestek 300W inverter I bought 2 years ago and left it sitting in the box. After I got my battery built, I hooked it up and heard a loud pop and smelled burnt electronics. Yeah I know I was stupid not to test it when I first got it. Now before I spend more money on another inverter, I have to figure out how much inverter I might need. With 300W I could run my MBP and Monitor with room to spare. But I only want to buy one this time. Maybe 1kW or 1.5kW, but I'm not sure.
 
I have a bunch of Macs and hardly ever go into Windows, although I have Win 7 Pro on 1 and Win 10 Pro on another. So I haven't tried the PC App, yet. I could launch Windows in a VM, but haven't tried it yet. I think I'm going to see if the PC app will run under XP, as I have an old Thinkpad gathering dust.

The largest thing I had to put a load on them, was a Bestek 300W inverter I bought 2 years ago and left it sitting in the box. After I got my battery built, I hooked it up and heard a loud pop and smelled burnt electronics. Yeah I know I was stupid not to test it when I first got it. Now before I spend more money on another inverter, I have to figure out how much inverter I might need. With 300W I could run my MBP and Monitor with room to spare. But I only want to buy one this time. Maybe 1kW or 1.5kW, but I'm not sure.
Bummer on the Bestek. Seeing that you are thinking of scrapping it , why not open it up and poke around a bit. Normally capacitors go with a 'pop' so maybe a cheap fix. Alternative is to get help from a known techie near you that won't rip you off.
As far as the PC app goes , I am under the impression that it will run on XP and Win 7.
 
Bummer on the Bestek. Seeing that you are thinking of scrapping it , why not open it up and poke around a bit. Normally capacitors go with a 'pop' so maybe a cheap fix. Alternative is to get help from a known techie near you that won't rip you off.
As far as the PC app goes , I am under the impression that it will run on XP and Win 7.
I opened it, but they hid the screws under the 4 rubber pads on the bottom, so I destroyed the plastic case prying on it. It was only $45 so I'm not out a lot. The bummer is they had a bunch of good reviews when I bought it and it was pure sine wave. I was even looking at their 1000W one, too. Now I'll wait till I find a deal on a lower tier 1 or better. I don't want to get a 600W and then need a 1,000W, 1,500W, or 2,000W. On the other hand I don't want to go way more what I'd need, too. I missed out on a Renogy 1,000W Inverter/Charger on Craigslist here. It was listed closer to me for $200, then a week later it showed up on Craigslist in a different town 1.5 hours away, and they dropped the price to $150. The seller had moved and wasn't coming back this way. In the ad he said he was selling it because it wouldn't do Lithium. If you looked at the charger specs, the AGM-1 setting would work for a LFP. 14.1V on Boost and then drops to 13.4V on Float. Plus it's not like I would use the charger side very often. At $150, I'd take my chances.
 
It's good to hear they're still shipping in close to 30 days with everything that's going on. I wasn't sure I believed sea shipping that fast when I heard it. Sending a balikbyon box sea shipping to the Philippines has taken me 4 or 5 months before.
What is the going shipping rate to the USA by sea? I got a quote to ship them to the Philippines and she said she had a great shipper for that and it was only $220 for 16 cells. I'm ultimately building a system to take there I just hate having anything shipped there you never know when they will decide to hit you with super high import fees. As with everything there it's hit and miss and you just don't know.
Amy was great, so much better then any of the other Alibaba sellers I've spoken with in the past.
I just got nervouse about buying with the whole world locked down. I'd like to know what those cost to ship to me in the USA but I don't want to bother her untill I'm ready. Just got laid off this week so it may have to wait.
 
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I'd like to know what those cost to ship to me in the USA but I don't want to bother her until I'm ready. Just got laid off this week so it may have to wait.

I placed my order for 8 cells yesterday shipped via boat to USA "all taxes paid to the door" for $317. Still can't believe I just ordered 560ah for under a grand. Granted that doesn't include the BMS and time....but still.
 
I placed my order for 8 cells yesterday shipped via boat to USA "all taxes paid to the door" for $317. Still can't believe I just ordered 560ah for under a grand. Granted that doesn't include the BMS and time....but still.
Yep, imagine that, for the cost of One Battleborn ! let alone 5 BB's @ $5K.
But you will need 2, 4S-BMS and a box/casing or something to put the cells in when done. Even with that on top, it's not that much when you really ponder it.
 
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