diy solar

diy solar

Can someone test the t class fuses? For littlefuse (blue sea) and south bend?

The one I use is NQCM1Z-160. The DZ47Z are din rail MCB style. and do not carry the same interrupt ratings.

What I mean by AC rated is if you look at the breaker it is marked for AC voltage and amperage. It does have going for it that it is UL listed.
So it was the first one I linked? I'm confused.. You said it wasn't the same as the SS (I assume SS = screen shot) that it was a din rail MCB not MCCB and now you say it is an MCCB? (NQCM1Z-160)

What's UL Listed, the MCCB? It is 10 times the price so I would hope it is much better lol
 
When I built my battery, I asked why people put the fuse/breaker before or after the BMS. Those that said before said it was to protect the BMS. Those that said after said it was to protect the wires.
 
cutting the circuit ideally protects them either way
Typically fuses are on positive lines though and the BMS seems to almost always be on negative
 
So it was the first one I linked? I'm confused.. You said it wasn't the same as the SS (I assume SS = screen shot) that it was a din rail MCB not MCCB and now you say it is an MCCB? (NQCM1Z-160)

What's UL Listed, the MCCB? It is 10 times the price so I would hope it is much better lol
SS is Signature Solar.
 
oh ok, yea I know that one's different. It's what the EG4 uses in their batteries and on inverters etc
I like the MCCB more..

I think @Hedges would agree too though that this is probably more trustworthy https://www.stellavolta.com/midnite-solar-mnepv125-80-1pnp-circuit-breaker-125a-80vdc/
and it's the same price lol
Good find. That at cursory glance would be just about ideal for my proposed battery combiner box. The NanQue breaker is too massive for that kind of usage.

Incidentally I am not endorsing any breaker as being better than another. My comments are simply to mention what I am using and why I choose it.
 
hilarious coincidence he's doing testing of them

meanwhile half the people in this thread:
oh no that 2 amp fuse shouldn't blow at 8 amps after several minutes!! the wires can still take more!! who cares what the number on the fuse is!

Good find. That at cursory glance would be just about ideal for my proposed battery combiner box. The NanQue breaker is too massive for that kind of usage.

Incidentally I am not endorsing any breaker as being better than another. My comments are simply to mention what I am using and why I choose it.
yea I got one of those nanque too, any breaker from any company can die at any time but the massive amount of testing is always reassuring.
 
That's why I try to avoid getting anything from Amazon, especially electrical stuff. They have Dihool breakers I was looking at and just can't bring myself to purchasing that as a main breaker for my system. It's basically turned into an American outlet of Aliexpress.
 
That's why I try to avoid getting anything from Amazon, especially electrical stuff. They have Dihool breakers I was looking at and just can't bring myself to purchasing that as a main breaker for my system. It's basically turned into an American outlet of Aliexpress.
every store is having this problem, like many stores, aliexpress is better than amazon, they'll actually remove fraudulent items if you report them.
amazon is pretty much the only one that doesn't
I don't trust the specs of these reputable fuses either, since time and time again we see them not actually doing what they say they do. Almost every genre of device that exists has this problem
 
I don't trust the specs of these reputable fuses either, since time and time again we see them not actually doing what they say they do. Almost every genre of device that exists has this problem

Do you have examples of them not doing what technical specs say they will do?
Or are you still hung up on the fact that a 100A fuse can carry significantly more than 100A for a significant length of time, and you think that is just wrong?

Fuses are probably more trustworthy than breakers. Breakers get stiff after a while, have higher trip current. You're supposed to periodically snap them off and on a few times to keep them loose. You do perform maintenance on your circuit breakers, don't you?
 
hilarious coincidence he's doing testing of them
...
I tried looking at this and it is poorly thought out and hard to follow. Even skipping ahead to each segment for a few seconds. For one thing his conclusion that generic rings terminals he bought on Amazon were no good, because he could pull out the wire after crimping, simply meant he made an inadequate crimp. You have to watch for this when you have a crimper set for a thicker constructed terminal versus a thinner one of a given wire size. The Metric to Standard dimensions is also an issue frequently encountered.

Put this way you crimp the darn thing until the wire does not pull free.

I would not follow this fellow for any valid results regarding fuses.
 
Metric to Standard dimensions is also an issue frequently encountered.
Yes. I have that issue. My favorite little “B” crimpers don’t always crimp amazone-sourced bare crimps because they are sometimes thin barrels, sometimes metric even if you searched for awg. This solves it for most ring terminals but of course is wrong for MC4, PL-259, various coax etc
Put this way you crimp the darn thing until the wire does not pull free.
I get so pissed off when I pull a wire out of a crimp which is why I have so many crimpers: one of them is going to make a nice shaped tight swage if I wind up with off-sized crap somehow, or if impatient I’ll just flip and crimp from the opposite side. Or if it is not a ‘fitting’ those Channelocks^^^ always make the smaller ones tight.
I would not follow this fellow for any valid results regarding fuses.
After reading this I didn’t bother watching.
There’s good stuff on the Y’Tube but there’s way more idiots trying to make a buck that neither know nor give a flying frog’s toenail
 
Last edited:
What caused the overload that blew your fuse?
 
I compared voltage drop of a cheap Amazon 300A ANL fuse vs South Bend 250A class T fuse (full size body not the mini blue sea). The fuses were bolted directly between very heavy buss bars, no fuse carrier. From memory it was 150-200 amp load and I measured a 2% voltage drop with the ANL fuse. Not surprising, it was thin and got stupid hot. (40W of heat is that even possible). The class T dropped about 1% and also got surprisingly hot.

For control I tested that same connection with no fuse, and there was zero voltage drop, cool to the touch. All the surfaces were prepared/flattened before the test.

So if your system is 12V, under heavy load often, the class T with heavy duty body may be worth it for that alone.
 
Last edited:
Do you have examples of them not doing what technical specs say they will do?
Or are you still hung up on the fact that a 100A fuse can carry significantly more than 100A for a significant length of time, and you think that is just wrong?

Fuses are probably more trustworthy than breakers. Breakers get stiff after a while, have higher trip current. You're supposed to periodically snap them off and on a few times to keep them loose. You do perform maintenance on your circuit breakers, don't you?
Project Farm has an entire channel on youtube with hundreds of millions of views total dedicated to manufacturers making stuff that don't meet what they say they do

no doubt fuses are more trustworthy than breakers, I agree there. But you're fighting a losing battle, almost every manufacturer lies somewhere.
Look at air bags, it took 50 years to realize whatever that one company that just got closed down knew they were killing people

I tried looking at this and it is poorly thought out and hard to follow. Even skipping ahead to each segment for a few seconds. For one thing his conclusion that generic rings terminals he bought on Amazon were no good, because he could pull out the wire after crimping, simply meant he made an inadequate crimp. You have to watch for this when you have a crimper set for a thicker constructed terminal versus a thinner one of a given wire size. The Metric to Standard dimensions is also an issue frequently encountered.

Put this way you crimp the darn thing until the wire does not pull free.

I would not follow this fellow for any valid results regarding fuses.
naw those terminals are indeed crap, can get them on aliexpress too. It's nearly impossible to make a crimp that actually holds the wire.
 
I agree some companies lie and some products are bad.
I think airbags are a bad deal, take about 1/3 as many lives as the number of (seatbelted) people they save, but required by congress. Seat belts much better.
The airbag inflater issue was criminal.

Do you have any example of Bussman, Littlefuse, other top tier name fuses failing to meet their specifications?

Given the documented spread of amperage and time, systems can be designed so they are protected by those fuses.
 
Back
Top