diy solar

diy solar

A few questions - switches, cable size, shore power, fuses...

So my transit won't charge without the key on. Is that ok with the solar trickle charger plugged in?

There are two customer connection points on the door side of the driver's seat base on "many" Ford Transits. Not all.

CCP1 is nearly always present and is an "always live" (+) connection to the starter battery through a fuse.

The (-) connection point for the van is to use one of the official Ford ground points that they designate. Don't use a random ground connection just because this worked 20 years ago. Also do not just connect the (-) to the Transit battery (-). Life is different now.

Your solar trickle charger can be connected to the CCP1 (+) terminal and to an official Ford Transit ground point. They are in the upfit diagram, but an example location is on the drivers side near the rear wheel well there is a specific spot with screws.

The CCP2 connection turns on / off roughly with the ignition on / off, but there are also some built in time delays and quirks.

The CCP1 connection stud is slightly smaller than the CCP2 stud. I am not 100% certain but I believe that the CCP1 stud is 6mm and the CCP2 is 8mm ( M8 x 1.25 ) IIRC.

If your solar trickle charger is connected to CCP1 the solar trickle charger should be able to keep it charged up. Chargers are triggered to activate if the battery voltage starts to drop below a set point voltage. If the starter battery voltage remains above the set point, they won't activate a charge.

If you are seeing current flow when the ignition is turned to "on", then it is possible that the power is going into running the van electronics during the start up cycle.

If you are building your own electrical system, then you will want to own a multi meter, ideally one that has a clamp meter with it.

Here is an example clamp meter similar to one that I own for this type of work:


This will work for many van situations for example 24 volt / 1 - 2 kW inverters.

If you are building a 12 volt system, then you will want a larger clamp for the bigger wires like this one:

 
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The cheaper one is similar to have 1 each 200 watt solar panel, the more expensive one is like having 2 of them.

Similar to solar panels, they tend to under perform their label so don't cheap out on this if you decide to buy one.

Either buy the better one - or delay completely until you are ready.

Hi @HarryN

Is there a 12v to 24v DC2DC that you like for the year model @Kayte has ?

What is popular for this application in the Transit Forum ?
 
Hi @HarryN

Is there a 12v to 24v DC2DC that you like for the year model @Kayte has ?

What is popular for this application in the Transit Forum ?

Most vans end up with a 120 vac charger. Either a dedicated one or part of an inverter / charger.

A popular solution is to put an inverter on the CCP2 terminal and feed it to the house battery charger.
 
Most vans end up with a 120 vac charger. Either a dedicated one or part of an inverter / charger.

A popular solution is to put an inverter on the CCP2 terminal and feed it to the house battery charger.
I will have to add another ccp as mine only has one if I decide to add B2B charging.
 
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