detroitmedic
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- Dec 3, 2021
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- 9
Time to bust out the dremel then
Battery(300) Design Open Sourced
- Thread starter sunrise
- Start date
It doesn't work like that with 3D printed material to cut out that much material on the shoulder, the outer layers are solid, maybe 3-8 layers thick, but depending on the setup, the internals will be infill, maybe printed at 20-30%, so you lose the strength.
Also, if i recall, the lid mounts are located were the shoulders are, you could cut them out, but then you have nothing to fix the lid to.
detroitmedic
New Member
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- Dec 3, 2021
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- 9
Oh okay, I thought you had 100% infill. Didn't know about the lid mounts either.
Yeah Sunrise has a bigger printer, I’m printing on a mk3s+, it was a tight fit to get my version to fit.
i Haven’t seen the other design, you got a link to it?
280ah Battery Top and Bottom Support Design.
I'm planning to build a couple 12v batteries using the 280ah cells. Every since seeing the Fortune batteries on a couple of Wills videos I have been thinking about making my own pieces on my 3d printer. This is my current design. I'm thinking of using Lego like features to allow a top cover...
diysolarforum.com
This is what mine looks like so far. I have the Same Prusa as yours. I don't see how his design would fit with my particular cells. Definilteley, his design is shorter in length since you don't have to have spacers like mine have.
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Just have to do supports for the top piece. Took me awhile to figure out the settings to make them easier to remove. Found some settings online that made it easier. In the mean time, I cut the heck out of my hand using a wood chisel when it slipped!
I like the design in this thread because it looks like it uses a lot less material and I like how the BMS is mounted. Mine will be mounted on the end so you will see the wires going to and from it which isn't as ideal.
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Not long to go then, until its finished printing, well less than when you started, 3D printing is so slow, looking forwards to seeing the finished unit
Sorry to hear about your hand, chisels do a lot of damage, Car trim removal tools would work well for parts removal, although this isn't going to help you at the moment.
My print just got delayed, the print fan gave up in the middle of a print, so i've got to wait until a new fan comes in, Prusa are sending a new one, but i'll also grab a spare locally and fit what ever turns up first and then i'll have a spare, but i guess it's an opportunity to fit the Revo i brought that i haven't gotten around to fitting while i wait for the fan.
Tell me more about the REVO...advantages?
Did you build your Prusa from a kit? I did...I would have to do a lot of review to take the extruder apart.
The only advantage for me, is repeatable cold nozzle changes, with no change in Z axis with different nozzle sizes
I get lazy and just end up using the .4 nozzle instead of using a better suited sized nozzle for the job, as its a pain to change.
I got mine already assembled from Prusa, as the waiting time was an extra 6 weeks for a kit, the hotend seems simple enough to install, although still a pain.
I was planning on installing it after printing the battery case, as the printer was dialled in and i didn't feel like pulling it apart
I get lazy and just end up using the .4 nozzle instead of using a better suited sized nozzle for the job, as its a pain to change.
I got mine already assembled from Prusa, as the waiting time was an extra 6 weeks for a kit, the hotend seems simple enough to install, although still a pain.
I was planning on installing it after printing the battery case, as the printer was dialled in and i didn't feel like pulling it apart
i will have to look into that. Figured for everything I do, the stock nozzle would be fine. Definitely, wouldn't want to have to do a live z-adjust for every time I changed the nozzle. Hard enough dialing it in for every one of my sheets.
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Hi @sunrise , encountered same issue as @jdfrye, terminals are 25.4 mm from stud center to edge. Here's my first attempt to narrow the stool and offset back 20mm. Realigned the screw holes on the lid to match. Widened the opening so the battery can slide in freely. Will print one section tonight to see if it fits. Still thinking about the top cover, whether to make some room under the lid for a small display, outlet, switch, or meter etc. Learning a lot from this project, thank you again for your work on this.
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jdfrye
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- Jan 17, 2022
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oooOOO!! yes! here's to hoping you like what you print.
sunrise
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- Jul 16, 2020
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- 206
Looks like you are making great progress. Wondering if you actually need to offset the stool all the way to one end? is it possible to make it 'thinner' + carve the base a little to make room for the stud base?
Our battery terminals are further apart, so I had to widen the opening quite a bit. The print on the left was the original design, you can see how much material I removed (with a pull saw) to get the battery to slide fully in. On the right is the modified version. At the time, I wasn't sure about obstructions due to tan and black rings around the terminal, but it seems there is just enough play in the case for those rings to slide under stool if necessary. I wanted to have extra clearance near the terminals, and don't think I have enough experience with Fusion to carve the base. Pushing the stool back was a lot easier than I thought. Will see if this can work as-is. I'll upload the STLs for @jdfrye if this works.
The middle print was a failed/cancelled print, but I'm thinking to attach it (or the larger hacksawed section) to one end of the case using longer threaded rod, to place the factory bluetooth module and maybe a panel for a battery meter. Since I need to split the top cover anyways, I'm thinking to elongate the second half, and maybe try to fit a panel mounted Anderson connector. I don't know, easier said than done, probably not worth the extra effort.
