Did that and got a reply from seller offering full refund. We'll see if they come through with that.Make sure you write a review and include your pictures.
Did that and got a reply from seller offering full refund. We'll see if they come through with that.Make sure you write a review and include your pictures.
I bought two of these. Funny enough they came with some wire connectors. First ones look like copper and were stamped 150A. Second ones look like cheap hobby wire connectors. I wasn't going to use either set as they weren't sufficient for my 4/0 wires, so I didn't think much of it. But it should've been a red flag to me.The first image in the Amazon page? Yeah, it is! But that's a drawing, not an actual photo I think.
Holy Moly….!I bought two of these. Funny enough they came with some wire connectors. First ones look like copper and were stamped 150A. Second ones look like cheap hobby wire connectors. I wasn't going to use either set as they weren't sufficient for my 4/0 wires, so I didn't think much of it. But it should've been a red flag to me.
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The top 2 rated at 150A would carry 150A. It takes the right crimper to do those. I looked for 3 years and finally someone linked the crimper on an industry forum. The crimper works great. Nothing wrong with those terminals, just need the right crimper.I bought two of these. Funny enough they came with some wire connectors. First ones look like copper and were stamped 150A. Second ones look like cheap hobby wire connectors. I wasn't going to use either set as they weren't sufficient for my 4/0 wires, so I didn't think much of it. But it should've been a red flag to me.
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Update: Monitoring heat at the fuse and connections with this setup for a few days now. Increased charge and discharge current up to 120A (around 6600W at charging voltage). No appreciable heat buildup, only slightly warm to the touch after a couple hours charging.In the meantime, while waiting on the blue sea holder and a different fuse, I've modified my spare according to some recommendations here.
Removed the thin metal extension pieces, added a bolt to the top so plastic isn't in the compression path, and bolted my lugs directly to the fuse legs (tinned copper to tinned copper). I didn't have a lock nut of the correct size but I should get the new holder before thermal cycling loosens it. I torqued it together pretty tightly. I'm still throttling current on this setup.
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Update: Monitoring heat at the fuse and connections with this setup for a few days now. Increased charge and discharge current up to 120A (around 6600W at charging voltage). No appreciable heat buildup, only slightly warm to the touch after a couple hours charging.
Did get my blue sea fuse holder but still waiting on a new fuse to fit the holder.
The same day you left a review, some other person did too saying the same thing. It is currently unavailable. You probably saved some people's property and possibly lives. Good for you to leave that review!Unbranded Amazon special. Came as a package of holder plus fuse.
Here's the link so others can avoid.
Class T Fuse Block Holder, 160VDC 400 Amp Fuse Holder Fits High Power Appliances in Inverters and Car Stereos Rvs Boats Cars Trucks https://a.co/d/7x9hoi0
The same day you left a review, some other person did too saying the same thing. It is currently unavailable. You probably saved some people's property and possibly lives. Good for you to leave that review!
Tells me the kind of person you are! Outstanding. Most people can't be bothered to help others! Good for you too!Heh, that was me. I couldn't let it go.
I know. I am searching for a 300A DC breaker for my EG4 batteries to put between the battery and inverter and I can't find anything. Not an Ebay person and don't like to buy used, so finding an ABB or something is near impossible. I want quality.Safety matters. I wouldn't want someone else to have their system go up in flames due to cheap components. I suspect that the seller started another product page using the same garbage.
I have a 400A t-class fuse, but it is the switch I can't find. I had a 200A one but SS just told me to use 300A.A switch and fuses are what many of us are using.
The Blue Seas switches are top quality and handle 600 amps as I recall. But they are rated to 48 volts only and are not acceptable for a 48 volt system.I have a 400A t-class fuse, but it is the switch I can't find. I had a 200A one but SS just told me to use 300A.
Amazon has 225,250,300 and 350 amp fast blow T class fuses. There’s also nothing wrong with South Bend brand fast fusesI know. I am searching for a 300A DC breaker for my EG4 batteries to put between the battery and inverter and I can't find anything. Not an Ebay person and don't like to buy used, so finding an ABB or something is near impossible. I want quality.
You can get that from NOARK. Wolfautomation.com can give you a quote on any of their offerings. I have the 250A version M2 which has a 20,000 AIC at 500VDC which is better than even class T fuse and is rated for 6,000 switching operations with no damage even under full load. The M3 goes up to 400A.I know. I am searching for a 300A DC breaker for my EG4 batteries to put between the battery and inverter and I can't find anything. Not an Ebay person and don't like to buy used, so finding an ABB or something is near impossible. I want quality.
Call me uneducated. If the EG4 battery has a circuit breaker on the battery, why add a fuse inline?I know. I am searching for a 300A DC breaker for my EG4 batteries to put between the battery and inverter and I can't find anything. Not an Ebay person and don't like to buy used, so finding an ABB or something is near impossible. I want quality.
Extra security/safety.Call me uneducated. If the EG4 battery has a circuit breaker on the battery, why add a fuse inline?
Yeah.. just imagine your main battery connection from a stack of server rack batteries shorts out. All the breakers will have to trip on all the server rack batteries to basically protect that single cable.Extra security/safety.