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diy solar

1999 Chevy High-top 48V build

jaepadilla

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Joined
Feb 29, 2020
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9
Hello,
First time poster, long time follower...

I am thinking of an all-in-one setup for the simplicity and future expansion something like the:

EG4 3kW Off-Grid Inverter
EG4-LifePower4 Lithium Battery | 48V 100AH​

I have a 1999 Chevy high-top I bought for next to nothing several years ago. I'm finally in the design/build stage of a "van-life," build.
I live in Albuquerque and work in Denver for several weeks at a time. I work in the field for 3 days, 2 nights (provided hotel), and when back in Denver, I would sleep in the van one night then back in the field for 3 days and 2 nights. After 6 days I would have 24 hours off, basically 2 nights in the van. During the single nights I would just sleep in the van in a secured parking lot with access to a gym and shower. For the 24 hour period I would most likely stay at a local campground with access to shore power. I would also think about purchasing a 12V to 48V charger like the one from Sterling:
Sterling Power DC Battery to Battery Charger 12v input to 48V output

Most of the items I'll be running will all be 12V and I will install the appropriate 48V to 12V converter. I will have a small 110V TV for occasional use, a Yeti style cooler and plans for a small mini-split style AC for summer time if I can meet the power requirements. Generally I read books or surf the web on my phone after work. I've found a company that makes a heavy duty roof rack system for high-top vans and I believe I could slap at least 2 455W solar panels from Santan Solar on the roof while still maintaining a bit of the "Stealth" look. Additionally the van will be as well insulated as I can make it.
https://store.santansolar.com/produ...4-half-cell-mono-solar-panel/?ref=errolprowse
https://vantech.us/product/h1-diy-rack-system-for-conversion-vans/

Based off Energy Audit tool someone smarter than me posted on the forums (thanks for that!) I calculated that at full bore, I would require 2500W-Hrs if every thing were running at once. This doesn't include the small AC I'm thinking of using. I'll cross that bridge after winter.
Full Load W-hrs.2483W-Hrs.
min Battery capacity W-Hrs
5750.4
W-Hrs.
min Battery capacity A-Hrs
119.8
Amp Hour
Min Solar Cell Wattage
862.6
Watts

I don't believe I'll be anywhere near using the Full Load while boon docking and while on shore power I'll have greater flexibility. During the times I'm away the system will be turned off.

I'm really trying to just cross the lower case i's and dot the t's at this point. I've already budgeted for the cabling and connectors as well as fusing and circuit breakers I'm really not sure if I will need a shunt or any type of additional cold/hot weather protection. If anyone has any additional input I would really appreciate it!
Thanks!

TLDR; I have a van.
 
Three comments I can make, from direct personal experience:

1. Your panels will not give anywhere near the output at which they are rated, unless they are correctly angled relative to the sun rays striking them. Best to more realistically think through how many watt-hours your panels can actually provide.

2. Summer heat will decrease the output of your panels, which can make powering a mini-split doubley challenging, given the watt-hours required to run a mini-split.
You might need to resort to shore power or generator power quite frequently for battery charging, therefore.
Another reason to re-think your A.C. loads relative to your system's capacity to deliver.
3. Forget circuit breakers, unless you are purchasing top-notch breakers. Cheap (read "amazon") breakers put significant voltage drops into your wiring, at the breaker connections, which waste D.C. power by turning power into heat. Although, at 48V this won't be as severe an issue as in a lower voltage system.

Overall, I believe you might be overestimating how many watt-hours your system can deliver, relative to your proposed A.C. loads, generator and shore power notwithstanding.

EDIT:
One last thought, not by direct experience, but rather a theory; I'm just not sure a high-frequency inverter, such as the AIO you are considering, would be the best choice in a mobile application. My presumption is these solid-state, wall-mount units are designed for residential installation, which don't present the vibration and road shock such as in a vehicle.
I would stick with a low-frequency, vehicle-mount inverter/charger.
 
Last edited:
If you’re planning to mostly run 12V devices, why have a 48V system with 2 DC-DC converters and their associated losses?
 
Three comments I can make, from direct personal experience:

1. Your panels will not give anywhere near the output at which they are rated, unless they are correctly angled relative to the sun rays striking them. Best to more realistically think through how many watt-hours your panels can actually provide.

2. Summer heat will decrease the output of your panels, which can make powering a mini-split doubley challenging, given the watt-hours required to run a mini-split.
You might need to resort to shore power or generator power quite frequently for battery charging, therefore.
Another reason to re-think your A.C. loads relative to your system's capacity to deliver.
3. Forget circuit breakers, unless you are purchasing top-notch breakers. Cheap (read "amazon") breakers put significant voltage drops into your wiring, at the breaker connections, which waste D.C. power by turning power into heat. Although, at 48V this won't be as severe an issue as in a lower voltage system.

Overall, I believe you might be overestimating how many watt-hours your system can deliver, relative to your proposed A.C. loads, generator and shore power notwithstanding.

EDIT:
One last thought, not by direct experience, but rather a theory; I'm just not sure a high-frequency inverter, such as the AIO you are considering, would be the best choice in a mobile application. My presumption is these solid-state, wall-mount units are designed for residential installation, which don't present the vibration and road shock such as in a vehicle.
I would stick with a low-frequency, vehicle-mount inverter/charger.
Thank you for the reply.
1. I agree the panels will not give the max output. I will hopefully only boon dock a few times a month with the ability to charge the batteries on shore or generator more often than not.

2. The mini split is definitely for after the new year. I've been looking at models from Cruise and Comfort that might meet my needs. I'll get through the colder months and reassess my power needs in the spring.

3. Great advice that will save money.

4. Sounds like I do need to do some more research regarding the high vs low frequency setups. I really liked the idead of a 48v setup with the expandability and the convenience of a quick all-in-one is enticing. I am waiting to hear back from signaturesolar regarding the use of the EG4 models in a mobile setup. If it would be better to run all Victron style (just as a reference) equipment I will look into that as well.


djnorth said:
If you’re planning to mostly run 12V devices, why have a 48V system with 2 DC-DC converters and their associated losses?

Good question, I may have a 24V or 48V device to run as well. I don't know how to answer the second part very well.

Thank you both for the replies, I get in my head sometimes about my expectations and it's good to hear the Devils Advocate side.
So far I believe I can still get close to:
900W of solar on the roof. Shore/Generator power is a must for my build.

Batteries:
I like the 48V EG4's but I'm open to the SOK or even a few of the Chin 200AH 12V. I'm still unclear if multiple 12V but 200AH is better or one 48V but 100AH. Either way I like the idea of being to add on later on.

Charge controller/Inverter:
I like the EG4/Growatt style all in one but not certain it's made for mobile applications. I don't have a problem using a low freq. system, it's just more wiring and more expense?

This is a great forum!
 
The AIO inverters have a high standby power requirements that need more battery storage to compensate. I would look at staying 12v, Dometic has 12VDC RV Ac unites. They have 2 sizes, this is the smaller one. https://www.dometic.com/en-us/profe...truck-parking-coolers/dometic-rtx-1000-262672 - Caution they are pricey.
They also have 12V inverter coolers/fridges. By picking individual components you don't have to compromise on each function. Pick the best mppt, inverter/charger and DC-DC charger for you. If needs change you can upgrade each part, selling the old one to recoup some cost.
 
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