First build this summer, Canada, VW T4 lwb, 48V 100Ah or 1x 48V 50Ah now and add another later too be smoother with my budget build?

[Deleted member 91418]

That's a neat little device. I also like how it has outlets used in different countries, too. You may be on to something here JohnD0h, good find!

So I'm assuming you would need to plug in a regular charger from that to your batteries for getting them charged up? I'd think a 25A charger would suffice for the job?

 

[yabert]

If I'm right, I think I have found just what I need to charge from EV Level 2 public station!

How converter + charger could be a better solution than just a charger?
Don't complicate things for nothing. Most charger can take AC 90V ~ 264V.
You need something like this, but look at the price and the 48V version is only available in 3 kW as the 6 kW start at 108V. https://canev.com/collections/chargers

Your only low cost solution is to find a 500W - 1 kW charger, but then you will need to stay many hours at the charge station ($$) or at any regular 120V outlet (free?).

 

[JohnD0h]

How converter + charger could be a better solution than just a charger?
Don't complicate things for nothing. Most charger can take AC 90V ~ 264V.
You need something like this, but look at the price and the 48V version is only available in 3 kW as the 6 kW start at 108V. https://canev.com/collections/chargers

Your only low cost solution is to find a 500W - 1 kW charger, but then you will need to stay many hours at the charge station ($$) or at any regular 120V outlet (free?).

From the description of the converter quote:
"It is a very useful device for camper vans and RVs. Van dwellers who want to plug in to electric car chargers to charge their batteries or operate appliances can easily do so now. "
And it's CAD 300$.
What wrong with that?!

 

[yabert]

What wrong with that?!

Nothing except that it's NOT a charger.

You can also look at the EG4 Chargeverter who is quite low cost for the power.

EG4® Chargeverter | 48v 100A Battery Charger [Legacy Product]

Introducing the EG4 Chargeverter: a powerful 48V battery charger with 100A capacity, versatile input options, and built-in breaker for added protection.

eg4electronics.com

 

[JohnD0h]

Nothing except that it's NOT a charger.

You can also look at the EG4 Chargeverter who is quite low cost for the power.

EG4® Chargeverter | 48v 100A Battery Charger [Legacy Product]

Introducing the EG4 Chargeverter: a powerful 48V battery charger with 100A capacity, versatile input options, and built-in breaker for added protection.

eg4electronics.com

I know that it's not a charger, and I have mention it in my above post.
I just want a option for when I need to charge my battery and that I'm on the road and I'll able to do it for under CAD 500$!

BTW on another subject, I've take a look at your Vanabolt on TheSamba forum, nice job!
Something I would like to do in the eventuality that I need to change the engine of my van!

 

[OffGridForGood]

On that same website you can see they have just the J1772 F - the part that would be on a car - this leaves the conductors on the interior side up to you to wire, and provides a recepticle that will fit the EV charging station. Looks like they have free shipping to addresses in Canada.

 

[yabert]

On that same website you can see they have just the J1772 F - the part that would be on a car

You are right. I would suggest JohnD0h to buy the J1772 to Nema 14-50 adapter with the 8 awg cables.

From the website, there is already the J1772 controller inside the adapter: ''This adapter works by using a specially designed circuit inside the plug that basically tricks the charging station into thinking a vehicle is connected and ready to charge''.

I've done a J1772 controller with 3 resistors and a switch in the past and that work, but only on most charging station. On few charging station my setup didn't work. It's really frustrating when that happen and you are far from any other charging station.
I hope their ''specially designed circuit'' work with all charging station.

Now the tough part will be to find a ''good'' 400$ charger for his battery (24V or 48V?)

 

[RV8R]

- Build Budget
- EV Charging
- Starting with 1 2400Wh 48vdc battery & adding another later

As I read into the Title, I considered “The Budget” was important.

It is a VW T-4 ,,, Not a Tiffin

@JohnD0h ,,, Does Your Budget really matter ?

Van building is just a long series of compromises.

IMHO, you're better off with 12vdc or 24vdc.

 

[yabert]

Budget build...
A 120$ J1772 adapter + a 150$ charger (Mean well RSP-500). It seem like a low budget solution to me.
But the RSP-500 is an open frame fan cooled power supply who can only output around 700W, so I don't consider it as a ''good'' charger.
It will work, on 120V and 240V, but a 2.5 kWh battery will need up to 4 hours to charge, so what about the 5-6 kWh Johnd0h expect to have

 

[RV8R]

Budget build...
A 120$ J1772 adapter + a 150$ charger (Mean well RSP-500). It seem like a low budget solution to me.
But the RSP-500 is an open frame fan cooled power supply who can only output around 700W, so I don't consider it as a ''good'' charger.
It will work, on 120V and 240V, but a 2.5 kWh battery will need up to 4 hours to charge, so what about the 5-6 kWh Johnd0h expect to have

With low resolution design & budget, “we” are assuming lots here. I have worked 4 decades in the construction industry with budgets & design, & the way to start this process is by identifying the needs & them preparing a rough budget to see if it is economically feasible.

I see so many DIYers, just start buying things even without a design let alone a budget. Without needs being identified, design being researched & performed, & a rough budget being calculated @JohnD0h is proceeding in the dark.

He is starting out with a 2.4 kWh battery ,,, $270 ( adapter & charger ), might be nothing for you & I along with the additional cost items that will be required to make it work, but might be an expense better spent elsewhere ,,, depending upon needs, design, & budget.

Intended use ,,, Fantasy & Reality are 2 separate things. What the heck does that mean ? OP might have the idea of fantasy of rollin up on an EV Charge Station with his ICE T-4 & charging up in 15mins. Where in reality ,,, due to “The Power @ Hand”; be turned away, or limited plug in time, or charged by the minute, or whatever else we can’t fathom our Governments or Power Providers or other entities will dictate to us. Fantasy vs Reality

,,, RV8R ,,, You paranoid freak !! ,,, Well here ya go ,,, Fantasy relies upon reality & the control of others not infiltrating the Fantasy;

Electric vehicles in B.C.

electricvehicles.bchydro.com

Depending upon the area you might have your fantasy play out & what changes the authorities are making, might throw a wrench into the mix.

ICE vehicles rollin up @ EV charge stations ,,, How long do you think “they” will allow that.



That is all I am trying to convey ,,, that & a reconsideration on 12vdc or 24vdc.

 

[JohnD0h]

Budget build...
A 120$ J1772 adapter + a 150$ charger (Mean well RSP-500). It seem like a low budget solution to me.
But the RSP-500 is an open frame fan cooled power supply who can only output around 700W, so I don't consider it as a ''good'' charger.
It will work, on 120V and 240V, but a 2.5 kWh battery will need up to 4 hours to charge, so what about the 5-6 kWh Johnd0h expect to have

Thanks again with your big help that make me learn!
In the description of the J1772 adapter at the bottom, You can read this:
"Note, this adapter is not suitable for RV use due to the absence of a neutral connection on the J1772 - it's intended only for appliances that don't require neutral."
I don't know how to interpret that, since my electrical knowledge is my main weakness!

When I write budget build, I mean that I won't buy a 2000$ toilet or fridge. I'll will always looking for something that will be good and well build, but at the best price that I can found and that meets my needs, nothing superfluous.
I'll be a proud owner of a bucket toilet!

 

[yabert]

"Note, this adapter is not suitable for RV use due to the absence of a neutral connection on the J1772 - it's intended only for appliances that don't require neutral."
I don't know how to interpret that, since my electrical knowledge is my main weakness!

Yeah, it's not a problem as J1772 also only have 3 conductors (120V + 120V + ground at 240V or 120V + Neutral + ground at 120V).
The 4 conductors in the Nema 14-50 plug is to have 120V + 120V + Neutral + Ground, but your charger should not need this.

I intentionally remove the 2 communication conductors for clarity (5 pins in the J1772 connector as there is proxy and pilot pins).

 

[lra23]

Yeah, it's not a problem as J1772 also only have 3 conductors (120V + 120V + ground at 240V or 120V + Neutral + ground at 120V).
The 4 conductors in the Nema 14-50 plug is to have 120V + 120V + Neutral + Ground, but your charger should not need this.

I intentionally remove the 2 communication conductors for clarity (5 pins in the J1772 connector as there is proxy and pilot pins).

How could one make any of the previously discussed J1772 to NEMA adapters work with the new version of the EG4 Chargeverter?

EG4 Chargeverter - GC | 48V 100A Battery Charger 5120W Output | 240/120V Input

EG4 Chargeverter GC: 48V, 100A battery charger with 5120W output. Versatile with 240/120V input, perfect for high-performance energy needs.

signaturesolar.com

 

[yabert]

How could one make any of the previously discussed J1772 to NEMA adapters work with the new version of the EG4 Chargeverter?

Simple.
Buy a J1772 to Nema adapter to be able to have power from J1772 charge station. https://www.evseadapters.com/products/j1772-to-14-50-adapter/
After, you change the NEMA L14-30P for Nema 14-50 on the Charverter or change Nema 14-50 for NEMA L14-30P on the adapter.

 

[lra23]

Simple.
Buy a J1772 to Nema adapter to be able to have power from J1772 charge station. https://www.evseadapters.com/products/j1772-to-14-50-adapter/
After, you change the NEMA L14-30P for Nema 14-50 on the Charverter or change Nema 14-50 for NEMA L14-30P on the adapter.

Thank you!
Quick follow up, does the charverter needs a neutral?

From the page you linked:
"Note, this adapter is not suitable for RV use due to the absence of a neutral connection on the J1772 – it’s intended only for appliances that don’t require neutral."

 

[yabert]

Thank you!
Quick follow up, does the charverter needs a neutral?

Look like the answer is no.

 

[lra23]

Thanks again!

Would an adapter like this one work?

Generator Transfer Switch Adapter Cord, 14-50P Male to L14-30R Female, 50 Amp to 4 Prong Generator Plug Adapter, Generator to House Adapter Cord, 50Amp STW 10 AWG, 1.5FT​

Amazon.com

 

[yabert]

To me, it don't make sens to add another adapter. It's more contacts who can go wrong/overheat.
Put a Nema 14-50 plug on the chargeverter.

 

[lra23]

To me, it don't make sens to add another adapter. It's more contacts who can go wrong/overheat.
Put a Nema 14-50 plug on the chargeverter.

Thank you for all the help!!!! I really appreciate it. Will try to implement it and report back.

 

[RichBenn]

I may have missed it here, but what do you need that much energy and 48V for? I have a VW T3 Westy camper with a propane heater, electric 12V fridge, stereo, etc. powered by 160 watts of solar and a 12V lithium 100aH. I NEVER run out of power.

On my 23 ft travel trailer, I have 400 watts solar, 200aH lithium battery, 2200 watt 12V inverter, propane cooktop, convection microwave, TV, stereo, etc. I NEVER run out of power.(note - probably 260aH would he better for non sunny areas)

I’m an electronics engineer. Doing some math to figure out reality on power usage is a must to get it right the first time. Using 12V the on small RVs IS the way to go. DC-DC converters waste energy. Inverters do too, but they can be switched off as needed, especially since the van or RV can use 12V for almost everything. A small inverter is a nice add-on for things like cpap machines, as they don’t waste as much energy as bigger inverters.

For a house, 48V is definitely the way to go. For a camper? 12V. If I missed something, please accept my apology.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

may have missed it here, but what do you need that much energy and 48V for? I have a VW T3 Westy camper with a propane heater, electric 12V fridge, stereo, etc. powered by 160 watts of solar and a 12V lithium 100aH. I NEVER run out of power.

12V fridge? An electric cooler?

23 ft travel trailer, I have 400 watts solar, 200aH lithium battery, 2200 watt 12V inverter, propane cooktop, convection microwave, TV, stereo, etc. I NEVER run out of power.(note - probably 260aH would he better for non sunny areas)

what do you need that much energy and 48V for?

Not everyone wants or can tolerate a minimalist though adequate system- especially if the region requires longer storage potential or they intend to be ‘dry camping’ offgrid for extended periods.

I myself am residentially 100% offgrid with ~5000Wh of battery and (currently) ~2kW of panels at 12V. It works for me, but here in Vermont ‘The Dark Months’ - Nov, Dec, Feb- are often a struggle. But it works.
Most people, however, could not tolerate the low power capacity and I wouldn’t recommend being that close to the edge as a general rule.

Nevertheless, a VW Westy 20kW is probably a bit on the robust side, yet with a LV3048 that would probably allow electric cooking and give them days on end of use in less than ideal sun conditions.