4 MPP LV6548 / 30 kW EVE 304ah LiFePO4 battery/ 14 kW PV array

[Zwy]

Nice, that looks so nice it makes the room walls pale in comparison.

 

[Zwy]

What are the 2 rotary switches on the right?

 

[raurre]

That is the PV disconnects. I have a few pictures of the way I made the enclosure a few post back.

 

[iamrich]

My solution for covering the MC4 input connections. I made the cover out of 16 gauge stainless. View attachment 83259

Right click, save image, reference later... :D

 

[tanderson22]

View attachment 75904View attachment 74854

Do you have recommended suppliers you went through?

 

[RV10flyer]

I do industrial electrical work for a living. I am sad to say I bring enclosures like this to the recycling yard on a regular basis. You would do well to check out your local scrap yard. You might be surprised.

The scrap yard was where a telephone company scrapped about 20’ of 1/4” x 2 1/2” tin plated copper bus bar. It’s going to work real nice for my 121 kWh DIY LFE bank.

 

[raurre]

Do you have recommended suppliers you went through?

I purchased the inverters from watts24/7 and the batteries from Shenzhen Basen Technology Co., Ltd. . It just so happens that I received my second order today from them. It is a second set that I am going to install for my buddy. He liked my system so we order his batteries in November and just got them today. I bought his two LV6548 earlier and have been waiting to start his install. As you can imagine he is ready to get started on his system. I will post some pictures of it when we get going on it.

 

[raurre]

Have you decided yet how to handle the MC4 connectors?

View attachment 77454

I never did like the way MPP has them coming directly out the bottom like that. I did buy a 6-ft wide trough to put under my LV6548s, and I'm gonna do conduit runs same like you.

However, I don't like the idea of using the MPP's MC4 connectors and having raw cable-runs run right into the bottom of the inverter, it just doesn't look as clean as the Sol-Ark installs for example (where all runs can be inside conduits).

Like I'd rather have all-conduit runs for cleanest, professional look (I'm an old car stereo installer guy from the 90's, I also like to do clean installs and rather go all the way, or none of the way, if I'm going to go through the trouble, it should look clean, and no raw cables hanging out).

I was thinking of either remounting the MC4s inside the box, having a single smaller diameter conduit going into the case, or removing the MC4 connectors altogether, and installing terminal blocks inside the MPP case.

Or just putting a big fat conduit that is large enough to go around all four of the MC4 connectors (not screwed on, just butted up flush against bottom of case). That would make it a lot more tricky to get the MC4 connectors apart later, working inside of a large conduit coming up from the bottom of the trough/box... Or making the fat conduit, slidable with some set screws, so it is more a cosmetic thing where you can loosen set screws on the bottom and slide it down to get the MC4 connectors apart if needed.

I am leaning towards just removing the MC4 connectors. Other idea is to soldier in longer pigtails inside the MPP case and extend the longer wires down to the trough/box below, and put PV terminal connection blocks down there where there is more room.

What did you have in mind? Or are you not going to worry about that and just connect your raw PV cable runs right to the factory connectors and not have conduit there?

Finally bent my covers. Check out my pictures see what you think. To paint or not to paint. That is the question.

 

[Samsonite801]

Finally bent my covers. Check out my pictures see what you think. To paint or not to paint. That is the question.

I think they look great just bare metal... Are those stainless or aluminum (hard for me to tell)... As long as they are one of those (won't get surface rust look later), then I wouldn't worry about painting them, bare metal has a nice look... You could even shine them up a bit with a little rubbing compound or Nevr Dull if you wanted even more bling hehe...

 

[raurre]

I think they look great just bare metal... Are those stainless or aluminum (hard for me to tell)... As long as they are one of those (won't get surface rust look later), then I wouldn't worry about painting them, bare metal has a nice look... You could even shine them up a bit with a little rubbing compound or Nevr Dull if you wanted even more bling hehe...

Stainless steel. If you look close someone may have been polishing some conduit and now they feel compelled to do them all.

 

[Samsonite801]

Stainless steel. If you look close someone may have been polishing some conduit and now they feel compelled to do them all.

Yeah, I was actually going to warn you about that before, like be careful about getting the Nevr Dull out, because once you get started then it makes all the other stuff look dull, and you just created yourself more work hehe

 

[WYtreasure]

Well, I'm a bit surprised. Has the inspector been by yet? I see a flaw, finally

 

[raurre]

I fret over that every day.

 

[AZ_HODL]

This is amazing. Thank you for sharing!

 

[raurre]

This is how I am thinking of configuring my panels. I have 32 in total. There will be 4 groups, two on the East side of my shop and two on the West side. This seems to be the best way I can figure out to get a longer input from the panels I have and the orientation of the roof. It is my understanding that it is easier for the panels to maintain voltage than to produce amperage. This seems to be best for my equipment but I am open to any suggestions from others who are using these panels.

 

[raurre]

This is amazing. Thank you for sharing!

I added a little more information on my drawing. Hope it helps.

 

[Samsonite801]

I added a little more information on my drawing. Hope it helps.

Is it a correct assumption that you are wiring 2s4p there?

Based on Voc and Isc of 85.6v and 6.43a (per panel), which would come up to 171.2v (2s) and 25.72a (4p), not calculating in coldest temperature compensation.

What I am not understanding (it's hard to see where exactly all your wires are drawn, so based on assumption of 2s4p), where are you getting the 144v and 12a from (for the left 4 panels and the right 4 panels?

The Voc should be fine there at 171.2v, but if the Isc will really be at 25.72a, we've heard MPP Solar Support say to another forum member that 18a is rated PV input amps, 22a is fine (to try best keep it under there), but for sure not to go over 25a (like as a hard limit)...

Tell me I'm I just reading this wrong... Maybe it's not a big deal, if you have a really long PV run, it may never hit that in real world?

 

[Samsonite801]

If the above I said is really the case, perhaps you could wire it all together (either mockup with the cable all coiled up, or for real all installed), and before you plug the wires into the LV6548, you can wait til full Sun, and short the PV run wires (for a few seconds) with an amp clamp on it to measure real world short-circuit current with the wiring involved... Just a thought.

 

[ChrisFullPower]

Panels don't push the current, the charger pulls it. The charger in the 6548 should only pull what its rated for and limit itself. In fact, a lot of times installations will oversize their array to get more output during less than ideal conditions.

 

[The Dish Doc]

Very nice looking build!