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I have a solar water heating panel which developed a leak when it froze. The leak is small and at a solder joint. I can solder it but it will be difficult. Has anyone one had good results with a epoxy or other coating. The water pressure is about 75 lbs. Any information will be appreciated.

What are you trying to power and what are the ratings of the device voltage and current ?

Is it possible that the BMS is shutting off the inverter ? Is this a problem at night when the battery is not being charged ?

You should have a voltage rating for PV2 but what I was suggesting was to connect the pv2 panel to the pv1 controller. That would be only the PV2 panel and its associated wiring. If that works it shows the controller is working. If that is the case remove PV1 from the breaker and connect PV2...

Can you connect PV2 to the controller that does not work?

I have two sets of panels one east one west. Is there a advantage in using two SCC so that lesser producing panels don't affect the other set?

It is required that the area below and in front of a electrical panel has to be clear for safe working access. This applies to anything not just batteries.

If these packages were not properly labeled how did they get through customs?

EPEVER an series

Just use the solar converter to feed a battery charger. What is the three phase voltage and is it delta or WYE ?

Looking at the epever solar charge controllers some have the negative lead grounded. What is the reason for this and why does it seem to apply only to the smaller units.

You should never allow any spot on your body to be grounded.

If the situation is so bad that you have exhausted al other sources of power having a car with a empty tank might not be the best solution.

You could use a lighting controller which could be used to turn on the charger at night. This would not take care of the low light conditions but will solve the night time for about $15.00.

Amazon has connectors like you want. In one case there are 4 connectors mounted to a two gang box for around $45.00. You could just remove the connectors and install them in your combiner box.

Is the meter set on a dc amp scale greater than 5 amps and is the meter connected to the positive and negative cables on the panel ? There should be nothing else connected just the panel and the meter. If the meter still shows .5 amp cover part of the panel and see if there is a change.

It sounds as if you have not purchased the devices you wish to use so you can select 12 volt devices which can run from the battery no inverter required. Many of the 12 volt devices are very efficient. The inverter consumes .9 amp at no load so would use most of your capacity when doing no work...

Re the welded studs 1-Are all of the studs aluminum ? 2-In a photo showing both the 6mm studs and the 8 mm studs it appeared that the plate for the 8 mm stud was larger then the plate for the 6 mm size. If that is the case it would seem that choosing a cell with a large pad on the cell and a 8...

Where did you find the mounting brackets for the panels ?

It is possible to have a UL field inspection. My experience with this involved electrical equipment which were up dated and the new assembly had not been approved as a assembly. These changes were normally done on a weekend and we would get a inspection from a local person who was retired from...

There is no reason to use "12 volt panels" have you done a audit to work out what the electrical load is and if solar is your only source of power how long you would need to provide power from the batteries.

1- How did you provide the switching between the generator and the solar supply ? 2-Using a sensitive meter to check for a neutral to ground lug connection can fool you as it is so sensitive a better way to check is to use some thing which draws some current like a 100 watt incandescent lamp...

In the case that the wire size is increased due to voltage drop go ahead and use a fuse or breaker that matches the load. If I have a 15 amp circuit and need to use #6 wire there is nothing to be gained by using a 50 amp fuse or breaker and it will prevent a disconnect in the case that the...

I cannot locate the information by Ghostwriter66 re how to buy from China. Could someone point me to it?

To make a estimate of costs you first need to know what the power company is providing. Is this the cost to bring power to the property line with additional costs to extend it to the meter location. I assume they will provide 240 volt but at how many amps, who owns the transformer?

I would think of a alternate source of power for the radio and any critical items incase the bms shuts things down. Just a small battery.

The receptacle just provides contacts so what ever voltage you apply to the terminals it conducts to the sockets. The voltage and current rating is just a convention so that you can provide a power supply which matches the device you are using.

Thhn or thwn is going to be 19 strands. Try talking to local electrical contractors you may be able to find roll ends for scrap prices. By using this type of wire you are buying a product which is made to recognized standards.

Just curious I was reading the thread and wondered about the priority. Did not mean to imply that you or anyone else was ignoring safety.

Just a question what kind of priority is given to the various devices or systems? Thinking about your health and safety I would think that any sort of fire protection, a radio and the generator must be near the top of the list. Just curious.

You might try looking for a 240x120 . If the only load is the pump at 240 volt and 5 amps you don't need a transformer with a tapped winding.

There are several fans made either for attic fans or to cool chicken coops. These are the fans and the solar panel and they seem to start at $25.00. Most list the watts not the cfm there is one which is two fans and the solar panel for $60.00 which is rated at 135 cfm. If your kiln is 4x10...

It would seem that if the manufacturer felt it was important enough to do testing under both conditions and publish those results and include it on the data sheet they should clarify just what is required. Along the same line there must be a proper method of connecting cables or bus bars to the...

Look up information from Palomar they sell ferrite devices. You want to read their article.

Go a salvage yard and look for a electrical service entrance section should be about six feet tall. You can get the bus bars and drill your holes as required. Get the standoff insulators while you are there. I would try to find tinned copper but aluminum will work.