diy solar

diy solar

400A 160VDC T-Class Fuse Holder Melted

In the meantime, while waiting on the blue sea holder and a different fuse, I've modified my spare according to some recommendations here.
Removed the thin metal extension pieces, added a bolt to the top so plastic isn't in the compression path, and bolted my lugs directly to the fuse legs (tinned copper to tinned copper). I didn't have a lock nut of the correct size but I should get the new holder before thermal cycling loosens it. I torqued it together pretty tightly. I'm still throttling current on this setup.
View attachment 153511
Update: Monitoring heat at the fuse and connections with this setup for a few days now. Increased charge and discharge current up to 120A (around 6600W at charging voltage). No appreciable heat buildup, only slightly warm to the touch after a couple hours charging.
Did get my blue sea fuse holder but still waiting on a new fuse to fit the holder.
 
Update: Monitoring heat at the fuse and connections with this setup for a few days now. Increased charge and discharge current up to 120A (around 6600W at charging voltage). No appreciable heat buildup, only slightly warm to the touch after a couple hours charging.
Did get my blue sea fuse holder but still waiting on a new fuse to fit the holder.

Still running good?
 
Unbranded Amazon special. Came as a package of holder plus fuse.

Here's the link so others can avoid.

Class T Fuse Block Holder, 160VDC 400 Amp Fuse Holder Fits High Power Appliances in Inverters and Car Stereos Rvs Boats Cars Trucks https://a.co/d/7x9hoi0
The same day you left a review, some other person did too saying the same thing. It is currently unavailable. You probably saved some people's property and possibly lives. Good for you to leave that review!
 
Safety matters. I wouldn't want someone else to have their system go up in flames due to cheap components. I suspect that the seller started another product page using the same garbage.
 
Safety matters. I wouldn't want someone else to have their system go up in flames due to cheap components. I suspect that the seller started another product page using the same garbage.
I know. I am searching for a 300A DC breaker for my EG4 batteries to put between the battery and inverter and I can't find anything. Not an Ebay person and don't like to buy used, so finding an ABB or something is near impossible. I want quality.
 
I have a 400A t-class fuse, but it is the switch I can't find. I had a 200A one but SS just told me to use 300A.
The Blue Seas switches are top quality and handle 600 amps as I recall. But they are rated to 48 volts only and are not acceptable for a 48 volt system.
 
Last edited:
I know. I am searching for a 300A DC breaker for my EG4 batteries to put between the battery and inverter and I can't find anything. Not an Ebay person and don't like to buy used, so finding an ABB or something is near impossible. I want quality.
Amazon has 225,250,300 and 350 amp fast blow T class fuses. There’s also nothing wrong with South Bend brand fast fuses

Blue Sea Systems 5119 FUSE A3T (CLASS T) 300-AMP https://a.co/d/bLxXsSQ
 
I know. I am searching for a 300A DC breaker for my EG4 batteries to put between the battery and inverter and I can't find anything. Not an Ebay person and don't like to buy used, so finding an ABB or something is near impossible. I want quality.
You can get that from NOARK. Wolfautomation.com can give you a quote on any of their offerings. I have the 250A version M2 which has a 20,000 AIC at 500VDC which is better than even class T fuse and is rated for 6,000 switching operations with no damage even under full load. The M3 goes up to 400A.
 
I know. I am searching for a 300A DC breaker for my EG4 batteries to put between the battery and inverter and I can't find anything. Not an Ebay person and don't like to buy used, so finding an ABB or something is near impossible. I want quality.
Call me uneducated. If the EG4 battery has a circuit breaker on the battery, why add a fuse inline?
 
Extra security/safety.
Yeah.. just imagine your main battery connection from a stack of server rack batteries shorts out. All the breakers will have to trip on all the server rack batteries to basically protect that single cable.
 
The Blue Seas switches are top quality and handle 600 amps as I recall. But they are rated to 48 volts only and are not acceptable for a 48 volt system.
I know. Would not want anything under 60V
 
Amazon has 225,250,300 and 350 amp fast blow T class fuses. There’s also nothing wrong with South Bend brand fast fuses

Blue Sea Systems 5119 FUSE A3T (CLASS T) 300-AMP https://a.co/d/bLxXsSQ
I have a bluesea 400A Class T fuse/holder. Just searching for the DC breaker the manual calls for. I have a Growatt 12kw 120A 250VDC AIO
 
You can get that from NOARK. Wolfautomation.com can give you a quote on any of their offerings. I have the 250A version M2 which has a 20,000 AIC at 500VDC which is better than even class T fuse and is rated for 6,000 switching operations with no damage even under full load. The M3 goes up to 400A.
THANK YOU! I have been searching for ABB but I will go investigate that. I really appreciate the tip.
 
Yeah.. just imagine your main battery connection from a stack of server rack batteries shorts out. All the breakers will have to trip on all the server rack batteries to basically protect that single cable.
Thanks rhino and Lt. Dan.
 
THANK YOU! I have been searching for ABB but I will go investigate that. I really appreciate the tip.
I requested a quote for 300A and I will come back and let everyone know what they go for currently. Appreciate all your help!
 
I know. Would not want anything under 60V

I wouldn't feel bad using a 48V rated switch to isolate 60V, where the source is a battery, not something like grid that might carry kV transients.
I just wouldn't want to switch it under load. If inverter is shut off (or at least all AC loads disconnected), or fuse blown, then OK to open switch.

I have a strong suspicion that < 50V rating is because the part hasn't been UL tested for safety to keep little fingers away from higher voltages.
"Safe" voltage may have been revised upwards recently.




 
Blue sea makes nice stuff. Their breakers are pretty good, however as mentioned they are probably better kept under 48volts. The only time the contacts can get out of the arc quickly is when they trip. Making contact isn’t the issue, it’s breaking contact under load manually when the contacts move at the rate you twist the lever. The Dehool brand and the Watts247 rebadged version have a huge arc chute and whether it trips or manually changes state, it does it very quickly. So quickly that the resounding clank can wake the dead. The beaker can’t replace a fast blow T class fuse and quality holder. This beaker should be thought of as simply a good DC disconnect and the last measure SHTF event save.
IMG_0867.jpegIMG_0874.jpegIMG_0873.png
 
I requested a quote for 300A and I will come back and let everyone know what they go for currently. Appreciate all your help!
Just for reference my NOARK 250A M2 MCCB Lug version was $223 last year. They are pricey but believe they are one of the best/safest breakers you can get. Also note the "busbar" version is the one that allows you to use lugs on the end of your cables and bolt it down. The "lug" version of the breaker is one with the compression screw that you probably don't want. Other thing to to note is you have to think about how to mount it since only thing you can get for mounting from NOARK is a din rail plate. I used a heavy duty din rail and simply used the enclosed long screws that came with it and fastened it to din rail with nuts.
 

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top