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Battery doesn't seem to keep up after a few days

daveoflave

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Joined
Dec 1, 2023
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11
Location
Florida
Hi all,
I've set up a small system of a few panels, LiFEPo4 battery, charge controller and inverter (more details on the system below). It's meant to power my full sized refrigerator in my kitchen indefinitely (I live in a hurricane-heavy area in Florida; it's not to save money but rather for assurance that we'll always be ok with food regardless of the weather).
I power my fridge with this little solar system just fine for a few days. When it gets dark at night, battery starts draining, but doesn't get completely discharged, and starts charging in the morning faster than it's being consumed, so I can see it climb back up to about 100% by around noon. I check again at 5:30 PM or so (when it starts getting dark), battery is at 100% - awesome. After about the 3rd day or so, battery was at 100% at 5:30 PM, but by 11 PM that night - it's completely drained and I have to chagne the fridge back to the grid. Am I missing something in my setup? Am I just assuming the battery can handle this when it really can't?
The set up is this: 4 Ecoworthy panels at 200w, 10.83ah (max) apiece in parallel, connected over 30 ft of 8awg copper wire controlled by a Renogy 60A MPPT Rover Li charge controller connected to an Ecoworthy 12.8v 200ah LiFePo4 battery, and output to a Gearzaar 4000w 12v to 110v/120v AC inverter. Wiring from battery to charge controller and from battery to inverter is also 8awg.

I'm just confused - I'd understand if on that 3rd day (sometimes it's the 2nd, sometimes the 4th, its not consistent) the battery just wasn't at 100% (according to the charge controller, that is) when the sun goes down around 5:30 PM - but each of those days I check, it's always at max capacity at that time, but somehow just suddenly can't power the fridge through the night, and dies about 5-6 hours into the no-sunlight hours. It makes me worried the battery is damaged somehow, but maybe I just need to learn more. Would I benefit from adding batteries to make a small bank of them maybe? Should I trust the battery charge percentage I'm reading on the charge controller? Thanks in advance!
 
battery to inverter is also 8awg
Gearzaar 4000w 12v to 110v/120v AC inverter.
Hi Dave , is that inverter 4000w continuous or surge (2000w/4000w) ?



It looks like your inverter cables might be drastically undersized, awg8 (8mm²~) is rated for about 55amps


4,000w is a big inverter for 12v
4000w ÷ 12v = 333.33amps

For that you'd need 250mm² cable
 
Should I trust the battery charge percentage I'm reading on the charge controller?

No no almost certainly not, they can be very inaccurate


You could do with a proper shunt like the victron bmv/smart shunt or an ailiamp monitor
 
Hi Dave , is that inverter 4000w continuous or surge (2000w/4000w) ?



It looks like your inverter cables might be drastically undersized, awg8 (8mm²~) is rated for about 55amps


4,000w is a big inverter for 12v
4000w ÷ 12v = 333.33amps

For that you'd need 250mm² cable
Wow, ok thanks! I had no idea on that part. I think it's 2000w continuous, as per the specs they'd listed:
Specifications
  • Model: GEARZAAR-653
  • Continuous Power: 2000W
  • Peak Output Power: 4000W
  • DC Input Voltage: 12V DC
  • AC Output Voltage: 110V / 120V AC
  • Output Frequency: 60 Hz
  • Features: LCD Display
  • Plug Type: US Socket
  • Under-voltage Protection: 10V
  • Over-voltage Protection: 16V
  • Efficiency: 88%
  • No Load Current: 0.3A
  • Product Size (L x W x H): 288 x 166 x 120 mm/11.3 x 6.54 x 4.72''in
I bought it on ebay... I'd post the link here, but I think that might get mistaken for spam. :) It seemed like such a run-of-the-mill inverter, I didn't think it would need larger cables, but that could totally make sense.
 
Hi all,
I've set up a small system of a few panels, LiFEPo4 battery, charge controller and inverter (more details on the system below). It's meant to power my full sized refrigerator in my kitchen indefinitely (I live in a hurricane-heavy area in Florida; it's not to save money but rather for assurance that we'll always be ok with food regardless of the weather).
I power my fridge with this little solar system just fine for a few days. When it gets dark at night, battery starts draining, but doesn't get completely discharged, and starts charging in the morning faster than it's being consumed, so I can see it climb back up to about 100% by around noon. I check again at 5:30 PM or so (when it starts getting dark), battery is at 100% - awesome. After about the 3rd day or so, battery was at 100% at 5:30 PM, but by 11 PM that night - it's completely drained and I have to chagne the fridge back to the grid. Am I missing something in my setup? Am I just assuming the battery can handle this when it really can't?
The set up is this: 4 Ecoworthy panels at 200w, 10.83ah (max) apiece in parallel, connected over 30 ft of 8awg copper wire controlled by a Renogy 60A MPPT Rover Li charge controller connected to an Ecoworthy 12.8v 200ah LiFePo4 battery, and output to a Gearzaar 4000w 12v to 110v/120v AC inverter. Wiring from battery to charge controller and from battery to inverter is also 8awg.

I'm just confused - I'd understand if on that 3rd day (sometimes it's the 2nd, sometimes the 4th, its not consistent) the battery just wasn't at 100% (according to the charge controller, that is) when the sun goes down around 5:30 PM - but each of those days I check, it's always at max capacity at that time, but somehow just suddenly can't power the fridge through the night, and dies about 5-6 hours into the no-sunlight hours. It makes me worried the battery is damaged somehow, but maybe I just need to learn more. Would I benefit from adding batteries to make a small bank of them maybe? Should I trust the battery charge percentage I'm reading on the charge controller? Thanks in advance!
Seems to me you may do better in a 2s2p or all series mode with an mppt controller? Better voltage to run the mppt controller.
 
Typical residential refrigerator draws 17 amps from the battery bank when it cycles. A 440 aH lead acid battery has bank lasts 16 hours and takes 8 hours to recharge at 60 amps. This is based on measurements I made dry camping in 2016. I suspect your right on the edge with your 200 aH battery even though its lithium. Winter time sun here in the sunshine is also marginal. Increase your solar and battery bank size. Also connect the inverter with 2/0 wire.
 
Wow, ok thanks! I had no idea on that part. I think it's 2000w continuous, as per the specs they'd listed:
Specifications
  • Model: GEARZAAR-653
  • Continuous Power: 2000W
  • Peak Output Power: 4000W
  • DC Input Voltage: 12V DC
  • AC Output Voltage: 110V / 120V AC
  • Output Frequency: 60 Hz
  • Features: LCD Display
  • Plug Type: US Socket
  • Under-voltage Protection: 10V
  • Over-voltage Protection: 16V
  • Efficiency: 88%
  • No Load Current: 0.3A
  • Product Size (L x W x H): 288 x 166 x 120 mm/11.3 x 6.54 x 4.72''in
I bought it on ebay... I'd post the link here, but I think that might get mistaken for spam. :) It seemed like such a run-of-the-mill inverter, I didn't think it would need larger cables, but that could totally make sense.

Ah ok 2000w is a lot easier to deal with ? @scrubjaysnest is right you need awg 2/0 cables ,

You also need to install the correct fuses !
 
you'd need 250mm
Not so, the typical power is 2000 watts, suggest 75mm2.

Renogy 60A MPPT Rover Li charge controller
Not ideal charge on lithium default settings.

Should I trust the battery charge percentage I'm reading on the charge controller?
No, thay are totally incorrect.

I will absolutely invest in one
The Victron Smart Shunt is much more accurate, better engineered, and keeps a 30 day record of charging state.

The battery cells may be inbalanced , stoping charge before the battery is full. You need the battery to reach over 13.8 volts and hold that volts for an hour. Go to user settings in the Renogy controller and setup the following,

Equilisation voltage = Boost volts = 14.2 volts
Float volts 13.6 volts
Equilisation duration 0
Boost duration 60 minutes

The calibration of Renogy controllers is variable, so if possible check the output is reaching the 14.2 volt target at the end of the day

As already discussed the state of charge reading can be ignored.
You don't need temperature so ensure the temperature sensor is disconnected.

Fit the battery monitor shunt as shown in the example circuit,
Screenshot_20230905-200359_Chrome~2.jpg
 
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Ah ok 2000w is a lot easier to deal with ? @scrubjaysnest is right you need awg 2/0 cables ,

You also need to install the correct fuses !
Ok one more question then for @SamG340 and @scrubjaysnest - do I need 2 guage everywhere? I notice you mentioned "connect your inverter with 2/0 wire," so do we just mean from the battery to that? do I need to get bigger wire from the battery to charge controller, or from the panels to the controller, etc?
 
Not so, the typical power is 2000 watts, suggest 75mm2.


Not ideal charge on lithium default settings.


No, thay are totally incorrect.


The Victron Smart Shunt is much more accurate, better engineered, and keeps a 30 day record of charging state.
Thank you, I definitely need to invest in one of these Victron Smart Shunts - I'd never heard of them until asking here!
 
Ok one more question then for @SamG340 and @scrubjaysnest - do I need 2 guage everywhere? I notice you mentioned "connect your inverter with 2/0 wire," so do we just mean from the battery to that? do I need to get bigger wire from the battery to charge controller, or from the panels to the controller, etc?

Yes exactly, 0/2 all the way from battery to inverter

Everything else inc. your MPPT seems to be on the correct size cable already!
 
First things first, I run a 21cuft fridge freezer in my garage strictly on solar. I have 600W of panels feeding my lifepo4s and a 2kw inverter. The fridge averages 700 to 800 Wh daily in winter and 1.2 to 1.4 KWh in summer. While is an initial brief surge, it runs at about 110 watts when compressor is running. I figure on about 4 days of run time with no charging from my 400ah Batts, so the OP should get about half that. If he went from 100% to dead in 5 and half hours, something is very wrong.
Seems to me you may do better in a 2s2p or all series mode with an mppt controller? Better voltage to run the mppt controller.
I concur completely. Also bump up the inverter cables, but I don't understand why everybody wants to see it wired for max inverter output. I run 4ga from my Batts to inverter, and it does just fine, even when the wife plugs in her hair iron or the vacuum cleaner.
 
but I don't understand why everybody wants to see it wired for max inverter output. I run 4ga from my Batts to inverter, and it does just fine, even when the wife plugs in her hair iron or the vacuum cleaner.

Safety first ?
 
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