OffGridForGood
Catch, make or grow everything you can.
Ford F 150 Lightning?I am not aware of any substantial commercial scale automotive use of pouch cells that didn't have recalls.
Ford F 150 Lightning?I am not aware of any substantial commercial scale automotive use of pouch cells that didn't have recalls.
You are planning a small battery 12, 24 or 48vWhat do I need to charge with an EV public charger (7.2kW)?
Thanks a lot for your answer!You are planning a small battery 12, 24 or 48v
a 7200 W charging source would result in:
12v - 600A
24v - 300A
48v - 150A (maybe 48 makes best sense, to keep the amperage to a normally available BMS amperage value)
All of these options are too high for a small 50Ah battery pack -
From your uses, 2000W peak output:
12v - 160A
24v - 80A
48v - 40A
The 48v would give you the lowest cost option for wiring, and fuses/switches.
24v at 80A is not crazy high, but would mean your idea for charging from EV charger is out, because you will not be able to accept 300A charging.
I expect people break the charging sockets on EV's once in a while, perhaps you can order a replacement socket, to make an adapter for your car charging system. But these chargers are more than just a plug, they check for compatibility, voltage, communications. Not sure if you can just rig up an adpator and expect a charging station to send you power.
Ford F 150 Lightning?
Thanks for your reply, nothing again nobody, but come on guys, try to keep my post clean as possible, and it probably already have a lot of post where you can talk about the rest that I'm not here to learn!Thanks - that takes it off my list of vehicles that I will buy.
Hi everyone and thanks again for your help!
You make me redo my homework.
The first year, I’ll have access to the AC from where I’ll do my build so I only need DC for led, diesel heater, water pump some computer fans… if I don’t miss anything and for that I can go with a Li Time 12V or 12.8V 100Ah and a fuse box and keep the cost around CAD 500$.
And in a year I'll build a second system separate from this.
My van will be isolate and heat all the winter with a diesel heater.
Cooking and fridge will be on propane.
I don't want anything else than LiFePO4 Lithium Battery.
So I have one more year for planning my electrical system!
I know that my need will be around 2KWh/day and I want around 5KWh to 6KWh in battery.
***The goal of my post is to learn what do I need in my system to:***
What do I need to charge with an EV public charger (7.2kW)?
What do I need to charge with a car alternator?
What do I need to plug in a camping site?
What do I need to plug in a 120V AC house?
I keep the door open to go 12V or 48V!
I also have a question for my fellow Canadians who have solar panels installed horizontally on the roof of their vehicle!
I want to know how much cost effective it’s and what performance it give you during summer and winter in Canada?
If I choose to add solar to my build, it’ll probably be a commercial panel between 400W to 550W and 60 or 66 cells from what I know about solar for now.
Thanks!
Pat
Banish that thought.charge my setup with the EV public charger at 7.2kW
So a roof rack with ‘skirts’ around the perimeter pretty much eliminates that visual issue.About the fact of being stealth as possible, it’s more when it come time to sleep in town to avoid “the knock”!
At 2000W in a 12V mobile system 24- or 48V makes absolutely NO sense whatsoever. For one thing, the watt-hours you need are going to be essentially the same physical size regardless of voltageI keep the door open to go 12V or 48V!
…that is a major factor imhopersonally would stay with 12v as that is what the T4 runs already
A 120V refrigerator is available for so little money often enough and instantly available replacement is possible from podunk to poshtown that there is no reason to plan one’s life around expensive DC appliances or inconvenient electric coolers.only know of a handful of 48 volt DC refrigerators and other van DC items
Exactly. My QZRELB 2000W is only ~18W idle consumption, too2000W inverter is more than easily catered for at 12v
The reason being is that 7.2kW charge rate isn’t possible anyway.thats a bit more realistic ( but forget the EV charger altogether..)
I nicely written ‘technical paper” would probably benefit a lot of people imho.seriously considering on making a thread that goes over my vehicle's system. I've kept everything dirt cheap, had chosen very-basic DIY stuff and (prepare to be upset users) only use PWM controllers for their reliability
Right.What cables can safely carry 600A continuous to charge a battery for hours? 750MCM?
or start doubling up 4/0 welding cables?
Everything is temporary.It is after all only 'temporary'
Of course my battery will be inside the vehicle and at a good "normal" temperature!Unless the battery pack is inside with you, that limits your options
Do you let your house go under 0* celcius in winter?Don't laugh- I have seen many campers with their battery packs fitted externally under the floor (even factory made ones like that) and even on the roof in some cases... and what happens if you leave the camper with everything off and it gets down in temp???
It was only a rhetorical question!Last winter the minimum overnight temp was 15C, most nights I had the ceiling fan in the bedroom running all night...
The first year, I’ll have access to the AC from where I’ll do my build so I only need DC for led, diesel heater, water pump some computer fans… if I don’t miss anything and for that I can go with a Li Time 12V or 12.8V 100Ah and a fuse box and keep the cost around CAD 500$.Well you said you were looking at a 12v 100Ah system, while at the same time you said you wanted 5kwh of storage...
So I can't be bothered anymore trying to figure out what you meant- have fun with it all, I'm off
(as for the rest of your comments- no comment from me lol)