First build this summer, Canada, VW T4 lwb, 48V 100Ah or 1x 48V 50Ah now and add another later too be smoother with my budget build?

[12VoltInstalls]

It is after all only 'temporary'

Everything is temporary.
Today’s world would be unrecognizable to someone from 1824. 2224 will be unrecognizable to us -if we could see it.

 

[JohnD0h]

Unless the battery pack is inside with you, that limits your options

Of course my battery will be inside the vehicle and at a good "normal" temperature!

 

[Bop]

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[JohnD0h]

Don't laugh- I have seen many campers with their battery packs fitted externally under the floor (even factory made ones like that) and even on the roof in some cases... and what happens if you leave the camper with everything off and it gets down in temp???

Do you let your house go under 0* celcius in winter?

 

[JohnD0h]

What's going wrong in this world?!?!

Is it's me who is stupid as shit?!
Disable of express myself enough clearly in English?

Have you read the first post in page 2 before writing anything?!

 

[Bop]

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[Bop]

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[JohnD0h]

Last winter the minimum overnight temp was 15C, most nights I had the ceiling fan in the bedroom running all night...

It was only a rhetorical question!

 

[JohnD0h]

Well you said you were looking at a 12v 100Ah system, while at the same time you said you wanted 5kwh of storage...

So I can't be bothered anymore trying to figure out what you meant- have fun with it all, I'm off
(as for the rest of your comments- no comment from me lol)

The first year, I’ll have access to the AC from where I’ll do my build so I only need DC for led, diesel heater, water pump some computer fans… if I don’t miss anything and for that I can go with a Li Time 12V or 12.8V 100Ah and a fuse box and keep the cost around CAD 500$.
And in a year I'll build a second system separate from this.

 

[HarryN]

Modern vehicles, especially German ones, use active alternator control.

This is different than vehicles that were built in the last century.

What this means is that no matter if your house battery pack is 12, 24 or 48 volt, it will require a battery to battery charger to charge from the normal vehicle alternator.

As you have seen, there are a lot of views on this, which means that a lot of things can work - it is a matter if you are determined enough.

For me, any inverter over 500 watts is 24 volt and that remains my suggestion for the typical DIY van owner, even if I go to higher voltages for some applications.

 

[Bop]

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[JohnD0h]

What this means is that no matter if your house battery pack is 12, 24 or 48 volt, it will require a battery to battery charger to charge from the normal vehicle alternator.

Thank for this very good answer!
I'll keep it in my notes that I need a DC to DC charger.

 

[JohnD0h]

So I can't be bothered anymore trying to figure out what you meant- have fun with it all, I'm off
(as for the rest of your comments- no comment from me lol)

Thank you!

 

[JohnD0h]

Banish that thought.
That’s 8x or more depending on battery of typical acceptable charging rates.

 

[OffGridForGood]

Can his system just draw the current it needs/is set up to draw?
I mean, the charging station doesn't push the current.
Charge at 200 A or whatever he sets his system up for?

 

[JohnD0h]

Can his system just draw the current it needs/is set up to draw?
I mean, the charging station doesn't push the current.
Charge at 200 A or whatever he sets his system up for?

At 3:18 in the video you see the info of the charging!

 

[JohnD0h]

Hi @JohnD0h

I guess you want what you want & are experienced enough to sort it out.

So have you done a “Load Calculation Spreadsheet” / “Energy Audit” ? If so, if you post that here, I can be of more help.

I see you have 4 battery choices, but without knowing the other system components, you are asking the forum members for opinions or design help only identifying part of your intentions. The forum can be helpful to you, but the more info you provide the better the help might be.

So “What is the best path for you”? ,,, IMO, slow down & perform as much of a complete design as you are capable of, post that, & get that design vetted here.

12vdc / 24vdc / 48vdc ,,, Why are you choosing 48vdc in such a small RV “VW T-4” ?

First, thanks for this great and intelligent answer!

If you want, you can look at the first post of the second page, where I have update what will be my build and what I'm here to learn and have more feedback about it.

And I'll PM you with a question!

 

[12VoltInstalls]

the charging station doesn't push the current

Right. But the weeds grew, and the 10mm socket got lost in the growth.

 

[OffGridForGood]

Right. But the weeds grew, and the 10mm socket got lost in the growth.

He can set up any chraging current to suit his needs. A 48kW electrical panel doesn't push 48kW when you plug in a toaster, the toaster draws the 1.8kW it needs, and the un-used potential is safely waiting for other loads.
In his case, the 7.2kW charging station is just potential, and he could set his charging to 2kW if that is best for his system.

 

[JohnD0h]

The 240V to 12V/24V charger of the guys in the video output 100A from what I understand at 3:18 of her video.
But he have 24V 300Ah battery, I don't know if or how much does it matter.
I still need to learn more about electricity!