MartyByrde
Off-Grid Innovator
Can you clarify the positioning a little more?
Got it thanks
Will a heat laser work?
[FIXED] Careful if you ordered Apexium DIY Box (melted fuse cover)
- Thread starter MartyByrde
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Lt.Dan
Solar Wizard
You are still using the nut as current carrying. Flip the bus bar over so there is copper-to-copper contact.
MartyByrde
Off-Grid Innovator
I hope I don’t have to buy anything and Docan makes me whole. What a shit show. I need to get this up and running today even if it’s a short temporary workaround. Any ideas of parts that I can run into town instead of waiting for shipping?
MartyByrde
Off-Grid Innovator
can you clarify what you mean by the BMS was bypassed and current path ignored?
Flip the busbar over, replace the fuse holder (a local autopart store might have a replacement fuse holder).
alternatively you can remove 1 of the terminals and use that hole as entry for a wire, crimp a lug on it and connect it to the busbar from the BMS. (Wouldn't recommend that as final solution off course but it will get you up and running)
alternatively you can remove 1 of the terminals and use that hole as entry for a wire, crimp a lug on it and connect it to the busbar from the BMS. (Wouldn't recommend that as final solution off course but it will get you up and running)
houseofancients
Solar Wizard
there is quite a big difference between the Seplos ( official ) build instruction videos and this apexium manual...
in any case glad i use the Seplos video's .
in any case glad i use the Seplos video's .
Neil H
New Member
this is from the V3 instructions
Both mistakes are not in the Seplos video: the PEM nut is facing backwards, not part of the circuit, and there is NO washer between busbar and fuse. (in their video the busbar is on top of the fuse, but that doesn't matter)
Only advantage of the fuse on top is easier access when you need to replace it.
The image above as posted by @Neil H is how I would recommend it (busbar / fuse or fuse / busbar is equal)
Only advantage of the fuse on top is easier access when you need to replace it.
The image above as posted by @Neil H is how I would recommend it (busbar / fuse or fuse / busbar is equal)
houseofancients
Solar Wizard
which is exactly as one would expect it...
stand -> crush rings -> busbars -> fuse -> washer -> lock washer -> nut
MartyByrde
Off-Grid Innovator
Like the main busbar? I would have it go to a 250a fuse in between .
from the BMS. (Wouldn't recommend that as final solution off course but it will get you up and running)
houseofancients
Solar Wizard
look at the video on assembly, the apexium is just a rebadged seplos mason box
houseofancients
Solar Wizard
agreed... there are many folks who bought these boxes and would want to verify their build ASAP !
MartyByrde
Off-Grid Innovator
So looking at it again it’s not a nut but part of the bar. It just looks like a nut. Do you recommend still putting it on the opposite side?
400A fuse on 280Ah battery is not totally pointless as these batteries can sustain over 500A for at least a half minute and thousands of amps momentarily. Of course wiring and BMS should be also rated for 400A in that case.
For temporary fix I’d clean the contact surfaces of the bus bars and fuse with scotchbrite and assemble fuse holder back together(assuming that fuse holder has some structural strenght left), this time without the washers ”C”
If I'm seeing it correctly, it does look like an odd connection as illustrated by the pictures in the manual. It appears to limit the contact surface area to a small ring.
If that center insulated bus bar is flexible enough to allow a flat (parallel, not bent or angled) connection on the other side of the cross bar, and if the bolt can pass through it from the far side to the threaded portion on the near side, and if there is no obstruction (that screw in the image that appears to be sticking up on the back side?) to prevent this configuration, then it might be a good idea to move that connector to the inner side of the cross bar. It would mean a much better contact (more surface area) between the cross bar and the insulated bar. Just my opinion as a solar noob with some electrical background.
Lt.Dan
Solar Wizard
From Seplos Video at 1:46. This is correct. I would deem Apexium's manual just unreliable entirely at this point.
I’m sorry, I misunderstood some of the pictures.
Look at EVERYTHING between the BMS and the overheated parts and be COMPLETELY certain all current carrying components are in direct FLAT TIGHT contact with copper ONLY, no washers, no nuts, NOTHING between conductors and bussbars.
The good news is IF the BMS still works, after reconnecting things directly, without washers in between, you have a spare set of terminals, so, with new cables you should be able to get these up and running.
Actually, this would be correct. The lower washer provides support for the bussbar, to push full contact between the bar, and the fuse end.
However, this instruction is for A FUSE HOLDER… not a pair of bussbars…
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