diy solar

diy solar

First build this summer, Canada, VW T4 lwb, 48V 100Ah or 1x 48V 50Ah now and add another later too be smoother with my budget build?

Hi everyone and thanks again for your help!

You make me redo my homework.
The first year, I’ll have access to the AC from where I’ll do my build so I only need DC for led, diesel heater, water pump some computer fans… if I don’t miss anything and for that I can go with a Li Time 12V or 12.8V 100Ah and a fuse box and keep the cost around CAD 500$.
And in a year I'll build a second system separate from this.
So I have one more year for planning my electrical system!

My van will be isolate and heat all the winter with a diesel heater.
Cooking and fridge will be on propane.
I don't want anything else than LiFePO4 Lithium Battery.

I know that my need will be around 2KWh/day and I want around 5KWh to 6KWh in battery.
So my second system will need to have 4KWh to 5KWh.
I keep the door open to go 12V, 24V, 48V!

***The goal of my post is to learn what do I need in my system to:***
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I have a question for my fellow Canadians who have solar panels installed horizontally on the roof of their vehicle!

I want to know how much cost effective it’s and what performance it give you during summer and winter in Canada?

If I choose to add solar to my build, it’ll probably be a panel between 400W to 550W and 60 or 66 cells minimum, from what I know about solar for now.

Thanks!
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What do I need to charge with an EV public charger (7.2kW)?
What do I need to charge with a car alternator?
What do I need to plug in a camping site?
What do I need to plug in a 120V AC house?

I have see on YouTube some people who have use the EV public station to charge the battery in their VR and that was working.
The best info I have found is from this video and it's look like it's working well with his 24V 300Ah battery:


From what I understand so far is that the terminal has a voltage of 240V, a useful power of 7.2KW with a J1772 connector.
With a 240V to 12V/24V charger, a J1772 to NEMA adapter, it is possible to charge 12V and 24V batteries.
I'm here to learn more details about how and with what I'll able to do it and have more user feedback.
It'a 4 minutes video, please take the time to watch it before answering something about EV charger.

Thanks for your reply, nothing again nobody, but come on guys, try to keep my post clean as possible, and it probably already have a lot of post where you can talk about the rest that I'm not here to learn!

Look at the first post in page 2 to see what I'm looking for now! Thanks!

(y)

Pat
 

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I'm seriously considering on making a thread that goes over my vehicle's system. I've kept everything dirt cheap, had chosen very-basic DIY stuff and (prepare to be upset users) only use PWM controllers for their reliability. While I do plan on upgrading to a DC/DC charger that's MPPT, my build wouldn't be considered 'cheap' anymore. I think it might be good for those who just need to get on solar quick without breaking the bank (as in cheap, I've invested $700cdn on my setup; can be even lower with LiFePO4 prices dropping) and can then upgrade further down the road.
 
Detritalgeo said:
Just got a Maple Leaf "Beaver" 3U pack. I got the heated version but there is no markings to say it has heaters installed.. It's identical to the Ruixu and can even use the same BMS monitoring software.

Maybe this heater version is more appropriate for your setup? The 3U form factor is good use of spaceand can be used in vertical orientation as well..

The heaters should kick on as long as a cell is below 5c but warmer than -25c..

View attachment 196738
Click to expand...
Thanks and yes I'm really considering Maple Leaf battery!

I hope to see DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse open one of them someday!
 
In general, your most durable / vibration resistant cells are cylindrical. Pouch cells are for when you just don't care. The prismatics are in between.

I am not aware of any substantial commercial scale automotive use of pouch cells that didn't have recalls.
 
As far as selecting your DC voltage, take a look at the DC appliances on the market and see what you can find.

In general you will want the highest voltage where you can find native appliances so no conversion is needed for a small system like you are planning.

Usually this is 24 volt. This is really annoying to me because I like 48 volt systems but it is helpful for building 24 volt systems. I only know of a handful of 48 volt DC refrigerators and other van DC items.

As you search through the market for 48 volt DC appliances, please post them. Thanks
 
Last edited:
Thanks for your reply, nothing again nobody, but come on guys, we try to keep my post clean as possible, and it probably already have a lot of post where you can talk about the rest that I'm not here to learn!

Look at the first post in page 2 to see what I'm looking for now! Thanks!

(y)
 
Last edited:
JohnD0h said:
What do I need to charge with an EV public charger (7.2kW)?
Click to expand...
You are planning a small battery 12, 24 or 48v
a 7200 W charging source would result in:
12v - 600A
24v - 300A
48v - 150A (maybe 48 makes best sense, to keep the amperage to a normally available BMS amperage value)
All of these options are too high for a small 50Ah battery pack -
From your uses, 2000W peak output:
12v - 160A
24v - 80A
48v - 40A
The 48v would give you the lowest cost option for wiring, and fuses/switches.
24v at 80A is not crazy high, but would mean your idea for charging from EV charger is out, because you will not be able to accept 300A charging.

I expect people break the charging sockets on EV's once in a while, perhaps you can order a replacement socket, to make an adapter for your car charging system. But these chargers are more than just a plug, they check for compatibility, voltage, communications. Not sure if you can just rig up an adpator and expect a charging station to send you power.
 
OffGridForGood said:
You are planning a small battery 12, 24 or 48v
a 7200 W charging source would result in:
12v - 600A
24v - 300A
48v - 150A (maybe 48 makes best sense, to keep the amperage to a normally available BMS amperage value)
All of these options are too high for a small 50Ah battery pack -
From your uses, 2000W peak output:
12v - 160A
24v - 80A
48v - 40A
The 48v would give you the lowest cost option for wiring, and fuses/switches.
24v at 80A is not crazy high, but would mean your idea for charging from EV charger is out, because you will not be able to accept 300A charging.

I expect people break the charging sockets on EV's once in a while, perhaps you can order a replacement socket, to make an adapter for your car charging system. But these chargers are more than just a plug, they check for compatibility, voltage, communications. Not sure if you can just rig up an adpator and expect a charging station to send you power.
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot for your answer!
I have see on YouTube some people who have use the EV public station to charge the battery in their VR and that was working.
The best info I have found is from this video and it's look like it's working well with his 24V 300Ah battery:


And I'm here to learn more details about how and with what I'll able to do it and have more user feedback.


Thank again!
 
Last edited:
HarryN said:
Thanks - that takes it off my list of vehicles that I will buy.



Click to expand...
Thanks for your reply, nothing again nobody, but come on guys, try to keep my post clean as possible, and it probably already have a lot of post where you can talk about the rest that I'm not here to learn!

Look at the first post in page 2 to see what I'm looking for now! Thanks!

(y)
 
JohnD0h said:
Hi everyone and thanks again for your help!

You make me redo my homework.
The first year, I’ll have access to the AC from where I’ll do my build so I only need DC for led, diesel heater, water pump some computer fans… if I don’t miss anything and for that I can go with a Li Time 12V or 12.8V 100Ah and a fuse box and keep the cost around CAD 500$.
And in a year I'll build a second system separate from this.

My van will be isolate and heat all the winter with a diesel heater.
Cooking and fridge will be on propane.
I don't want anything else than LiFePO4 Lithium Battery.

So I have one more year for planning my electrical system!

I know that my need will be around 2KWh/day and I want around 5KWh to 6KWh in battery.

***The goal of my post is to learn what do I need in my system to:***

What do I need to charge with an EV public charger (7.2kW)?
What do I need to charge with a car alternator?
What do I need to plug in a camping site?
What do I need to plug in a 120V AC house?

I keep the door open to go 12V or 48V!


I also have a question for my fellow Canadians who have solar panels installed horizontally on the roof of their vehicle!

I want to know how much cost effective it’s and what performance it give you during summer and winter in Canada?

If I choose to add solar to my build, it’ll probably be a commercial panel between 400W to 550W and 60 or 66 cells from what I know about solar for now.

Thanks!

Pat
Click to expand...

Steps:
- Look at the smallest version of the battery pack that you plan to have in the van.
- Look at the data sheet for the specific battery that you plan to use

On the data sheet, it will give you the suggested charge rate in amps.

Select chargers that will keep the charging amps at or below the number on the battery data sheet.

Make sure that if you have two chargers running at the same time, that the "total" does not exceed the suggested charge amps on the battery data sheet for the smallest pack that you plan to use.
________________

So your next step is to post for us what the smallest battery pack that you have in mind is -and the info from the data sheet for what amps charge rate your battery pack can support.
 
JohnD0h said:
charge my setup with the EV public charger at 7.2kW
Click to expand...
Banish that thought.
That’s 8x or more depending on battery of typical acceptable charging rates.
JohnD0h said:
About the fact of being stealth as possible, it’s more when it come time to sleep in town to avoid “the knock”!
Click to expand...
So a roof rack with ‘skirts’ around the perimeter pretty much eliminates that visual issue.
JohnD0h said:
I keep the door open to go 12V or 48V!
Click to expand...
At 2000W in a 12V mobile system 24- or 48V makes absolutely NO sense whatsoever. For one thing, the watt-hours you need are going to be essentially the same physical size regardless of voltage
Bop said:
personally would stay with 12v as that is what the T4 runs already
Click to expand...
…that is a major factor imho
HarryN said:
only know of a handful of 48 volt DC refrigerators and other van DC items
Click to expand...
A 120V refrigerator is available for so little money often enough and instantly available replacement is possible from podunk to poshtown that there is no reason to plan one’s life around expensive DC appliances or inconvenient electric coolers.
Bop said:
2000W inverter is more than easily catered for at 12v
Click to expand...
Exactly. My QZRELB 2000W is only ~18W idle consumption, too
Bop said:
thats a bit more realistic ( but forget the EV charger altogether..)
Click to expand...
The reason being is that 7.2kW charge rate isn’t possible anyway.
highwaypirate said:
seriously considering on making a thread that goes over my vehicle's system. I've kept everything dirt cheap, had chosen very-basic DIY stuff and (prepare to be upset users) only use PWM controllers for their reliability
Click to expand...
I nicely written ‘technical paper” would probably benefit a lot of people imho.
 
OffGridForGood said:
What cables can safely carry 600A continuous to charge a battery for hours? 750MCM?
or start doubling up 4/0 welding cables?
Click to expand...
Right.
It in my opinion is in practical terms not possible. Of course in the ‘major’ or universe of possibility indeed possible in the subsets of possibility LOL
But why?

You don’t need a machete to slice a hot dog- it will do it, though.
I’ve been “doing off grid” with 12V for ~five years now. Successfully. I get nervous when things go to 100A charge rate, I could enable as much as 170A in sum if I wanted to now- but I don’t. :)
 
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